Kelly Cestari - Looking Through A Window Pushing A Button

Puerto Rico come and Gone

2010-11-10T16:56:00.000-08:00

KS10

KSsearch

Puerto Rico has come and gone. I sit in the San Juan airport reflecting on what was Puerto Rico for me. The ASP World Tour has been handing out World Titles for 30 years and over half of them were involved at this event. 4 X Stephanie Gilmore. 10 X Kelly Slater. 3 X Andy Irons. Total - 17.

In 1992 Kelly Slater claimed his first World Title in a year I was migrating from Primary to High School. Bordering on my teenage years and raw to teasing I filled in my application form and stated I wanted to be called by my middle name, Nicholas. By 1993 Slater had made my name more acceptable and I liked it. He was my hero, he made my name cool and well he surfed like a World Champ. Seventeen years ago I would never have fathomed the thought that one of my photographs would be the first the world see of Slater being chaired up the beach as a 10 X World Champ.

Stephanie Gilmore joined the ASP World Tour four years ago and taken the title each year since. How many more she will claim is up to her.

Andy Irons claimed three World Titles in '02 - '03 - '04. He passed away on 2 November 2010. He is the only surfer to have ever presented a real challenge to Kelly Slater.

Am I happy to leave Puerto Rico? I am sad to say yes. Its beauty is tainted for me.
I have shed many tears for many reasons. I smile as I turn my back and head to Hawaii.

Our event photos can be seen on the ASP website.

Silverware

Rest in Peace Andy Irons

2010-11-03T12:36:00.000-07:00

RIP - AI

He walked up to the window leant down, looked in and said "Hi, I'm Andy Irons". That was 2007 and I was driving to Mundaka. Since then I've had the pleasure of witnessing his brilliance on the ASP World Tour. I never got to see him in his peak, but the Andy flair was there. He stepped off in 2009 for a break and 2010 saw him making a comeback with his first win in three years at Tahiti. The wave where he stands shoulders above the rest.

Yesterday given the chilling news that Andy Irons had passed away stirred up emotions making my moms passing away so very fresh once again. That was 14 August, the day my world came crashing down. Yesterday, 2 November and it feels the same all over again. I cannot call Andy a friend, I don't have that pleasure but I am certain had I made the effort or attempt to befriend more than photographing him on the World Tour we would have perhaps enjoyed a cup of tea and exchanged more than the few words we did. The times at Jeffreys Bay paddling past asking what if his wave was any good or what the score was, each time frozen in awe. He was only two years older than myself yet being in his presence you felt the aura of a hundred year old legend.

A memorial paddle out was held to show the respect and honor of one of the greatest competitors to grace professional surfing. Rest in Peace Andy Irons.

The ASP World Tour photo tribute can be viewed here.

Caribbean - update 1

2010-10-22T07:43:00.000-07:00

Jesiah's Bay

Beauty in Devastation

My Euro Trip came to an end and decided to come over to Tortola, one of the British Virgin Islands in the Caribbean.

Yesterday we explored the island while driving to Jesiah's Bay. The mountain face here is hectic, there is no simply driving around the mountain as that would take a full day so what they have done is cut roads up the almost vertical cliff faces. The road zigzags right then left then right and you get to the top and all you see is open air until gravity pulls the car down and you go "oh shit I hope the brakes work". The bends have our car screeching as it is a little automatic jeep that drops gears very late and suddenly a burst of power comes through the wheels. A few weeks back the island, was hit by Hurrican Hugo so the roads are either breaking up, littered with debris or fallen away. Cars with wheels missing and broken windows, some still buried in mud are not an uncommon sight. The cleanup process seems to be getting underway but with so much damage the important things are taken care of first so you have to wonder when the little things like roads with branches and mud, fallen fences and long grass will be taken care of.

Jesiahs Bay used to be very popular. Well it still is if you want to drive to where the road used to be park on the side next to the trees and bushes, walk to the now newly formed swamp then to the old bar and jump over its fence. All that and you are onto a beautiful little bay. According to the lifeguards it gets really good waves. Looking out to sea to the left of the bay is a backdrop of rocks and trees and bush, it would be an amazing backdrop for a surfing photo if only the left that breaks there were actually surf able. There were small, about 1 foot waves, that broke next to the shore that looked like they have potential for an unbelievable wave but the guy said its too fast and breaks in really shallow waters. Every now and then a really good looking wave came through having me staring at it mind surfing wishing it was 4 feet bigger. But then I wouldn’t have had my board and I would have done my nut. So mind surfing I did and thinking of what an amazing photo it would be. To the right is a point which you can walk out onto and if adventurous like the two lifeguards were, get on a knee board and paddle to the other two beach enclaves. I’m struggling to decide if the intensity of color and clarity either matches that of Hawaii or betters it. Flying in it surpassed Hawaii, it really was something from the holiday brochures but on land you don’t see that and only have entering the water to compare. I haven't been snorkeling yet but there appears to be a tiny reef just offshore from our hotel. Once I have found a diving mask to purchase I will venture out there on one of my morning swims or a lazy day activity.

All days are lazy though.

Results of Hugos efforts

If only it were 4ft bigger

Portugal - update 5

2010-10-17T13:39:00.000-07:00

Portugal - update 5

Today went to visit the Pena Palace in the town of Sintra. In todays day and age it is almost impossible to make a photo inside an historic tourist attraction without capturing multiple people in the photograph too. It is all quite irritating. Pena Palace itself was quite interesting. I could have spent hours walking through the various rooms dedicated to Kings and Queens of past but the snaking crowd puts pressure on you to move along. That and lack of being allowed to take photos inside shortened my stay. By the size of the ancient beds on display the old Kings and Queens of Portugal must have been dwarfs. I at 5'11 would not be able to fit in any of them.

Then it was to the town of Sintra. A very commercialized tourist destination where I satisfied my need to taste the local Sardines. That need is now over. Portugal is supposedly famous for its Peri Peri Chicken, I am yet to see a single food establishment offering the dish. I am highly disappointed.

Portugal - update 4

2010-10-17T13:32:00.000-07:00

Portugal - update 4

Took a stroll around the side streets of Peniche. I enjoy quaint little towns. The cobble stone streets deliver wishes of time travel and yearning for peaceful times. Peniche was never built for modern days and thus you will see a lot of washing hanging from windows and walls. You could create a gallery solely of interesting door photos. Some so old they would fall off their hinges if creaked open. Some so new the contrast against old is painful. And some made interesting by their owners selection of door knob.

It's not butterfly season and a big one came flying straight past me. Love you mom.

Portugal - update 3

2010-10-17T13:16:00.000-07:00

Portugal - update 3

Kelly Slater won the 2010 Rip Curl Pro Portugal/Peniche. In doing so adds his first win in Portugal to the book of accomplishments. Jordy Smith took second in the final. The contest is over now and I have till Oct 19 to do nothing in Peniche.

For my personal run down of the event you can read the blog on theBOMBsurf website.

Portugal - update 2

2010-10-13T04:00:00.001-07:00

Portugal - update 2

I've been in Peniche/Portugal for over a week now and while I do have internet connectivity in land of the Sardine I have been slack. It happens when working. Since arriving in Peniche the womens part of the event has come and gone. Carissa Moore defeated Steph Gilmore at Lagide and now we are into Round 4 of the mens. We have run at Supertubos and Belgas. In all likely hood we will finish tomorrow back at Supertubos.

Sardines are not my first choice of fish and thus haven't sampled the staple local diet. I have however eaten octopus and whole squid but I did go for the "cleaned" option versus the "natural" option. The difference? Going natural would involve cooking the squid with its entrails still intact.

A 50 year storm was meant to strike last week. While the exaggerated 20ft waves failed to appear the gale force winds and horizontal rain made their presence very much known. Working in rain is never fun and now we have sunshine and I got burnt yesterday. Remember to pack suncream.

Portugal - update 1

2010-10-06T16:01:00.001-07:00

Portugal - update 1

Yesterday we arrived in Portugal for the Rip Curl Pro in Peniche. It is my second visit to the Sardine town of Portugal. It smelt bad upon arrival but you soon become accustomed. First objective is to fine a laundromat and wash my jean pant which should by now be able to walk themselves to the washer.

The drive down was pleasant. Hundreds of kilometers that are a pleasure to drive especially when in a car where cruising at 170kph, sometimes 180kph, feels like the new 120kph. There are still some crazies who come sit on your bumper virtually pushing you out the way. Along the way we stopped for coffee and two men, apologies for the generalisation, from Azbhekistan tried to sell us fake iPhones. My interest was peaked when he showed off the box mentioned 200 euros, he communicated the price by spitting on his finger and writing on my dashboard, until I grabbed it out his hand and saw it was nothing but an mp3 Japanese rip off.

First night in Peniche and I ate octopus. The prices here are very welcome after nearly two weeks in France. 10 Euros for my dinner and 5 Euros for a litre of red wine.

Mundaka

2010-10-06T12:21:00.000-07:00

Mundakako

Tall tales of swells calling Mundaka to be all time circulated as the 20 year storm bore down on Hossegor. On Sunday the decision to make the drive down to the Basque region and spend a night in one of my favorite little towns was made. That decision was very nearly put to rest by Mother Nature. I woke up with winds strong enough to topple pine trees and send economy sized garbage bins wheeling across the road. We were warned not to venture forth from the safe confines of our hotel rooms. We were told "get down here immediately". Mother Nature took a lunch break and hit the road. It was the fastest I had ever repacked my suitcases.

We arrived and it was the biggest Mundaka I had ever seen and this was my fourth year visiting the town. It was big but it too was lumpy. That didn't stop the numerous surfers, average joes the pros, locals and foreigners from having fun. One brave soul drifted with the rip out to the proper take off spot, took one wave and had all those lining the shore cheering. Instant celebrity.

Tuesday morning was a hoax. The swell had dropped over night sufficiently to turn the wave into an inconsistent fickle 3ft on low-tide. The norm for Mundaka.

I strolled the streets hipstamatic in hand just as I had done the previous night. Mundaka holds a special place in my heart and sours my feelings to see modern day developments taking hold of the small cobble stone streets. A beer, insalada mixta and cafe con leita con baileys at the casino. A beer at Bar Txopos. Hugs from Giuseppie. Photos of the town without contest paraphernalia and it was time for the drive down to Portugal.

It was a short visit. A visit that made me smile. Like old places and familiar faces I will return.

France - update 4

2010-10-06T12:11:00.001-07:00

France - update 4

The final of the French updates. Mick beat Slater in the final in some "pro-only" conditions. Mortal behavior would prevent average surfer joe from paddling that. That and the lack of a jetski. As after parties go people get drunk and injuries occur, I was the wildcard injury for the night. After a fantastic hot-rock, aka Le Boef, we took the few short steps across to Cafe Paris. My bladder felt it was time to evict the few beers I had consumed and so off I went for a pee. All was fine until the last step of the stairwell on my way back to have another beer. Shiny wooden floors with a mix of beer, sweat and urine do not make for a surface with the most traction. Slip goes the foot, ass and elbow on the floor. A dent in the pride is only saved by a thumbs up to the acknowledging crowd along with a split elbow. It was a big cut but it was split to the bone, enough to drip blood on my favorite shoes.

After heading back to the hotel to rinse and wash the wound a soldering on approach was adapted. Rock Food was full and charging at the door and Dicks Tavern was a sweat pit enough to convince me my night was over. 20 minute walk back to the hotel for an uncomfortable night of sleep trying not to bump the egg my elbow had turned into.

Contest is over and a sleep in will be had.

France - update 3

2010-10-01T00:35:00.000-07:00

All good things French

Bonjeur from France again. From Monday to Thursday afternoon I have been lazing about drinking Cafe Au Lait, eating Sucre and Lemoen Crepes and the odd Croissant. I love France but some of these natives are rude. Say "no no no no" with a nasal twang while wagging your right index finger. Or just look into the mirror with the rudest death stare and that will be your 'Blue French'.

Hossegor is only a surf town. You can do shopping but mostly surf stores with the odd trinket shop.

You can read my contest blog on theBombsurf.

France - update 2

2010-09-28T02:21:00.000-07:00

All good things French

A week into France and I've seen Round 1 of the Quiksilver Pro France completed and the first three heats of Round 2 finish. I've watched Freestyle MotoX in Hossegor Square, I've saved a child from a stampede. I've gone two days without tea and drank coffee while eating Sucre Au Lemoen Crepes. I spent Euros and not cared while drinking beer from Bali.

I am making proper blog entries about the contest on theBOMBsurf website. Be sure to give it a visit.

France - update 1

2010-09-25T03:00:00.001-07:00

All the good things it takes to get here

My passport received its last international stamp when I departed Australia in March. Many things have happened since that ink hit the paper. I've experienced many personal trials and tribulations in the six months since then so it was both happiness and sadness when I departed home shores on Wednesday afternoon for France. It took one and a half days to get that fresh stamp in the passport. A one hour flight from Durban to JHB, a 6 hour layover in JHB, a 10 hour flight from JHB to London, another 6 hour layover which included a 1 hour bus journey from Heathrow to Gatwick, a 2 hour flight from Gatwick to Bordeaux, a 2 hour wait for my colleague to arrive thanks to the strikes by Air France staff and a 1.5 hour drive from Bordeaux to Hossegor.

