Puerto Rico come and Gone

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Puerto Rico has come and gone. I sit in the San Juan airport reflecting on what was Puerto Rico for me. The ASP World Tour has been handing out World Titles for 30 years and over half of them were involved at this event. 4 X Stephanie Gilmore. 10 X Kelly Slater. 3 X Andy Irons. Total - 17.

In 1992 Kelly Slater claimed his first World Title in a year I was migrating from Primary to High School. Bordering on my teenage years and raw to teasing I filled in my application form and stated I wanted to be called by my middle name, Nicholas. By 1993 Slater had made my name more acceptable and I liked it. He was my hero, he made my name cool and well he surfed like a World Champ. Seventeen years ago I would never have fathomed the thought that one of my photographs would be the first the world see of Slater being chaired up the beach as a 10 X World Champ.

Stephanie Gilmore joined the ASP World Tour four years ago and taken the title each year since. How many more she will claim is up to her.

Andy Irons claimed three World Titles in '02 - '03 - '04. He passed away on 2 November 2010. He is the only surfer to have ever presented a real challenge to Kelly Slater.

Am I happy to leave Puerto Rico? I am sad to say yes. Its beauty is tainted for me.
I have shed many tears for many reasons. I smile as I turn my back and head to Hawaii.

Our event photos can be seen on the ASP website.

Silverware

Rest in Peace Andy Irons

RIP - AI

He walked up to the window leant down, looked in and said "Hi, I'm Andy Irons". That was 2007 and I was driving to Mundaka. Since then I've had the pleasure of witnessing his brilliance on the ASP World Tour. I never got to see him in his peak, but the Andy flair was there. He stepped off in 2009 for a break and 2010 saw him making a comeback with his first win in three years at Tahiti. The wave where he stands shoulders above the rest.

Yesterday given the chilling news that Andy Irons had passed away stirred up emotions making my moms passing away so very fresh once again. That was 14 August, the day my world came crashing down. Yesterday, 2 November and it feels the same all over again. I cannot call Andy a friend, I don't have that pleasure but I am certain had I made the effort or attempt to befriend more than photographing him on the World Tour we would have perhaps enjoyed a cup of tea and exchanged more than the few words we did. The times at Jeffreys Bay paddling past asking what if his wave was any good or what the score was, each time frozen in awe. He was only two years older than myself yet being in his presence you felt the aura of a hundred year old legend.

A memorial paddle out was held to show the respect and honor of one of the greatest competitors to grace professional surfing. Rest in Peace Andy Irons.

The ASP World Tour photo tribute can be viewed here.

Caribbean - update 1

Jesiah's Bay

Beauty in Devastation

My Euro Trip came to an end and decided to come over to Tortola, one of the British Virgin Islands in the Caribbean.

Yesterday we explored the island while driving to Jesiah's Bay. The mountain face here is hectic, there is no simply driving around the mountain as that would take a full day so what they have done is cut roads up the almost vertical cliff faces. The road zigzags right then left then right and you get to the top and all you see is open air until gravity pulls the car down and you go "oh shit I hope the brakes work". The bends have our car screeching as it is a little automatic jeep that drops gears very late and suddenly a burst of power comes through the wheels. A few weeks back the island, was hit by Hurrican Hugo so the roads are either breaking up, littered with debris or fallen away. Cars with wheels missing and broken windows, some still buried in mud are not an uncommon sight. The cleanup process seems to be getting underway but with so much damage the important things are taken care of first so you have to wonder when the little things like roads with branches and mud, fallen fences and long grass will be taken care of.

Jesiahs Bay used to be very popular. Well it still is if you want to drive to where the road used to be park on the side next to the trees and bushes, walk to the now newly formed swamp then to the old bar and jump over its fence. All that and you are onto a beautiful little bay. According to the lifeguards it gets really good waves. Looking out to sea to the left of the bay is a backdrop of rocks and trees and bush, it would be an amazing backdrop for a surfing photo if only the left that breaks there were actually surf able. There were small, about 1 foot waves, that broke next to the shore that looked like they have potential for an unbelievable wave but the guy said its too fast and breaks in really shallow waters. Every now and then a really good looking wave came through having me staring at it mind surfing wishing it was 4 feet bigger. But then I wouldn’t have had my board and I would have done my nut. So mind surfing I did and thinking of what an amazing photo it would be. To the right is a point which you can walk out onto and if adventurous like the two lifeguards were, get on a knee board and paddle to the other two beach enclaves. I’m struggling to decide if the intensity of color and clarity either matches that of Hawaii or betters it. Flying in it surpassed Hawaii, it really was something from the holiday brochures but on land you don’t see that and only have entering the water to compare. I haven't been snorkeling yet but there appears to be a tiny reef just offshore from our hotel. Once I have found a diving mask to purchase I will venture out there on one of my morning swims or a lazy day activity.

All days are lazy though.

Results of Hugos efforts

If only it were 4ft bigger

Portugal - update 5

Portugal - update 5

Today went to visit the Pena Palace in the town of Sintra. In todays day and age it is almost impossible to make a photo inside an historic tourist attraction without capturing multiple people in the photograph too. It is all quite irritating. Pena Palace itself was quite interesting. I could have spent hours walking through the various rooms dedicated to Kings and Queens of past but the snaking crowd puts pressure on you to move along. That and lack of being allowed to take photos inside shortened my stay. By the size of the ancient beds on display the old Kings and Queens of Portugal must have been dwarfs. I at 5'11 would not be able to fit in any of them.

Then it was to the town of Sintra. A very commercialized tourist destination where I satisfied my need to taste the local Sardines. That need is now over. Portugal is supposedly famous for its Peri Peri Chicken, I am yet to see a single food establishment offering the dish. I am highly disappointed.

Portugal - update 4

Portugal - update 4

Took a stroll around the side streets of Peniche. I enjoy quaint little towns. The cobble