Never has a shower felt so good. Being clean felt so fine that I nearly took another shower.

Hipstamatic Clayton

2010-09-22T01:04:00.000-07:00

Hipstamatic Clayton

The hipstamatic session is viewable in slideshow on theBOMBsurf website.

With permission I took a stroll around the Clayton Surfboards factory after promises of zero secrets revealed.

Today I am off to France.

Brothers Wedding

2010-09-21T08:43:00.001-07:00

Flowers - Check

My brother Calvin got married on 18 Sept 2010 to Heidi. I can only describe the day as magical, who gets married in the bush with Rhinos, Giraffes and Oxen as extra guests. The morning started off overcast with the wind picking up as the clock ticked on. After getting ready and driving to the ceremony the skies were peppered by spots of rain. Soft enough to cause concern yet light enough to hold hope. As guests gathered in the open veld sitting on hay-bails it really started to rain and the wind intensified. I could only close my eyes talk to mom and the powers that be and ask for some intervention. The rain stopped and the wind subsided but came back and my beliefs began to fail. I will forever hold onto my faith for what happened after that. Heidi and her Bridesmaids arrived in an Ox-wagon pulled by six very well behaved bulls. The rain stopped, the wind departed and the Rhinos arrived. At times the large male and female were within 20 meters of the guests. The Pastor noted that if they get any closer he is first up the tree under which we were standing. As the vows were recited the clouds parted and a brilliant golden light emanated with a perfect beam shining right down the middle of the isle encasing Calvin and Heidi in a beautiful halo. I smiled, closed my eyes and thanked mom. She was with us, there was never any doubt about that.

At a wedding a lot of concentration is placed on the bride and this is fair as it is usually the girls childhood dream day. But why forget the groom? As my wedding gift I photographed my brother getting ready for his big day.

The smile that says "I do"

All suited up -lets get married

Schotia Safaris

2010-09-20T12:30:00.001-07:00

White Rhino

King of the Jungle

The past weekend was my brothers wedding. It was a magical day which took place on a game farm owned by his wifes parents, Schotia. We were treated to numerous sightings while driving around doing this and that. Being a photographer my camera went almost everywhere and now I feel like joining the wildlife photographers club.

Wildebeest

Giraffe

Hipstamatic Hutchinson

2010-09-16T02:10:00.001-07:00

Hipstamatic Jono Hutchinson

A few weeks back I took a stroll through the garden of Jono Hutchinson while with theBOMBsurf guys who were shooting an ad photo.

The slideshow can be seen on their website.

Cover : theBOMBsurf Issue 8

2010-09-15T04:29:00.001-07:00

theBOMBsurf Spring 2010 cover

As the release of the Spring 2010 issue of theBOMBsurf, the last issue for 2010, came within sight I started to become a little ansey as I hadn't claimed a cover of the magazine the whole year. I was getting worried I would not have my name printed on at least one of their landscape format issues and thanks to Sean Holmes and the South Coast a few months back I get the final cover of the year.

Thanks Sean, thanks John, thanks Iain. Now to plot the next . . .

A hit of Hipstamatic

2010-09-13T14:56:00.000-07:00

Hipstamatic yes I am

It has been a while since I set out armed with the trusty Hipstamatic iPhone app and a purpose. It was fun.

No light? Go Black & White!

2010-09-09T05:14:00.001-07:00

The Mound showing what it is capable of

Many alarm clocks were set to crow before the rooster on the morning of Tuesday, 7 September 2010. The days preceding had been wind swept with not a vast amount of surfing taking place. Afternoon sessions the day before took place in 2 foot mush thus with favorable gifts from the ocean looking set for the morning many a surfer kissed their loved ones on the cheek, cashed in their morning pass and tucked themselves into bed as if it were a school night. The Quiksilver Goodwave, an event with a one year waiting period, had been placed on alert only to have that power disconnected by the municipal powers that be because the shark nets had still not been placed back in the water after a history setting sardine run.

And so the early birds arrived in their numbers but it was only the motorised early birds that ate. A combination of high tide and big surf had washed sand up onto the World Cup promenade but not with enough veracity as to put the Wimpy staff in any danger. The swell had arrived but it was not clean. It was not friendly. It was not for those who only had their arms. A jump off the New Pier if poorly timed saw you washed into the Far Bowl in five minutes. I witnessed a crazied water photographer attempt this, what he was hoping to photograph I'm not quite sure. The shark pod attached to ankle was overkill.

Three tow teams were in the water, one being Twiggy and Ryan Butcher. Everyone had their fill. One team hit the throttle out to The Mound. They looked like lint particles. The Mound didn't produce enough of a thrill to keep them there but the mind surfing was monumental.

A slideshow is viewable on theBOMBsurf website.

The ocean is their stadium

Flowers for Mom

2010-08-30T05:49:00.000-07:00

Flowers to smile about

My mom loved flowers and most likely still does, since her passing we have amassed a vast amount of beautiful flowers.

Love you mom.

Love you mom

2010-08-22T10:33:00.001-07:00

For Mom

My mom passed away last week Saturday, 14 August 2010. No words can describe the emotions, it is not a feeling I wish upon my worst enemy. We all die some day, but we are meant to grow old and die. We are not meant to be taken before our time, but when is our time? Who decides that? I have my beliefs and part of those is that mom is now everywhere keeping a beady eye on us, her friends her family.

Yesterday I paid my personal tributes to mom. With a single rose I paddled out into the ocean, my sanctuary, said a few words thought a few thoughts and threw the rose to waters free to roam as mom now is. Later in the day I went for another tattoo, never in my life did I think I would be getting a tattoo in honor of my mom. I am proud to wear the memory of my mom in my skin.

The Photo from that letter

2010-08-10T05:13:00.000-07:00

First ever published surf photo

Two posts ago I related the story behind the letter. Today I show you the photo. Above is the first surf photo I ever had published. It is actually the first photo of any kind I ever had published. My friend Darryn Mountford in the barrel, a tiny barrel, at East London's Bonza Bay Beach. The wind was a stiff NW Burg which kept us warm in the icy water.

The magazine was ZigZag Vol 22/3 May/June 1998 on page 14. When a certain day of the year becomes fateful for some catastrophic reason be it human action induced or Mother Nature response the statisticians play around with numbers and coerce them into meaning something. This particular issue the cover featured a photo sequence shot from the water at Pipeline Hawaii, my favorite place in the world since I live there for three months of the year. The photographer credited with the photo is my part-time boss and friend Pierre Tostee. I am of the belief the photo credits were mixed up as I have never been recounted stories from the boss about water shooting in Hawaii, and I too have been miscredited on numerous occasions. Sometimes to my credit sometimes not.

Flipping through the pages you see faces of current and gone, surfers I love photographing, places I love visiting and some now good friends.

Time is a strange thing, without it you wouldn't need a watch.

The frame I thought was better

Mandatory friend photo

(L-R) Me, Darryn and the Beach Buggy

R500 and finely ground pepper

2010-08-08T04:22:00.001-07:00

Brad + R500 + Pepper

It started with "Brad I dare you to sniff this pepper". I think that stemmed from the round of Tequila they all just threw back and some story about sniffing Tequila. Then Bruce threw in R100 (One Hundred South African Rands). I would have said no to a paultry R100 too but the ante was upped with a "Who else is putting in?". Before he knew it R500 was sitting in front of him. To put the money in his pocket he had to put the pepper in his nose. To say we pick on Brad is a bit harsh, we choose him because he is a sucker for peer pressure and very rarely backs down which is a result of said peer pressure.

Brad, it's love.

Where it all started

2010-08-05T13:44:00.000-07:00

The letter that started it all

You'd be amazed what treasures the bottom draw holds. Today while sifting through a pile of paperwork for some all important tax return documents I found this, the letter that started it all.

In 1997 a good friend, Darryn Mountford, and I purchased a waterproof disposable camera. During the school holidays we set about surfing and shooting and now that I think about it I never used swim fins. Crazy but true. It was a "disposable" camera but being the MacGuyver kid/person I was/am I proceeded to ignore instructions dictating the camera should be returned to the store in its whole. I pried it open, wound the film back into the canister and off we went for developing. I remember the day, we finished the roll and went off to Vincent Park mall in East London. While waiting for the one hour developing and printing we had a lunch at Wimpy. I also clearly remember the disappointment when looking through the photos. What at the time seemed like a perfect barrel shot was in fact off centre and soft. With the developing and printing came a free roll of film which found its way back into the "disposable" camera thanks to my early understanding and makeshift darkroom inside my bedroom cupboard at night with all the lights turned off and strict instructions to all in the house that access to my room was forbidden.

There were one or two acceptable photos, when you are 17 finishing school and never seen a photo of yourself surfing, the most average of photos makes you smile and cringe. Smile because you finally have a photo, cringe because you realise how kooky you look.

The few acceptable ones, which I now understand go straight to the editors bin, were shipped off to ZigZag Surfing Magazine. There was no scanning of negatives, there was no scanning of photographs and there was definitely no email with the subject "check these shots". For months as soon as the newest edition hit the shelves I was flipping through the pages. At times I was phoning the surf stores to see if they had sneak peek editions. When told no the next phone call was to CNA because CNA had everything. I'd given up hope. I'd finished school and moved back to Durban. I thought I was never going to see those photos again. I hadn't even touched the "disposable" as I didn't have a friend to surf and shoot with anymore then one day an envelope arrives in the mail. It was from then editor, Jeremy Saville. The next issue I had my first ever surf photograph published.

I can't find the photo at the moment but I know I have the negative somewhere in my box of negatives. That was 1997 and now 2010 I am an ASP World Tour photographer. I've swum my home waters of Durban shooting New Pier, North Beach, Cave Rock the South Coast. I've balanced in a rubber duck shooting a semi-secret reef 5kms out to sea, I've bobbed in a boat shooting South Africas best big wave surfers at South Africas premier big wave break - Dungeons. I've swum Hawaii's Sunset, Off The Wall, Backdoor. I've swum out at Pipeline to "enjoy the scenery" on days I've just not wanted to shoot. Here I am 13 years after that first roll of film all high-tech using 10 frame per second digital cameras and recording high definition video with a camera the size of a matchbox. Here I am 13 years down the line having heard Confucius.

Find a job you enjoy, and you'll never work a day in your life

Hipstamatic Jeffreys Bay

2010-08-03T09:09:00.000-07:00

Hipstamatic JBay

Whilst my visit to Jeffreys Bay for the Billabong Pro was cut short I did put my unhealthy Hipstamatic iPhone application addiction to good use.

A slideshow is currently featured on theBOMBsurf Magazine website.

Surfers Against Nuclear

2010-08-02T06:16:00.001-07:00

Surfers Against Nuclear T

The absurd idea of a Nuclear Plant at Thuyspunt, too close to Supertubes for anyones liking - that's not saying anyone even endorses the idea of nuclear plant apart from E(ish)KOM, has brought about great opposition.

A t-shirt has been created in support of this opposition and one of my photos of Casey Grant has been silhouetted for the graphic.

Support the Supertubes Foundation in their quest to expel this mindless thought.

Feeling nostalgic

2010-07-29T12:47:00.001-07:00

Sean Holmes post Billabong Pro R2 heat win

Today far away from any surf competition I feel a little nostalgic. Up till the beginning of July I'd been "unemployed" if you wish. The Mr Price Pro was my first event I'd worked in 3.5 months. From there I headed down to Jeffreys Bay for the Billabong Pro where I was forced to bail the event mid Round 2 for a family emergency. Family comes first! Down in Cape Town today Greg Emslie won the O'Neill CWC keeping all three South African surf event trophies in South Africa.

2010 - Mr Price Pro Ballito - Jordy Smith
2010 - Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay - Jordy Smith
2010 - O'Neill Cold Water Classic Cape Town - Greg Emslie

My next event now lies two months away in France.

Shooting the Moon

2010-07-28T13:32:00.001-07:00

One day late of a full moon

Yesterday whilst sipping a beer on the uShaka Pier the moon stopped me mid sip. It was one of those "have I got enough time to race home 20kms grab my gear and race back 20kms in time" moments.

Today I went back to the pier and the moon wasn't there, strange but true. Departed after buying a bag of sweets for my sour sweet quest. Leaving my friends house I see this glowing orb above the trees. Guess what, the moons up.

First International Cover - Swell#23

2010-07-22T03:26:00.001-07:00

Cover of Swell#23

Swell Magazine is a Belgian surf culture mag, the cover of Swell#23 features a photo of mine from the Hawaii 09/10 Winter season. It is also my first international cover.

Being the season it was of big swell after big swell I took to shooting Waimea from the channel for a change of scenery when I felt comfortable. The surfers are (left) Bart Willems and (right) James Taylor, both from South Africa were there chasing waves in the Norther Hempisphere.

Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay 2010

2010-07-21T09:31:00.000-07:00

Jordy Smith and Sean Holmes

Morning pull back and Morning close-up

VIP aerial view and Boardwalk view

Jordy Smith - 2010 Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay Champion

As we all know along with the entire surfing world and mainstream media, Jordy Smith won the 2010 Billabong Pro in Jeffreys Bay. Not only did he win his first ASP World Tour event but the first South African to win a modern day World Tour event since Shaun Tomson in the 1980s and his victory coincided with Nelson Mandelas 92nd Birthday.

I had more pressing family issues to attend so I bailed JBay on the second day of competition but from Day 1 to Day 4 conditions were what you would hope and expect for a surfing event of professional level whose swell window spans 12 days.

Sean Holmes was the other South African standout where others faltered. In one day he demoted 12 ASP World Titles to the sidelines. First he upped his tally, Sean Holmes 3 Andy Irons 1 before finally having his chance against Kelly Slater. All in a days work with a sore back sending Slater back to the dry deck and giving Jordy a helping hand to number one in the world. This time saying Jordy is #1 is legit.

Next stop Tahiti.

Sean Holmes Wildcard of all Wildcards

Standard Jeffreys Bay Golden Morning

Two water views not many spectators see

Opening Ceremony Dancing

Oxymoron of the decade

2010-07-19T10:50:00.001-07:00

"Enter our health facility and feel free to smoke"

Umhlanga Rocks Hospital Smoking Area. Biggest Oxymoron if ever there was.

Greg Ewing - SA Surf Photographer of the Year

2010-07-14T12:30:00.000-07:00

Greg Ewing SA 2010 Surf POTY

An update regarding the 2010 South African Surf Photographer of the Year is long overdue and while I have some minutes available I'm getting it done.

As you can see Greg Ewing won the award, I didn't shed any tears or loose sleep over not winning. Greg fully deserved the recognition not for only the year gone by but for the many years gone by with the Sheriff doing his thing.

The legend Chris Van Lennep was on hand to congratulate Greg with a canvas print of one of his own photos.

** THIS PHOTO IS NOT MINE, I PINCHED IT FROM GREGS BLOG. PABLO PONZONE WAS THE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE NIGHT AND SO THE IMAGE IS HIS **

Mr Price Pro Ballito Jordy WINS

2010-07-12T05:09:00.001-07:00

Taylor Knox won the event the year Jordy entered his first Mr Price Pro in 2000

Jordy helped make the call on the first day

A common sight when Jordy is surfing

Well the 2010 edition of the Mr Price Pro Ballito came to an end on Saturday with Jordy Smith being crowned the winner. Only the second South African to win the event in 32 years, the third in its history. Shaun Tompson and Ricky Basnett were the previous winners.

Jordy defeated South Coast Bruce Ironsish ripper Casey Grant. Casey supposedly could afford neither a cup of coffee or sandwich throughout the event, perhaps the literal hunger that drove him to the final. From Quarter Final to Semi Final to Final I was saying Casey is the only one who has what it takes to stop the reigning ASP #2 Jordy Smith. Were the ASP running its one tier system Jordy would be #1 in the World, a fact misquoted by the mass media now claiming he has overtaken Kelly Slater.

These are just a handful of images of Jordy through the event.

From the Magic Morning

He beat us but we will still carry him

Only the third South African in its history to win the event

Mr Price Pro Ballito Day 7

2010-07-08T10:06:00.001-07:00

Greg "BIGfoot" Emslie

The 2010 Mr Price Pro Ballito had been trudging along till this morning. I say trudging as the waves were not the greatest, the photos I was producing were not the greatest and moods were certainly not the greatest. Yesterday hit trough bottom when I attempted a shortcut across the storm water drain slipped ended feet first knee second and gear bag third in water I would corner off with hazard tape. Only thing damaged being my pride and I quickly figured laugh it off and so I carried on walking back to my office laughing. Moral of the story, shortcuts don't always save time.

This morning we expected good waves, I didn't expect anything as beautiful as the conditions on offer. Barrelfest, sheet glass, aquatic gold, amazing. Just a few of the adjectives used. Happy is an understatement when describing the photos.

Greg Emslie needed an 8.50 to advance, he was awarded an 8.2something and he was eliminated. My opinion and that of many - Greg was robbed and deserved at least second place.

The Making of Page 8

2010-07-05T23:54:00.000-07:00

Page 8 Underwater - Black & White

The Winter 2010 issue of theBOMBsurf Magazine has been delivered and readers are pouring over content from the past three months. One of the photographs, page 8, is an image stemming from a vision John and Iain had and asked for my help in creating.

The issue is full Black and White, something we think has never been done before and something John and Iain say they will never be doing again. So much was learnt about color management in the production of this magazine that they are looking forward to bringing brighter more vibrant issues in the future.

I have built a bracket that allows me to mount my HD Go Pro camera to my housing to capture high definition video at the same time I create stills. A simple contraption with wonderful results at times from which my plan of developing a series of videos called "Making of" which goes about explaining how a photograph was created. The title explains itself. At the moment my video skills are very limited. As I progress and the learning curve takes an uphill turn I will redo each video. Here is a link to watch the video for the "Making of Page 8".

I also prefer the color version of the image.

Page 8 Underwater - Color

Mr Price Pro Ballito Day 2

2010-07-03T10:18:00.000-07:00

Davey Brand

Today, 3 July 2010, was Day 2 of the Mr Price Pro Ballito, of which I am the event photog, and the conditions last years edition was blessed with have failed to make a repeat show BUT that has not stopped the top South African junior surfers from showing they don't need perfect conditions to show a perfect repertoire. Morning conditions were more favorable than yesterday and a feast of airs, wafts, drops and flops were delivered.

Shark Freediving . . Again

2010-06-28T00:55:00.000-07:00

Me & Scuba "Shark Whisperer"

Last week Friday saw me spending more time underwater with my big fishy friends at their home of Aliwal Shoal. This time I'd talked a friend into joining me. Slowly they will see there is nothing to fear but fear itself.

My friends at theBOMBsurf are running a slideshow.

SA Surf Photographer of the Year update

2010-06-23T11:13:00.001-07:00

SA Photographer Poll Update

Update 23 June 2010 : An update from the South African Photographer of the Year nominee online poll reveals a favorable lead for myself at the moment. Thank you to everyone who has cast their vote, thank you to those who will be casting their vote, and to those who have not cast their vote - chop chop get to it.

Surflines Shark Month - WK3

2010-06-22T10:54:00.001-07:00

Surflines Shark Month Feature

The third installment of Surflines Shark Month feature is now live on their website. Frame 13 of 18 is an image from my first free dive with the sharks of Aliwal Shoal. The photo is of a beautiful Tiger Shark who circled numerous times coming in for belly rubs and touches and on a few occasions let me hold onto her dorsal fin lightly for a swim along.

Friday I visit the toothy friends once again.

2010 Mr Price Pro Ballito

2010-06-21T04:21:00.001-07:00

2010 Mr Price Pro Ballito Website

One of my water photos has been selected as the 2010 Mr Price Pro event image.

The event will commence in nine days time 2010 Mr Price Pro Ballito and is certain to be an action packed surfing extravaganza. Again the event will take place in Ballito and as this years edition coincides with the FIFA World Cup the number of international competitors will unfortunately be lower than before as a result of "World Cup" travel prices. This means the odds of a local surfer, including World Tour competitor Jordy Smith who lacks this one title in his already impressive list of accomplishments, is greater than ever before.

Hipstamatic yes I am 002

2010-06-20T12:45:00.001-07:00

Hipstamatic yes I Am 002

I've developed a small addiction to this Hipstamatic iPhone application.

Clockwise in order taken.

1. I am on a quest to find the most sour sweet in existence. To date all attempts have resulted in nothing but a sugary disappointment.

2. My friend in the quest. She's a little camera shy.

3. Today, 20 June 2010, is Fathers Day. After a plate of moms Lasagna, two and a half bowls of Tiramisu and a bowl of Tipsy Tart and Custard I felt the need for a cuppa tea the moment the electricity went out thus resorting to the skottle and a pot of water.

4. Literally the moment I'd filled up the tea pot with hot water the power came back on. My dads family hand me down Italian coffee pot was put to the boil immediately.

5. A little light bulb, a meshed screen and a bottle of wine make for happy times.

6. Between my dad, sister, aunt and two of her friends six bottles of wine were consumed.

And if Michael Jacksons concerts ever happened I would have spent a little life savings for Golden Circle just because he can burn takkie like no other.

Hipstamatic yes I am 001

2010-06-19T05:56:00.001-07:00

Hipstamatic yes I am 001

I've seen results from the iPhone app Hipstamatic and while simple and novel it is rather entertaining seeing the final output. I had to upgrade to OS 3.1.3 for it to work but that's the geek in me. Clockwise shown in order taken.

SA Surf Photographer of the Year nominee

2010-06-17T06:31:00.000-07:00

SA Surf Photographer of the Year nominee

I have been named as one of the eight SA Surf Photographer of the Year nominees. We were asked to select 10 of our favorite images from the past year (Jan2009-June2010), it is no simple task whittling things to a handful of photographs. Whilst there are photos that jump out and stick in your mind marking themselves as no brainers for such things there are photos which have to fight for your attention amongst a handful of other equally impressive images.

I chose my Top 10 surf related photographs, they do not give a full representation of the surf lifestyle but more so of what I love about surf photography, the photography that butters my bread.

At the moment the galleries are only open for viewing on the ZigZag website with voting live from Friday 18 June 2010. You can view mine and the others of Greg Ewing, Louis Wulff, Alan Van Gysen, Craig Kolesky, Richard Johnson, Richard Hambloch and Luke Patterson.

The final decision will be based on 50% online votes and 50% from a panel of two judges including non other than Mr Chris Van Lennep himself. The winner will be announced at the awards function on 4 July 2010.

Surflines Shark Month - WK2

2010-06-14T11:14:00.000-07:00

Surflines Shark Month Feature

The second installment of Surflines Shark Month feature is now live. Frame 10 of 18 is from my first free diving session with the wonderful sharks of Aliwal Shoal.

Slots Shots and Slideshows

2010-06-13T12:21:00.000-07:00

theBOMBsurf Slideshow

For a week all eyes were focussed on the charts. First Wednesday looked good but it soon became clear Thursday was the day. Many phone calls were made and text messages exchanged before the first photo was captured but once the frame was on the card that was it, over the course of Thursday and Friday 700 photographs were made with a healthy amount being keepers. We should be seeing a few in print in the next issue of the magazine which is a whole damn three months away, but until then here is a very small collection in a slideshow on theBOMBsurf website.

Abstractly Arb

2010-06-10T12:23:00.000-07:00

Arbitrary? Abstract?

Ever had one of those images that for some reason just tickles your fancy? Today produced some fantastic surfing photos along with this fancy tickler.

Archive Archive Archive

2010-06-08T07:20:00.000-07:00

Love Thy Archives

Love your archives. Caress them. Treat them as a lover. Shower them with descriptive words. Label them lovingly. Bestow upon them affection enough to make them blush and glow with images that will jump when you push their magical buttons.

Image submissions are so much easier when you have a simple brief and an archive adequately maintained. Something that would have taken a day quite some time ago today took an hour.

Yesterdays Encounter

2010-06-07T02:35:00.001-07:00

Friendly Black Tip Sharks

Yesterday a friend and I decided it was time for a "Backline Diaries" surf session. Backline Diaries are were we can talk about matters of the heart in a manly environment while performing a manly activity. The spot chosen for the surf being Cave Rock. We had dilly dallied a fair bit so by the time we arrived the wind was kicking into third gear and the tide was dropping. We lolly gagged some more so by the time the inconsistent good looking waves convinced me it was time to get wet the wind had shifted another gear and I had to use all powers of persuasion to get my friend in the water. All tales of look its fun, you wont hit the rocks, there are no sharks, only a 40 minute session. I even offered to buy him a Green Dolphin mega toasted sandwich, considering my beyond stretched budget at the moment that was a big call. Luckily he declined stating "I want healthy food".

Suited up and negotiating the rocks next to the tidal pool I start hearing his screams. "This is scary" followed by screams of panic and fear as the white wash swept him off the rocks and into a tiny gully which was to his benefit in the end as we paddled out in two minutes. And then I broke it to him, "now I will tell you about going back in. The tide is dropping and you cannot just ride a wave in, you can only go so far and then you have to walk back in over the rocks".

Now I don't want to taint his 'Redemption & Justice' reputation so I will admit that when the waves get beyond 8ft and into the sketchy realm he is one of the very few who do not develop and acute case of tennis elbow or repetitive strain syndrome. He does have back issues but forgets them for a taste of the punchier action and then goes home and doesn't walk for two days with a legitimate excuse.

Not 10 minutes into our session he states "what is that" while pointing to a swell bump. It was a chip packet. But what I didn't say was what else I had seen. Whilst land lubbing and lolly gagging I had seen a pod of dolphins folicking 30 minutes before but they were a good distance from what I had seen. For fear of causing a stampede and missing out on the few good waves on offer I felt the obligation to investigate the shadow once or twice more. Okay decision made it's a shark. It didn't buzz us circle us or even try give us a fright, it was further than spitting distance. But still I knew if my friend saw it his reaction would be the least desirable one, so I paddle over and calmly say "don't want to panic you but go in". He says what and again I say as calm as if it were a sunrise "just go in". Thats all I needed to say. Before I even considered a wave in he had beached himself on the sand with little regard for his board which is now missing a fin and has a new hole all while I wanted to stay out and get closer but figured I best not upset the visitor so calmly turned and went it riding the wave all while looking back wishing I was still out there.

I can't tell you what species of shark it was but I can say it was not a Great White. Had it actually popped up right next to us I would like to say my reaction would have been the same. I love the sharks and hopefully they will continue to love me.

Surflines Shark Month - WK1

2010-06-06T13:08:00.000-07:00

Surflines Shark Month Feature

Surfline has proclaimed June as Shark Month and will be using photos and video from my free diving with the sharks of Aliwal Shoal trips.

Every week there will be a new installation, the first becoming active this week. Follow the link and go directly to frame 13 of 16 to see my photo and video.

Sharks . . they are big toothy friends who mean no harm.

A Letter to Bonehead

2010-06-05T05:55:00.000-07:00

An open letter to Bonehead Spearo . .

Dear Mr. Bonehead

If you had a problem with the Rock Cod I speared this morning and was subsequently dangling from my buoy you could have had a word with me instead of doing a bonehead and taking the fish off my pin amidst the silence of a 25 meter line.

Yes a Rock Cod is not the hardest fish to shoot and yes it was a good size. It would have made for a nice lunchtime nibble as an accompaniment to my high tea. But instead the fish lost its life for nothing as opposed of my plate it now sits on the bottom of the ocean because you objected to my hunting of it for a reason I will never know.

Also I understand how hard a Crayfish shell is, the two floating dead from your pin did you old school muscle them on or did you actually spear them?

Regards

Kelly Cestari (Mr.)

Slots & Pretty Shots

2010-06-04T12:11:00.000-07:00

Where were you?
This mornings effort at redemption was nearly dealt a complete dose of failure. Out of bed bright and early ten minutes after my alarm, two doses of "5 more minutes" as opposed to my usual hours worth and I was up getting my oats and surf reports when my eyes on the ocean Goose phones in "it's a bit broken up from the east and still looks good but I broke my hand last night so I wont be surfing". Oh well jump in the car set the compass and burn some petrol.

Casey Grant

Checking in with Casey Grant as I pull out my drive-way reveals a surfer out getting milk for his breakfast and a confidence boosting surf report. Emitting these CO2 gasses might be worthwhile. It wasn't quite working but Casey would be hitting the water in an hour, the amount of time it takes me to reach the spot.

Chris Leppan

Matt Bromley

Mid drive Chris Leppan rings in, he has Matt Bromley with him up from Cape Town and they are looking for waves and photos. Telling them where I'm going the phone call ends as all photo mission phone calls end "see you there". Arriving at my chosen photo studio punches through the second failure. It's not barreling, the wind is up and there is a rip right where I would want to be with fisheye. The cool thing about this spot is you can get right up in spitting distance of the take off zone so observing the goings on is not too painful. Another phone call, Rudy Palmboom Jnr is checking in, his spot is a bit wonky but so is mine. The phone call ends as some photo mission phone calls do "it's nothing great, check you later". Chris and Matt check-in again, they looking at a spot 3 minutes drive away, they take 15 minutes to arrive.

Slade Prestwich

And then it happens, the first dredger swings on to the sandbar. Then a freight train arrives and in my head the clouds part the skies clear and angels sing. A cup of coffee and suit up. That was the plan before failure number three sends its greetings. Flat batteries. I don't use the auto power off feature on my MKIII because before I've had a camera develop errors when waking from slumber and when locked in a housing in the ocean that is not fun. Because I had last used the camera a few days ago and never turned it off the little blinking battery icon sent the obligatory curse word or two from my mouth. It's not exactly what I wanted to do but my 7D was okay to attempt fisheye. I use the auto power off feature on my 7D because I use it when doing photos while free diving with sharks and the time from sealing the housing to getting in the water can be quite long. Another blinking battery. What? Followed by more expletives. It's a strange trick but it works, remove the battery place it back and the camera thinks the battery is full. By this time the rip makes swimming not an option unless doing long lens pull back but that by default of a flat battery was not an option. And this is were redemption comes in. With only one option you are forced to create more. Lately I've been admiring the pull back action shots by my friend Greg Ewing. He has been doing them for a while but lately I've been enjoying them more and more so into his shoes I step and walk

And walk away with a few good frames in the bag and a smile on my face I did.

Slots & Not So Pretty Shots

2010-06-03T04:31:00.000-07:00

For every amazing barrel photo you see inside surf publications the world over there are dozens sitting in pixelDUMP13. For those back in the day shot on film there were assigned to the floor to be stood on, stomped on, smeared with dog poo and swept into the bin. Today with digital I can shoot it yesterday and blog it today.

Rudy Palmboom Jnr

Gavin Roberts

For some images it is plain to see the cause of their fate. Simply put they are not pretty but they do reveal the work it takes to achieve that single frame and at times what happens after THE shot. Surfers are either decapitated by cascading chandeliers or the lip of the wave refuses to throw how we thought it would or want it to.

Yesterday I went shooting at a place known by many but regarded as secret by few so for the sake of being welcomed with camera in hand I will say no names. If you know you know, if you don't you still do. Gavin Roberts and Rudy Palmboom Jnr are two surfers I managed to make a half decent photograph of all while getting the pixelDUMP13 allocation too. Conditions were very good with a glassy ocean and windless sky but the inviting barrels where hard to find making it a tricky session. Some days it's like shooting the proverbial fish in a barrel while others are spent flapping around like a wounded penguin.

Gavin Roberts

Music in Black & White on APX400

2010-06-01T11:52:00.000-07:00

Violent Femmes Crowd

Last Saturday I spent the night at Burn, it's a night club for live music where people dressing strangely is the norm, sometimes girls are mistaken for guys and the Tequila they serve has a hint of Mexican meths. Just because it comes out of a Tequila bottle does not mean it is Tequila. It was the finale of the "Battle of the Tributes" and a friend of mine was doing vocals for the Pearl Jam tribute band. Fun was had and sing alongs sung. Through it all were a small group of young photographers capturing the moments. I know one of them and his images are pretty good, I can see him reaching the highest of heights should he choose to continue in the music realm. Watching them stoked the fire to continue scanning my images.

Michael Stipe : REM

REM was the first concert I ever shot. A few weeks before the concert I had approached a local music based website about the possibility of photographing the concert for them and provide some images for their concert review. I didn't hear anything back. That was until two days before the concert. The email went something like this : "Our photographer bailed on us, I have a ticket, you can shoot and then stay for the rest of the concert". My reply, simply "Yes". I learnt a lot about photographing from "the pit" in that single concert. Rule 1 - do as security says. Rule 2 - no flash. Rule 3 - and this to me is the most important - do not follow the artist from one side of the stage to the other, you will miss many photo opportunities by chasing others. The concert has just started, the artist has a lot of energy, he/she must engage the crowd with in the first song to hype everyone and some artists like showboating for the photographers. Pick a side and stick to it, you will get your close ups and you will get your pull backs. Michael Stipe is a strange yet entertaining character. It rained during the Durban concert, it always rains during Durban concerts. Between one song break he looked into the crowd, focussed on a guy wearing a yellow unbuttoned raincoat and said "thanks for wearing that, you made my night".

Kahn Morbee : The Parlotones

My favorite local, South African, artist to shoot is Kahn Morbee from The Parlotones. His face emits a million expressions, his makeup enhancing them. Some people speak with their hands, Kahn seems to speak with facial contortions.

Avril Lavigne

Avril Lavigne is one of the more memorable concert experiences I've enjoyed. Firstly because I was highly impressed by her live performance. I'd surmised that her recordings were digitally enhanced etc etc, she put those assumptions to rest. Second being that I bagged a number useable frames. The lighting at most concerts is not up to par, the lighting at this venue is always miserable however this time my exposures were more than half decent.

Tweak

In a pervious post I hinted at a South African band who pulled a preMadonna and cut the pit time to one song. It may have just been their management, but it was Tweak and I got two frames. This being one.

Dusting off the scanner

2010-05-28T10:29:00.000-07:00

Years ago I bought a photographic film scanner and went bananas scanning every single piece of film I shot and processed. I'm in the actions of rescanning everything after dusting off this wonderful piece of machinery which has been sitting idle for 2 years. This included all the black and white film I shot during my single year of studying photography. Above is the digital contact sheet from a trip my class did into Durbans Gray Street. We were given filthy looks, we were stopped by police asking if we were aware of how dangerous it was to roam the streets camera in hand, it was even said to us that we were silly white people and to go home. I made some of my favorite photographs that day.

In that time of study I lucked into photographing music concerts local but mostly international. When photographing a music concert your time in the 'pit' is limited to the first three songs, four if the artist is generous. On one such occasion a local and by local I mean South African band who had some fame at their time thought they would pull a preMadonna and shorten that to one song. Where did that get them? No where. Never the less what I would do is have my digital and film body, digital for color and film for a single roll of black and white negative. I would shoot two songs in color as this was my main priority and then concentrate on my personal roll of BW. The very next day I would make a bee line to the college dark room and develop my roll of gold. Sometimes I'd done it just right others not so.

Below is the contact sheet from an Avril Lavigne concert back in 2005. I still have many more from many other concerts to scan. Sad news is I still have about 10 rolls yet to be developed because it is too costly to develop the film I shot it on.

Here Fishy Fishy Fishy

2010-05-27T13:08:00.001-07:00

I'd waited a long, very long, 50 days for this and I was not going to let a little sinus issue stop me. Last night a friend told me chocolate was bad for sinus infections so the slab of Rum & Raisin I was so looking forward to chomping sat next to my bed untouched. Well not really untouched, I sampled three squares and it was as good as I'd expected. I still don't understand how a dairy product can affect your sinus, something for me to google one day. Along with purchasing said slab of chocolate I stocked up on SinuClear and Texa 10. One is a decongestant while the other is for allergies but also dries up your nose.

Self medicating is something one should never be. Last night I took the SinuClear and while it made my nose dribble I was decongested. This morning I figured I didn't want a runny nose inside my mask so I took the Texa 10 and that dried me up to the point I couldn't blow my nose with the resulted sinus implosion bothering me on the drive down south. Aliwal Shoal is on the South Coast and takes approximately an hour to get there, less without morning traffic.

Heeeere Fishy Fishy Fishy Hanli Prinsloo is up in Durban and once again my aquatic guide. Hanli is amazing, she will jump in the water and with one breath fill her five million lungs and swim to the depths. Be it 5 meters, 15 meters or even a scantly 30 meters down she goes no worries in the world. Perfect example being today, one of the ladies going out to meet our toothy friends got a little over excited upon seeing dolphins and asked if we could swim with them. Being the ever accommodating people we are the boat was stopped and we all jumped in. Hanli, mono-fin attached, was straight off and down before I could even adjust my mask or blow my nose and my nose was not happy. Five meters down and it felt like Neptune had reached into my ear canal for his morning workout wearing a boxing glove. Straight up and straight on the boat thank you very much but that was ok as the dolphins were not up for our company and left.

It wasn't quite the dive as my first but can anything ever top a virgin experience? There were no Tiger Sharks and not as many Black Tips, the visibility was not what it could have been but I loved every second in the water and we spent thousands of them without even realising the time. The boys from Blue Wilderness know their stuff and took great care of our needs. Despite some serious intermittent sinus issues were at times Neptune again had a fist in my ear canal and I could hear the bubbles zinging through my skull I went deeper than before, I stayed down till diaphragm contractions and I got the shark photos. I also got video, these days with my 7D and its HD Video I get torn between video or stills. We even named one of the Black Tips, her name is Tracey after the fishing trace hooked in her mouth. It was also very sad to see one with what I can only describe as a lasso around its head. Just like a horse bit in its mouth and wrapped around the top this misfortunate shark was cruising around scavenging like they do. We devised ways of helping it with my theory being really sharp blade in one hand, grip the rope with other and slice simultaneously without cutting yourself spreading blood and thus causing damage with a self induced feeding frenzy.

There is an addition to shark encounter bucket of stories. Todays being the Black Tip body slam. James on the boat finds it hilarious to throw sardine bits around you and your head causing a little feeding frenzy. If this is not enough to convince you sharks are not interested in eating you then I'm not sure what will. On one such occasion I found myself in the middle of around ten sharks going a little bananas and one swam into me full body slam style from my shoulder to my thigh. While a little scary it was exhilarating. On another occasion one got a little too close so I dropped my shoulder again and fended it off. Those weren't the only times I was brave enough to touch the personal space challenged Black Tips. Generally they are jittery and don't like to be touched but there were a few who let you feel there slightly slimy yet silky smooth skin without a fuss in the world.

It was another fantastic day and I hope I don't need to wait another 50 days. June is dive time.

Slideshows, Websites & Snotty Noses

2010-05-26T00:21:00.000-07:00

There is a slideshow on theBOMBsurf website with photos from my day in Cape Town for the Pierre Du Plessis paddle out and O'Neill RAW Courage Awards. All the photos are frame grabs from video I was doing with my Go PRO HD. The quality of footage from this little gadget is amazing and I cannot rave about it enough.

The new found mojo from getting this blog up and running again has spilled into the website pool which has been lying empty skated by the wheels of procrastination. Last night I sat down and commenced the daunting task of sifting through literally thousands of photographs with hundreds each excellent in their own right. How does one choose 20 photographs to showcase ones work? Photography is a matter of subjectivity, you cannot please everyone, stay true to the line you draw and when you are planning on showcasing more than one subject one can get carried away. Just for the surfing gallery alone I spent hours choosing photos only to end up whittling them down to twenty.

Tomorrow I am meant to be free diving with the big toothy friends again but the liters of snot clogging up my sinuses have other ideas. I've been diving before with a snotty head and it is not pleasant no matter how much equalising you do. Hanlii says I MUST go, my joy of swimming with a feared predator says the same but the pack of slimy frogs drumming to the tune of my heartbeat have a different idea. Tomorrow we shall find out.

Cape Town, RAW Awards and Barrels

2010-05-25T01:27:00.000-07:00

They were a year in the making, the O'Neill RAW Courage Awards and finally the prize giving was upon us. For a week I had been checking the cost of flights, I'd already decided I was going down but being budget conscious I scoured all the "low-cost" airlines websites. Somewhat humorous to find the one airline that brags about the lowest of prices was the most costly even with a 15% discount from my medical aid. Perhaps they need the funds to pay for all those witty commercials they create only to have their removal lawfully enforced. My chosen winged chariot was 1Time Airlines whom I shall recommend to any and everyone as they were the cheapest even without a discount and I booked my rental car through them at a favorable rate.

I travel a lot, 6 months of the year really, and this was the first time I departed from the new Durban King Shaka International Airport. This time being in the North and driving against the traffic it was a pleasant quick drive there. Only a rolling tumble weed would have confirmed my suspicions the airport was deserted and the old airport was in fact still operating. Straight to the check-in queue, pleasantries exchanged, baggage checked-in which was underweight for a change and I had my boarding pass. Wimpy breakfast later and I was sitting in my seat staring out the window heading to Cape Town for only the third time in my 30 year existence on this planet.

I don't know my way around Cape Town but my GPS does and I still managed to take a wrong turn. Why do trucks choose the route with only one lane up the mountain? At least I got to scenic route at a viewable pace. I was staying with Bromdog and his family and needed to arrive before a certain hour which never happened thanks to said trucks. Internet on my iPhone kept me entertained while I willed away the hours.

Pierre De Plessis is not a person I met, he may have and was most likely in the lineup on the occasions I was photographing Dungeons but the inescapable feeling of camaraderie while standing on the beach before his memorial paddle out made me feel part of the fraternity. Friends, family, strangers, kids, ballies and dogs all gathered in a circle on the beach said a few words, remembered their friend and proceeded to paddle out to the ocean where a large circle was formed for more words to be said prayers offered and champagne drank. I was moved, not only physically by the oceans rip current but spiritually by the human emotion.

The O'Neill RAW Courage Awards water ceremony might just have been a first of its kind. I've never heard of an awards taking place in the ocean before and I was happy to be attending not only because I had two photos depicting the feats of two surfers in contention for prizes but because it was a beautiful day for such things. Some said I was big headed some said well done, I told them power of positivity. I was adamant my photos were going to be the winners and thus I came to Cape Town. And my photos did win. Matt Bromley - Grom Charge Award. Frank Solomon - Phsyco Freak Award. Well done guys, told you we would win. Great fun was had on land after the intimate awards ceremony in Kommetjie. Tequila, beer and pizza all make for a good night.

A big girls blouse is what I am when it comes to cold water. I like the cold, I love snow but I have a deep seated hatred for cold water. It is not pleasurable to surf in a 4:3 wetsuit with booties and gloves. This was my third visit to Cape Town yet my first surf ever in the icy waters of the Cape.

Who goes flower shopping when visiting a friend for coffee? It was Friday and I was leaving later in the arvo yet I had to return my car before 12:30 to avoid paying for another days rental. My "Heeere Fishy Fishy Fishy" friend Hanli Prinsloo (free dive champion, trainer and fellow shark lover) invited me over to Kalk Bay mid-morning. We had breakfast at a little corner cafe a few steps from Kalk Hobbitville. Best damn omelette I've ever had. She then proceeded to give me a tour of Kalk Bay, it's only one road in and one road out so it wasn't too difficult and then we went plant shopping. More like I stood there thinking a plants a plant while Hanli promised to talk to the plants so they didn't die like the ones being replaced. I rubbed a plant whose leaves smell like lemon citrus and renamed some plant to Shrek Ear.

Flew home with a dose of the flu and waited an hour as my dad insists I told him a different arrival time to the actual time I touched ground. Avoided the Friday night activities as Saturday morning promised fantastical waves. And that it did. Semi-secret spots are great. Finally waves with a bit of juice behind them, one chom out, sheet glass barrels and blue warm water thank you very much. Three and a half horus later we were looking to the skies asking for the east wind to blow so we could head to the Green Dolphin for a maxi breakfast and not feel guilty about leaving the waves behind. The wind blew and we left.

Postcards from Mundaka : 08108

2009-09-09T06:15:00.000-07:00

Ola,

I’ve written this 68hrs in advance but doing a slight re-write before breakfast before leaving.

Two months of Euro Tripping have taken their toll me. A few kilos heavier & a greater discontent towards humanity & my severe pregnant woman mood swings have left me in dire need of a proper cuppa tea. Mom put the kettle on get the 5 Roses Black Spiced Chai tea. I’M GOING HOME.

In the last two days I have come to accept two things. I c0cked up my “60 seconds with Slater” shoot. I never boosted the ISO rating & thus it all came out seriously underexposed, but it was a gloomy day and the pull back achieved in Photoshop ties in with that gloomy effect. That is what I am telling myself. I have also come to terms with the fact my reverse angle crapped out on me & in doing so I am sure a few old sea dogs have cottoned on to the Pocket Wizard angle, we shall see at the upcoming events. But I now know, use fresh recharged batteries EVERY time.

Kirstin & I went into the Euro leg with one goal in mind, shoot these disgruntled naysayers out the water. By the numerous complements we have received I think we achieved just that!

Well done all round.

I have three weeks at home before Machu Pichu, Peru, Hawaii, maybe Canada, Australia & then back home in March 2009.

Until then . . . how can you fly like an eagle with feathers clipped like a parrot?

Postcards from Mundaka : 071008

2009-09-09T06:14:00.000-07:00

Ola,

10hrs45mins & counting till I am outa here. Sorry but I am ready for home, 3 weeks to recharge my travel batteries & then I hit the road for 4 months. Do you blame me? HAHA I hear you cries.

This is San Juan de Gaztelugatze, it is a tiny island on the coast of Biscay belonging to the municipality of Bermeo in the Basque Country. On top of the island is a Hermitage dedicated to San Juan, it dates to the 10th century possibly the 9th. The small church is usually closed (it was today) & dates back as far as the island & appears to have come from the Knights Templar. It has been witness to numerous fires, attacks and ransackings but today stands proud 200 and something steps above sea level.

**all information gathered from wikipedia**

If you think this is great you should see the 20 and 10 frame stitches I have done. Thanks for the idea Casino, it makes up for the raw steak you have served me night after night.

It rained all day and I packed my bags in an hour.

Yes I am excited to be going home.

Until tomorrow . . winner winner chicken dinner.

Toodaloo

Postcards from Mundaka : 061008

2009-09-09T06:13:00.000-07:00

Ola, HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM

This is Mundaka from the water. Real old school architecture with a deep rooted history. Just walk through the skinny streets to feel it.

Not sure if it was a special day or a first weekend of the month tradition but yesterday if you were hungry and had an appetite for fish you just had to pop down to the harbor. There in the baking sun were trays of sardines on the braai. FOR FREE!! You give away complimentary sardines in Durban and you will have a queue stretching from Pheonix to the airport with flights from Deli completely sold out. Now I am not a crazy fan of fish nor sardines, in fact I would never have eaten them if I had to pay for them but they were so salty that if left in the sun any longer it would have been sardine biltong.

Never the less I enjoyed them with the white wine, complimentary too but I smelt like the harbor for the rest of the day. Even after showering.

Didn’t do much today, caught up on a few emails etc etc and procrastinated some more while fully embracing the siesta tradition.

Until tomorrow . . tell me 5 things you like about my body.

Adios

Postcards from Mundaka : 051008

2009-09-09T06:12:00.000-07:00

Ola,

Picture it, your last victory was 3 years ago. You’ve never won a World Title despite being touted as a sure fire thing upon qualifying for the tour & only achieving runner up status twice despite being a 2X Jnr. World Champion & you have a style so slick it makes spreading melted butter look difficult.

I’ve been trying to write this for too long and each sentence is coming out forced.

Enjoy the photo.

Until tomorrow . . I am outa here in 68 hours.

Postcards from Mundaka : 041008

2009-09-09T06:11:00.000-07:00

Ola,

This is what winning is all about. Happy Days Happy Faces. CJ Hobgood – 2008 Billabong Pro Mundaka Champion. Possibly the last Mundaka Champion.

We only needed 4hrs. 20 minutes into the first heat of the day, Quarterfinal No.1 we didn’t think it was going to happen. “Swell is dropping quick, tide not dropping quick enough”. That was the locals call. Obviously he doesn’t have LOLA on his side, she told contest directors its good to go. Even if it wasn’t the boys wanted it done.

And finish in style it did. Four Quarterfinals, Two Semifinals & 15 minutes later the final was taking place in all time Mundaka. Barrel for barrel one Backside one Front side Screw side CJ & Joel were surfing possibly the last Billabong Pro Mundaka final EVER.

60 seconds to go Joel blocks CJ with priority, the wave is ok. CJ then strokes onto the 8 point something gift from above. Only the whistles from the cliff indicted there were two waves in that set, if only Joel knew he should have taken the second. Imaging leading for 34 minutes only have what could have been your first victory in 3 years stolen from you. I’m sure I would also have bypassed all do gooders and words of sympathy to make my way up the slippery stairs & smash my head into the window, punch the walls & vocally vent my anger all while the poor medics sitting in the room turn their backs as an offering of privacy.

Work done, images out party time. Hit Bar Txopos, the only bar, the local bar. Getting one drink at a time proved to be futile so it was a jug of Sangria I walked around with until my hand got sore it hit 3AM and I wanted my bed.

No hangover today, yes this is for yesterday so I could do another to show the looser. Why do we refer to someone as the looser when they place 2nd, one place behind the winner but 31 ahead of those who couldn’t make it past Round 2 & received an equal 33rd. No, not the looser but the other finalist.

Incase you don’t understand this photo, it is tradition in Mundaka to toss the winner off the harbor wall.

Until next time . . . Like WOW.

Postcards from Mundaka : 031008

2009-09-09T06:10:00.000-07:00

Ola,

It’s over K9LLY SLATER or the weird symbol proclaiming 9 world titles is official. He is smiling now but if you were blind & had someone describing to you his level of ecstasy at rewriting the history books yet again you would be forgiven for thinking it was a bed time story you were being read.

I lost sleep over today, the thought of missing this shot or that shot & the only reason the photos don’t reflect the emotion of a World Title is because there wasn’t much.

But I am suffering from mood swings equivalent to that of a pregnant woman, I got hailed on in Mundaka, I got wetter than a drowned rat & my feet felt like ice-blocks & I’ve been Euro Tripping for close on two months. I’ve had enough I’m ready for home & a PROPER cuppa tea. YES I am a spoilt traveler.

I did however witness my surfing hero claim number 9. Does he need 10? I have two answers for that & not enough space left. But I did get this exclusive photo op despite Slaters “f*** did you miss all the photo ops” when I asked him to do the finger thing. I got it though!

The contest WILL finish tomorrow, the boys want it done with.

Until tomorrow . . contest wrist bands decapitate nipples.

Postcards from Mundaka : 021008

2009-09-09T06:09:00.002-07:00

Ola,

Mundaka Udala delivered, & it delivered good!!

Despite being unceremoniously pissed upon from the skies above throughout the day thus having one of only two pairs of jeans & shoes soaking I was in high spirits. But that was only after I figured lets give the 500mm a go from the boat. And that was only after someone suggested it. And that was after I hadn’t thought about it despite spending so much on a good lens with stabilizer.

Never the less I digress.

Royden scored the barrel of the day to receive a perfect 10, his only 10 in his entire surfing career. Not bad at all.

The morning started out crap that’s for sure. Pretty much none of the shots from the morning session were useable.

The dual format system was used much to my & many peoples delight. Did you know a few people wanted to use it in Jeffreys but it was given thethumbs down by the people who now rave about it. We could have had a final in glorious conditions!

Anyway. tomorrow is a big day. Many shooting decisions need to be made. I think it’s somewhat assumed K9lly will happen. He has a wildcard but wildcards have proved his Achilles heel in the past. We shall see, I shall see live & in person thus being one with history.

Until tomorrow . . there is not a single good photo on the ASP website. HAHA naysayers make me laugh, they obviously didn't hear our compliments.

Postcards from Mundaka : 011008

2009-09-09T06:09:00.001-07:00

Ola,

Okay it’s official, the Billabong Pro Mundaka is on. Just incase you were one of the many who were confused by the reports of it being cancelled & then reading withdrawal statements regarding their inaccuracy.

It’s back on & today Round 1 ran at Sopolana, I won’t even bother you with the crud that was on offer, all you need to know that it is now officially known at Slopelana & I am begging Mundakaka not to fail me now.

Imagine knowing the world loves you, Imagine knowing your peers hate you. Imagine knowing you were only one point away from a ninth world title. Imagine knowing you are now only one heat away from a ninth world title. Imagine waking up every morning knowing you are K9lly Slater. Imagine knowing your hair will never grow back and it just makes your more marketable.

Slam me with propaganda, slam me with biased opinions but when you can pull a 9.00 & a 7.33 out of the bag in onshore 3 foot mush then you can sing me your version of imagine.

I didn’t have any worthwhile photos to show off today. No wait I do but they are too good for postcards!!

This new processing technique of mine is going to be my dead goldfish. You the kind, we all had one, you love it so much, you poke it with your finger till it eyes budge & swims upside down. Yes, this processing is going to my gold fish of Photoshop.

Until tomorrow . . I have no background in surfing I just make photos

Postcards from Mundaka : 300908

2009-09-09T06:08:00.000-07:00

Ola,

It’s Kirstins birthday today so Happy Birthday let the grey set in.

This is S’l’opelana. I have seen photos of this place firing so this sloppy lineup doesn’t do it justice but it does show off what a fantastic backdrop it can provide. The call was at 8am this morning, we were provided a map on how to get to Sopelana. We didn't get there with the map.

I will never doubt the GPS again & you can be guaranteed that tomorrow we will get there in 30 minutes. Tomorrow looks like it will be a go as the latter part of the week Mundaka is looking promising.

What started off as one photo has turned into a little project I have fallen into, it is fantastic and the resultant photos are too good to be shown on a postcard. It is bringing me the joy that I have never found in doing portrait work, perhaps that is because I only need my subject for 30 seconds.

We are all going out for dinner to celebrate Kirstins 27 years of Hatch Day so I need to get joojed up and practice my Ola Scenorita.

Until tomorrow . . Es Ka De Gas Koo

Postcards from Mundaka : 290908

2009-09-09T06:07:00.000-07:00

Ola,

Straight off the bat, Yes, there is a bit of trickery going on here but it was the only way I could show off something I have become very fond of doing. Panoramas, stitching anywhere from 5 to 28 photos together is quite fun. And then turning them into nifty black and whites is the Apple Pie.

I just might send out two today you never know because I am making up for yesterday.

We drove down to Mundaka yesterday, a feat which should have been simple but proved a slight headache. A good lunch in Biarritz turned into a u-turn festival. The GPS wanted to take me where I wanted to go but the French deem it fit to block ALL main roads in the city and then close all petrol stations so those sniffing fumes better get their tekkies on.

It is beautiful weather in Mundaka, The Basque Country today but alas no surfing going on and tomorrow is an 8am call at Sopelena the backup venue because Back to Bakio Pro was just not an option. Lets just hope it does not become a Slopelena Pro.

This the Mundaka Harbor, that jetty effort below is where the winner gets tossed off, I am certain we will be seeing K9lly Slater being thrown into the waters of Mundaka to be baptized a 9X World Champion.

The food has been good this year so far. Let us see how long it stays that way.

Until tomorrow . . OLA

Postcards from France - Les Estagnots : 270908

2009-09-09T05:45:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

It is time to bid farewell to France for another year, maybe more who knows.

Started with a Hot Rock ala French Style, it was fantastic apart from the sauce that looked good but tasted not so good. It was Tar Tar Sauce. Who has fish sauce with steak? The BBQ mixed with the Cheese sauce made up for the poor French palette.

I did say there is always an A$$hole everywhere in the world & always two in France. Well yesterday on a fun surf Kirstin had a run-in/paddle-in with one particular small penis syndrome ASP Europe photographer who decided to drop in on anyone & everyone with the excuse that this is his country & he can do what he likes. Try your leash pulling and water splashing frog antics in Africa Mr. Poenoet and see where it gets you. I however surfed a quieter peak up the beach & had fun on the little biscuit of a board I borrowed.

This is the Hossegor town square with a giant wave mural splashed on the side of a flats building. They had a Tony Hawk skate demo here, I missed it because parking was like finding a Dodo bird in the Arctic. It also played home to the main event site which saw absolutely no action what so ever, which is a pity because it was a rather nice one at that.

Down to Mundaka today with a start only looking set for Wednesday. At least Round 2 has been abandoned, unlike Mundaka.

Until tomorrow . . Oh yes this was to make up for yesterday, someone ship me a proper cuppa tea please.

Postcards from France - Les Estagnots : 260908

2009-09-09T05:42:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

Finally I got to use my gadgets for one of the main reasons I bought them & made the cable I needed because I refuse to pay 1000 hairy lama testicles for a cable. Pocket Wizards my friends are just like sleeves of wizard, FANBLOODYTASTIC. You see me right below the word right, I was in the crowd firing my remote camera rigged to the scaffolding. Damn Frenchies, always two assholes remember, started to have too much of a close gander at my setup so I would fire it off & chuckle as they nearly fell backwards & then proceeded to stare into the crowd for the trigger finger. That & get two different angles at the same time. Who said you couldn't be in two places at once?

The French fans are some of the most hectic as well as the most beautiful, they turn up in their thousands.

What did I do today, I cracked a 500 Euro note, just imagine holding R5500 in your hands in one note. Scary. I picked up my washing, no more unchoshure recycling of undies, never leave home in a dirrty pair. Went for a swim in the chilly waters of France, hell I am unfit.

Had a pizza Hans Solo style. Oh and I met a Swedish girl while having coffee. Had two cups just so I stay longer in the hope of those two biddies next to hear leaving so I could chat longer. But alas it didn't happen so I will be frequenting the coffee sop tomorrow at the same time at the same table. YOU NEER KNOW.

I am a fan of Steve Shermans work and I figured out his nifty little processing trick to get this look. It is way easier than you may think.

Until tomorrow . . remember there are always two.

Toodaloo

Postcards from France - Les Estagnots : 250908

2009-09-09T05:40:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

Every story as two sides, but what about the edges? Taj looses Ace wins K9lly is put on hold but lost in the scrum. The final was won by the better surfer of those 35 minutes. Don't get me wrong I am all for K9LLY but even his 8 point ride I felt was slightly over scored.

Right down the final seconds Slater was trying to pull it out the bag, had it been 5 minutes longer and he would have willed a 10 pointer to himself. His last wave only score a 2 something but the announcers were making such a fuss in French that I didn't know who won. No one was hoisting him on their shoulders & we couldn't see him amidst the scrum for a touch of Kelly. Then there, out the corner of my right eye up comings Ace. That's who won. Only the 2nd Top 45 surfer to beat him in 2008. And a deserved winner he was/is.

I saw him later in the night after I left the rock food (side note : i needed someone to party with but all faded - that's the story im sticking to) & he was off his trolly in true Aussie style. His head was surely paining a few hours later.

Until tomorrow . . wherever you are in the world there will always be an asshole. In France there will always be two.

Chow

Postcards from France - Les Estagnots : 240908

2009-09-09T05:39:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

I'd like to say I planned the postal strike so I could show you 3 photos at once but I've been enjoying my time off after ridiculous 12hr work days. Yes I hear you chiming in my ear "your job is not a job". That's why find a job you enjoy and you will never work a day in your life.

It's been a case of so close yet so far for Taj Burrow. For the last two years 'that' trophy, the title, the honor has been within a heats reach yet it's always just out of reach, one air short one barrel pinched on floater flopped.

Mathematically Taj still has an outsiders chance but there are too many this must happen that must happen this person must get food poisoning and that person must fall through their ass. The title is Slaters again, its just a matter of spit polishing the trophy for handover.

A bit upset it didn't go down in France but I spose it adds a touch of flair to Mundaka.

Until the next 10 minutes . . it's it a matter of when not if. Ace waited 3 years for his first win, Taj can wait a little longer for his first title. Perhaps after K9lly Slater goes for number 10?

Bonswarey

Postcards from France - Les Estagnots : 230908

2009-09-09T05:36:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

Yes it is difficult to read this from the postcard but that is why everything is in the email.

I woke up this morning feeling sick to my stomach about the chances of the World Title going down today. Got out of bed had my shower packed my bags and proceeded to have a lie down, this just after getting out of bed.

No World Title went down but Slater did let a wildcard think he would be the one to get one over him. By his own admission he was rattled by the thought of clinching a 9th World Title so my queezy stomach was for due reason.

This is the chaos that surrounds the man, the enigma, the legend, the King that is Kelly Slater. I want it on paper, I think the marketing wheels will spin out K9LLY SLATER.

All these people bitching about Slater winning all the time is burning my balls. It is simple, he wins all the time because there is just no one else as good. All the other surfers that bitch about him and say he must retire why don't they up their game and start winning some heats, work their way into the red jersey and start smashing K9LLY in the finals. Maybe they should all go back to being wildcards as it seemsthose are the only ones hungry enough to rattle him.

Just a little bit of surf nerd info - Slater has earnt $1.7 million dollars in career winnings, a career spanning more than 10 years. Tiger Woods wins half that in one tournament. Slater has a valid reason to have his rants and raves. How about the industry mafia putting their pockets where their mouths are and let the big spenders splash in the pond. Because that's all it is right now, a pond in the ocean.

Until tomorrow . . It is not a new World Champion, it is a re-crowning of the foundation.

Toodaloo

Postcards from France - Les Estagnots : 220908

2009-09-09T05:34:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

Why? Because I can.

This makes up for yesterdays postal strike.

It was a lay-day so I spent an hour of the morning getting my work done and then the rest of the day phaffing around. Should have renamed my archives from the event but you know my middle, third & fourth name is Procrastination.

I still haven't turned my iPOD into a semi-phone yet. After figuring out the back tracking method of downgrading the upgrades I achieved the installation of the old version of what I needed. Then proceeded to install the sip-voip from touchmods which now freezes during setting. All too complicated? I thought so too.

Tomorrow(today) will be on, could a world title go down? You will find out in 5 minutes.

Until tomorrow . . . it is rude not to look.

Toodaloo

Postcards from France - La Graviere : 210908

2009-09-09T05:33:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

I am a fan of Jihad (pictured)! Not because my first full page print in Surfing Magazine was a commissioned portrait, not because he "love you for free", not because he "wants to make better friend with Kelly", not because he bothers to show up for his do or die heat when a 3X World Champion is AWOL for "there is no official reason, the ASP has not from . . . he has not contacted us", not because he calls me his friend unlike the other TOP 40 (yes there are 45), not because he was previously banned from traveling in the US of A due to his name BUT because he KNOWS his granny could have won that heat and he also drinks Tequila.

Oh if only I could repeat the goings on of today, rumour mills working overtime.

Conditions were better this morning, just go look at the event website, oh yes sorry that's right, they don't use our photos rather go look at the ASP Website.

Not a single pair of baggets today, that must be because it is Holy Sunday. God created the birthday suit I remind you!! Still lots of lovelies to distract me from a layback snap here, a bottom turn there, a barrel ride here & a hook over there.

It might be on tomorrow, it might not. We will find out at 8:30AM.

Until tomorrow . . I forgot what Kirstin said but it was a good one liner.

Toodalooo

Postcards from France - La Graviere : 200908

2009-09-09T05:32:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

I'm becoming a big fan of this Reynolds guy. Not because of his surfing, yes it is good, but because he just doesn't care. What he doesn't care about I don't know, I don't care. I arrived mid-interview to hear him proclaim he didn't care, that's cool. It's also cool that he grows a beard, a ginger beard at that! He makes winning look sad.

What I do care about is some silly French Frog setting up in front of me after I'd been shooting a heat already. "I have 600mm + 1.4X", Waves are small so it doesn't matter you must move next to me. Then he shows me an over the top tight crop & proclaims "Good Photos yes". No mate. Photo showing hair on right testicle, crap photo yes, photo showing full size of small wave, good photo yes. And then there was the Bean Pole but he listened to me.

Along with the crowds come the girls, along with the girls come sleazy paparazzo style bum and boob shots. Yes I took them.

Slater had me worried for a second, 5 minutes to go needing 5 something in Round 2 & looking a bit wobbly. Why do I worry, Why? No problem Kelly he telepathically said to me, here is an 8 for your worries.

Until tomorrow . . "it would be an insult if you came to the beach and no one tried to chat up your girlfriend"

Trrrrrre Bien

Postcards from France - La Graviere : 190908

2009-09-09T05:31:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur, Ca Va?

Ca Va TreBien.

Say hello to Kelly Cestari the 2X Non ASP World Champion. Two in a row, last year in Brasil when Mick won & now in France where Should Kelly Slater win and his nearest rival get dealt a horrible hand of Round 2 I have held this fantastic trophy.

Arrived back in France on Wednesday, I love Taxis. No chance was I walking a kilometer with a 31kg bag. Gotta love taxis & expense claims at that!

London was London, wet, cold overcast, tan fading florecent lights. Back in France I can look forward to Croissants, testing my new found mastery of the French language in zee Fwench accent, "Baggets" on the beach and the beauty that is the French girls.

Oh, when you travel somewhere make sure you book a taxi online. Kirstin & I nearly had the honour & highly exorbitant expense claim from driving a Merc SLK soft top 'cos a Mini would just have been too small. If you don't book a rental the next best thing is the small local rental companies that has no queue at their counter . . . they always have cars.

Until tomorrow . . Greg Ewing got excited over a digital camera !! HAHA if only I'd recorded that 2005 conversation in Jeffreys Bay.

Postcards from London : 140908

2009-09-09T05:30:00.002-07:00

Howzit Sir,

Yes a Braai slash BabrieQueue in London. It stopped raining & the sun shone. We got some burgers, some vino, some buns & I got some lemon liqueur which no one else liked so I’m sipping on ice-cold lemons right now.

Russell is now a self proclaimed Michelin rated Braai Master. The chef is only a small fraction of the cooking equation – there is no I in Team but there is a ME.

I am becoming a Sudoku Addict, only because I can actually solve the problems now. I have a MENSA approved Sudoku. It took 10 minutes to figure out how to turn it back on once turned off. Very Mensa Like.

Hard to believe but its only 6 weeks till Hawaii time. The exact duration of the Triple Crown Stress Session. Things to look forward to in Hawaii

* Backdoor
* Backyards
* White House Burgers
* Pipeline
* White House Burgers
* Kelly Sauce
* Starbucks
* Backdoor
* Bikinis
* 3 months of the little big rock.

Until tomorrow . . Patience was a virgin 28 years ago.

Postcards from London : 130908

2009-09-09T05:30:00.001-07:00

Good evening Sir,

Because I can & I got more than one acceptable night shot.

Until tomorrow . . we give it bit of a polish.

Postcards from London : 120908

2009-09-09T05:29:00.001-07:00

**in the Queens English** Good Day,

First things First . . HAPPY BIRTHDAY MURRY. 13, hells bells.

Aaaa I remember my 13th Birthday. Not because anything glamorous occurred butmore because my parents forgot it. Yes parentals you forgot my 13th Birthday for most of the day.

A little history on Big Ben. The name refers to the bell inside the tower. It took 16 horses to transport the bell to the tower on a trolley. It took 18hrs to lift the bell 200ft. Big Ben can in fact be considered a set of twins. The first bell cracked after nearly a year of use thanks to an excessively heavy hammer. A new bell was cast which also cracked. This crack remains as the bell was rotated to hide the crack & a smaller, lighter hammer used. The name is derived from Sir Benjam Hall or a heavyweight boxing champion named Ben Caunt.

Apart from proving me wrong in my statement that the sound is actually a recorded MP3 you gotta love Google. If only I bought shares in the beginning.

It apparently rained today. I was down south & there wasn’t a drop.

I head back to France next Wednesday, can’t wait actually as I need a bit of sand between my toes even though I hate the stuff.

As Kelly Slater won his 5th event this year, 5 of 7 so far, it creates the possibility that he can win his unprecedented 9th World Title in France. If he does it is going to be chaos as the Frenchies truly love the King. If he does & i get hold of a particular lens you will be seeing an image no-one else on that beach will be getting, yes they will get the same fraction of time but now how I want to do it. If I don’t get that lens I will still be getting an angle no one else will.

Until tomorrow . . You are not the best by thinking your the best.

Postcards from London : 110908

2009-09-09T05:28:00.000-07:00

Good day,

Last night witnessed a miracle. No the French did not end the world by splitting atoms. In fact their machine will take a few year to be in full 100% complete, yes I was aiming for the redundancy, working order & only then will they accomplish their goal. that’s if the Russians don’t beat them to it or the Americans don’t bomb them. Last night I didn’t procrastinate, I actually did what I intended to do. Albeit loosing interest and hour into it. Never the less I stuck to and got some night shots done.

I nearly didn’t though. My tripod base plate is permanently fixed to my big lens, the lens which would have been useless on this night expedition. So as I was setting it dawned on me, crumbs what am I to do now. As you can see I made a plan.

The secret brotherhood of photographers was in full force too. A nod a wink a hello as one by one we all walked past each other doing the same thing. Tripod in hand, laughing quietly at those who hand held long exposures unwittingly sizing up each others lenses. It’s not the size that counts its the quality of the glass. AR AR

After all that walking & I did a lot, I felt like a Starbucks. After my Grande Vanilla Latte on Tuesday I once again have the hankering for Starbucks. Alas the BuckStar closes before 11pm. “Well a Guinness will do nicely then” I thought. Nope sorry can’t have that either, bars close at 11pm. So a bottle of water and it was on the tube home with Sudoku keeping me company. I have one more night session in mind. We shall see if I get around to it.

Until tomorrow . . . don’t walk through the underground in a Pink Panther suit.

Postcards from London : 100908

2009-09-09T05:26:00.000-07:00

Allo good Sir,

Where’ve you been Gheeza?

After some rough calculations I left France last week Thursday. To stay in France on my own pocket would have been too costly. Add the fact I don’t have a surfboard with me I would have lost my marbles as I had already done after spending the better part of a week staring at the walls of my hotel room.

So I am back in the spare room of some friends in London.

Firstly thanks British Airways for banning surfboards . NOT. Thanks BA for not adhering to my policy of banning all children under the age of two from flying. Thanks BA for the upgrade to Business Class & then placing two 2-year olds in Business Class with me. Thanks British Airways!!

I had an itch and I had to scratch it. The itch being I wanted a hat, I wanted a cool hat. The scratch being going to Camden Town & buying one. Now with my three favorite items of apparel, The Wooly Lizzard Joompa, my seeing eye glasses and my Delboy hat, I will be hitting London town tonight.

No not for a spot of pint drinking but a spot of night time photography. Now that I have the gear I can do those cool night shots I’ve always wanted to do. And the fact it wont (shouldn’t) be raining tonight.

Until tomorrow . . The Man Manners still prevail

Postcards from France - Hossegor : 010908

2009-09-09T04:50:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

I have a theory, a theory as to why the French guys are perceived to be a collective of 'Poefs'. Yes this is a stereotypical collective but bare with me.

The French woman have no problem presenting themselves on the beach topless. The majority of these are older woman who have long lived past the self consciousness worn by the younger female collective however there are still those who garner a double take. It is these younger females from which my theory is derived.

Every male loves a pert breast, those who do not have it blatantly staring them in the face each time they go for a surf or beach stroll have a greater love for them. Thus it could be due to the fact that the French male sees said Pert Breasts on a day to day basis that he does not appreciate the full beauty of them. It could be this lack of greater appreciation that they wear 'Man Panties' otherwise known as the Speedo as if it were their form of the female breast. Along with their love for the Speedo they have unfathomable fashion sense, yes it is something most woman wished a man would have but they also agree that the Speedo is a poef thing. SO . . When you add the subconscious dress sense with the Speedo you have a "2 the power of 2" mathematical equation which in the end results in . . POEF.

It is a long winded theory of no scientific backing which has a counter argument on the basis that if a collective is presented with an offering on a day to day basis which they are not interested in it then why do the Americans flock to MacDonalds like non-Euro teenagers to the shores of France with the latest in sunglass fashion?

Until tomorrow . . this theory is not that of the Authorities.

Bye

Postcards from France - Hossegor : 310808

2009-09-09T04:49:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

This was the break the event ran at, Les Bordaines. The tide would be wrong in the morning so there was time for a croissant or two & a chocolatine or three. Just image a pastry with chocolate inside it, so much of deliciousness.

I have managed to borrow a board once or twice while being here but as we all know everyone likes their own gear. BUT getting wet was better than sitting in my hotel room which has become a regular past time of recent. Yes Yes Yes Bla Bla Bla.

Is it just me or when driving on the "wrong" side of the road do you find yourself drifting into the "right" side of the road. I believe it is the brain trying to correct your incorrect behavior. It's like those times when just as your falling asleep your body twitches. Do you know what that is? It is your brain thinking your body is shutting down/dying and thus it freaks out and jolts you awake. Your brain is still functioning but your body is not.

Until tomorrow . . after a week I finally had a cuppa T. Proper drinking tea!!

Aahvwaah

Postcards from France - Hossegor : 300808

2009-09-09T04:48:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

Wie I am bored so I am catching up on Postcards. Three, crumbs what a task.

This is for Saturday 30th gone by.

Went shooting with the Rose and Nicola Atherton. This little shorey peak is a bit up North from where the contest was held. Have no clue as to what its name was or is.

All I know is that if this wave was two feet bigger it would have been pretty damn fun but also deadly. A 3.5ft wave deadly? YES. See that broken Pier there, as the tide was rising these broken pieces of pier would become submerged and it became a game of "whose who going to become a Frenchkebab".

It was also stinking hot I remember that much.

Until the next catchup in 5 minutes . . .

I have a theory.

Aavwaa

Postcards from France - Hossegor : 290808

2009-09-09T04:46:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

Happy Gilmore is back on top. Metaphorically & Literally. Steph is ranked No.1 on the World Ratings again & as you can see on the shoulders of her peers.

But if like me your mind is not always above sea level you will instantly know why I could never distribute this photo for world media use. I looked at the thumbnails instantly thinking THAT's THE SHOT only to open it for processing & realized . . . SACREBLUEE!! As great as the French are for getting their bits out it's just not cricket for ethical World Media. Hell I would have loved to have sent it out but alas the fear of my head on a chopping block with big bosses holding the guillotine I held it back for YOUR, yes YOUR viewing pleasure.

I have to say it again, I love the French beach etiquette. If it wasn't rude to stare I would have, if it wasn't rude to stare through my 500mm paparazzi lens I would have done it on a more frequent basis.

Never the less you get the best shots when least expecting them.

Right now I should be out on the party at Creme Cafe with the rest of the workers but mini heart attacks over failed messages prevented me from such activities.

Until tomorrow . . sacreblue oo la la

Postcards from France - Hossegor : 280808

2009-09-09T04:45:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

I am writing this from memory, I didn't do it yesterday because I was tired but I did have a good photo but this is better.

These two were & the darling couple of Les Bordaines beach. The film crews, judges, commentators, photographers (yes me included) just couldn't get enough of them. There were even a few brave souls attempting to break their bond of female love. It was not happening. God Bless them.

The girls event started today (yesterday) and finished today (today 'cos remember I am writing this from memory).

It was a long day, 16 heats in total & I got a bit sun burnt. Girls like tattoos - don't let them tell you otherwise, Pepper was out in full swing. Yes 16 heats is normal for Day 1 of a guys event. But this was a girls event & the norm for Day 1 on a Woman's ASP World tour event is 8. Which is why we finished in two days (remember I am writing this a day late).

Long day at "the office" and then it was home and dinner. Remember when next you are in France - When you order 'De Boef' as Medium Rare you will be getting it virtually raw. Order it dead and it's heart will still be beating. Good beer though. My attempt at being French did not impress the posh waitress. Un Beir Pinte was responded with a "oo a pint of beer". Well excuse my poor French I bet jy kan nie die taal praat.

And then somehow dinner conversation turned to how much porn stars earn. apparently Jenna Jameson makes ten thousand dollars a scene while Ron Jeremy only makes 2000 dollars a scene. Yes girls bits a prettier but come on, where would blue movies be without the fuel I ask you.

Any way it was home to bed after the posh dinner.

Until tomorrow . . sacreblue they are gay? Yes - Embrace it.

Postcards from France - Hossegor : 270808

2009-09-09T04:44:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

Yes I probably have that spelling wrong.

Today was another chill day getting to know the layout. Yes I was here last year but as you know banks shift, event layouts change and besides, last year the RipCurl event was held in Santander - Spain this year it is in Les Bordains - France.

Thanks to British Airways I am now sporting a farmer brown vest tan because I am banned from traveling with surfboards. Well not just me but any ocean loving person who appreciates the joys of bobbing in sea salt. Perhaps if I carried a nine iron and putter I would be in happier circumstances but that is just my cynical humor because The Law of Attraction states I must think only happy thoughts.

Happy Thoughts Happy Thoughts. . . .

See that crowd down there, at least 15 of those humanoids are girls who have their kit out, of those 15 10 are worth a double look. Of those 10 at least 5 would have been gazed upon for far too long had I spotted them. Gotta love the French and their bare the boobs policy.

Just had dinner & who would have thought they would hear the words "it was a good fish dinner" coming from my mouth.

And to the right of that crowd, the far right is the event site, the site which becomes my office from tomorrow when in all likelihood Round 1 and 2 will be run which means at least 2 girls are going home empty handed.

And I have had the 4x4 removed from my possession, the ASP deemed it unfit for me to be driving such a man power on my own. Sniff Sniff

Until tomorrow . . . oooo la la

Postcards from France - Hossegor : 260808

2009-09-09T04:40:00.000-07:00

Bonjeur,

After four days in London I caught a taxi at just past five in the morning quickly shutdown any attempt the taxi driver had of chit chat with a quick snooze checked into my flight with a 30.5kg bag and was booted out of the business lounge despite, so much for gold card access. Nice Try she said. Arrived in Bordeaux was upgraded to a 4x4 rental because they knew they didn't have a small car which I booked, this after they tried to force my hand into paying for the upgrade. HAHA.

So here I am back in Hossegor for the Womans RipCurl event starting on Friday.

I would tell you about the horrendous journey that was my trip from South Africa to London but that would just attract more of it. Instead focus on the good and have a nice day, just as I did this morning after a wobbly last night. Not sure what it was but I got super ancy packing my bags.

Besides I am trying to keep these postcards clean of complaints but not nubiles like I saw at the beach during my quick visit down there today.

The green lines in this photo are actually cages for the mussel farmer, no not Russel.

Until tomorrow . . (1) observe the Law of Attraction (2) buy a GPS they are fanbloodytastic.

Orvwa

Postcards from South Africa - JBay : 200708

2009-09-09T04:33:00.000-07:00

Howzit & yes this postcard is late.

I’m going to stick with the excuse that I was told the network had been shut down meanwhile it has been running all this time.

As you can see, Kelly Slater won AGAIN! Four out of Five, the man continues to make history despite being 36 years old and now that Occy has retired, or has he? since he is at 90% of the events, the oldest competitor & continues to win events “to keep the number above his age”.

The last time I covered and ASP event was back in Brasil when Slater handed over the world title reigns to Mick Fanning & proceeded to declare you we wont be seeing much of him on tour. That was nine months ago and now I was shooting the prize giving of the fourth event he has won in 2008. The ONLY surfer in the ‘TOP 45’ to have won an event this year, Tahiti was won by a wildcard. Slater likes to play mind games I am guessing, going from you wont be seeing much of me to well yes I am thinking of the 9th World Title.

JBay has kept to a few traditions and then not some.
* Event started with a bang then fizzled then ended with a bang – stuck with tradition
* Kelly Slater won - somewhat of a tradition, it is his 4th win here, I think
* I got sick – tradition since last year
* I developed an Aussie twang – tradition since I cant remember when, I hang with em I gotta speak like em
* I ate a lot of crap – constant tradition
* the surf has not fired YET but Monday and Tuesday are looking set for tradition keeping – could stick to tradition
* and a new one was that my housemates laptop got stolen out of the house - Umm that is what door locks are for & hopefully something not to be repeated

I am here for another week, a week of surfing and not shooting, but plans always change.

My last night of frolicking ALONE in a Queen-size bed before relocating to a couch.

My next ASP Event takes me globe trotting back to France and Mundaka.

Until next time . . . words are words, actions apparently speak louder

Toodaloo

Postcards from South Africa - JBay : 150708

2009-09-09T04:32:00.001-07:00

Hoe Gaan Dit Maaaaaaate,

To date Jeffreys is sticking with tradition. 1st strike was starting the rounds with a bang & thenfizzling out. 2nd strike was is me getting the flu, last year I almost married the porcelain bowl. Let
us hope that strike 3 will be Supers firing all of next week with everyone going home or leaving the
shores & then my mates & I can enjoy the lineup to ourselves. Last year it fired for two weeks straight
after the event finished.

Okay lets clear up the miscommunication from yesterday. There was no random frolicking in my queen-size
bed with me then proceeding to use my personal hygiene products for her armpits or moustache. It was
all a practical joke which the girls with whom I have sharing the house thought would be perfect for my
pedantic ness. Yes it worked, YES you are all barred from sharing my house again!!

Last night my flu kicked in so bad that I skipped dessert after the complimentary dinner. Today it is somewhat
alleviated.

This was the lineup in the morning, I added the mist with a little bit of camera trickery.

Four calls today and the contest was off. Tomorrow is going to be a jam packed action day.

Till tomorrow . . if you’re already rubberd up, jump right in.

Toodaloo . . MAAAAAAATE

Postcards from South Africa - Jbay : 140708

2009-09-09T04:31:00.000-07:00

G’day Bruu

I figured it was time to fight the cold so I burnt the plastic & purchased some rubber.

No I am not trying to be like Mr. Slater with his gloves during a heat. It is cold & I am combating the problem of finger lock when shooting in the water.

But as Murphy the sod would have it I go get the kit & the water warms up. Warm to the point that I was cooking in my nice new toasty suit yesterday.

And I also have the sniffles, I’ve cut my feet, I’ve banned ALL girls from my En Suite bathroom. Today was the final straw, WHO and I mean WHO uses someone else's razor!!! And I fear toothbrush but I wont ask about that for fear of loosing the plot. And all this from a GIRL!!!!!!!!

Competition has been off for the last three days, conditions not good enough for these pros. If that is the case you would think they would let us mere mortal surfers have some waves. NO they just paddle out in their droves and take any and everything.

Until tomorrow when we are most likely back ON . . . YES I AM PEDANTIC ABOUT MY PERSONAL HYGIENE GOODS.

Toodaloo

Postcards from South Africa - JBay : 110708

2009-09-09T04:30:00.000-07:00

Howzit Maaaaate,

Yes my annunciation is still be affected by the Twang.

Brent, Dane Reynolds is out and get was knocked by a Brazzo. Come now Dane, the whole hippie thing rocks but skipping events due to mystery illnesses and then being outed by a B-Nut, tsk tsk. In Heitors fairness he did get the biggest wave of the day.

It fired all day, there were the quiet periods with long lulls, one of which I experienced while swimming for two hours. At one point a seal popped up in the lineup, I made sure it wasn’t one of the other sea creatures I wish not to see while wading in the wallows. Once I clarified that it was a seal, I attempted to communicate with it but it didn’t want to know, good thing or bad thing who knows. GHAAAR GHAAAR *clap hands doing that while donning 6mms of rubber*.

Tonight could be a large one, I doubt they will be running tomorrow as there are only two days left and there are two days of cooking surf expected next week, just check the charts. In fact . . THEY WILL NOT RUN TOMORROW and I get to surf and test out my new suit and do some shopping and eat healthy dinner and and and not be up at 6AM.

This is the view from water, as you can see, of the Key Hole. It is a gully which is so clean cut into the rocks it looks man made. But it is not and it is a fantastic paddle out spot despite the fact that on my first surf on Wednesday I snagged a few muscles and new ding in my board. BUT fear not I have two brand spanking new ones waiting for me!!

Until tomorrow . . you with the loud mouth . .BE QUIET.

Toodalooo

Postcards from South Africa - JBay : 100708

2009-09-09T04:29:00.000-07:00

Gdaaaay Maaaate,

It is a habit, for some reason when I’m around Aussies I start to speak with a twang, Maaaate. So bare with me if you are on the receiving end of it.

Without blowing my own trumpet too much, how often do you see barrel shots from Jeffreys Bay, no not the ones you see all the time from the land but the water angle barrel shot. How often?? Tra la la la la la la laaaaa.

This was from yesterday afternoon when if they had their way contest organizers would have run Round 1, but I am gathering the locals said “We are having NONE of that”. Not sure why they objected it’s not like they got too many waves for themselves. Oh yes this is Kai Otton.

Today all of Round 1 was completed. I did shoot from the water and I did freeze my ass off, at least until it thawed out. Kelly Slater wore gloves during his heat, no the man is not a panzie, he is just a clever 8X World Champion with a 9th on the way!! If you want a good chuckle watch the video of Neco Padaratz demonstrating from the water to the judges how he got four barrels on his wave that only score 4 point something. In his fairness he did give me one of my good barrel shots for the day.

Round 2 will probably run tomorrow, today ‘cos I am sending this late and your reading it now. And then it could be a few lay days.

Until next time . . glove up.

Postcards from South Africa - JBay : 090708

2009-09-09T04:28:00.000-07:00

Gooi Mora Mens (yes my afrikaans is atrocious)

As you can see Jeffreys Bay is firing right now, its windy and as cold as a polar bears bum but it is firing!!

I am ‘back on tour’ if you wish to put it that way. My last ASP event was Brasil, a good nine or ten months ago. Crumbs that is jonks weg. Anyway. . . .

I was in East London over the weekend for a good friends wedding, must say it was a good shindig and goes down in my history as the best wedding I’ve been to so far. Cheap, and I mean CHEAP Tequila, R10 (yes TEN RAND) a pop. Needless to say I was downing them like water to a drain along with other dance shoe inducing liquids. AND to top it all off I never woke with a hangover!! Good stuff I tell you.

Yesterday I decided it was time to head to the J of Bay. I banked on a four hour drive, had I factored in the road works and their stoppages I would have banked on a 5 hour drive. I will admit, back road freeways result in a heavy foot but this time it didn’t cost me R200 to get out of a R700 fine. Corrupt cops, love em or hate em but that is another story.

AND THEN I had no accommodation, but Jeffrey always delivers and I didn’t had to sleep in my car.

Today it is firing mate, and on last count there were only 9 guys in the water the rest are already froze, so I’m going for a surf.

TOODALOO

Postcards from South Africa - Durban : 060608

2009-09-09T04:27:00.000-07:00

Howzit,

Borrowing from Will Smith and Vanilla Ice: “WILD WILD WEST JIM WEST DESPERADO AND ALL I HEARD WAS SHELLS FALLING TO THE CONCRETE STEEL FAST”.

Okay my hearing isn’t that good to hear the shells falling but it is good enough to have heard the 9 rounds being emptied into this vehicle. That’s what I heard while sitting at my desk and then 5 minutes later the hovering a police chopper above.

As the story goes, this car had been hijacked & then the occupants decided to break into a house or steal stuff from a house whose neighbors saw what was going on and called the cops. Then there was the off duty cop or something to that affect who lived in the area or was driving by and proceeded to take action. BANG BANG BANG . . . BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG . . . BANG BANG . . . . screeching of tires oops BANG.

That green roof is my aunts house, I live less than a kilometer away. Now on the other side of the building the car is resting against is another hill which she saw some guy come rolling down, stand up dazed and disappear into the night. I counted 7 bullet holes in the car. Again as the story goes 1 of the 4 was dead, 1 injured and 2 escaped. Bugger, they should all be dead!!

Yes welcome to Africa, but we are not the only country to have such wrong doings. Just watch those TV shows from the States with outrageous car chases. Hell one guy can murder his wife with all the evidence pointing towards him yet still gets off and then goes on to write a book saying how he would have done it if he had done it.

Oh and the waves have been cooking, finally.

Till next time . . . so much for ABS.

Postcards from South Africa - Durban : 070508

2009-09-09T04:26:00.000-07:00

Howzit,

South Africa is truly buying into the touristic tag-line of “Deepest Darkest Africa”.

For those not in the know E’ish’Kom adopted a policy of “Load Shedding”, Some felt a bit of optimism and dubbed it “Power Sharing”. Me? I called it the case of idiots in charge of the light switch. Nothing like screwing up your job and still getting an 8 million rand bonus.

Where did our power go, sold to the neighboring countries. I can hear their cackles all the way to the shabeen “Eisha screw our people check all my zeros, bring on the eight hundred thousand quarts I can buy”. Quite funny how Black Label fits with the Black Outs.

Anyway . . last week E’ish”Kom decided to announce that all Load Shedding will cease immediately. My municipality must not have received the memo as my power went out today. Again before I could boil the kettle.

So I found something constructive to do with my time. I will admit I “borrowed” this idea, stole is such a strong word. I borrowed and improved because the version I saw was a good idea badly executed.

Postcards from South Africa - Durban : 030508

2009-09-09T04:25:00.000-07:00

Howzit,

After a somewhat chilly evening on all Durban standards Gav thought it was time to ring the early bells this morning.

The Fruits of the Labor “Super Shack Gav”.

Just a little something something for those like myself who on many previous occasions have missed those sessions thanks to sleeping in or hungover (why is it called being hungover, where does that analogy come from. I will bring it to you next installment). I digress though, this is what you missed out on.

Till next time when petrol will cost R9.50 a liter . . . How much tea would a Totaller drink if a Tea Totaller drank tea?

** I’m not answering questions as to where this was.

Postcards from South Africa - Durban : 230408

2009-09-09T04:24:00.000-07:00

Howzit,

Today the Goodwave ran, I wouldn’t say it was Goodwave quality but it was good never the less. Not many barrels going down, not many boards broken the wind messed up the afternoon session. My theory is to split the event over two days, make it “The 2 Day Goodwave”. Anyway, Shane Thorne pocketed R75 000 for his efforts. good on ya Shaneo.

This here is North Pier, the piers are fantastic when you’re feeling lazy or when there is a bit of size to it. But, and that is a big BUT, get your timing wrong and you will know all about it. I have done the walk of shame on numerous times and I have snapped a board before having even ridden a wave. Today was no exception. With the Lemmings stacked up some were left scratching their heads as to when is the right time. Sometimes there is no right time, you just take the plunge and paddle.

Until next time . . . hot coffee burns your tongue.

Postcards from South Africa - Durban : 170408

2009-09-09T04:22:00.000-07:00

Howzit,

Picture it boys :

* A glorious sunny weekday, yes a Friday but still a glorious sunny weekday
* 7:30 AM
* Breezy offshore winds
* Warm water baggie surf
* 4-5ft high
* 4-5ft wide

You don't have to, I made a picture of it for you this morning.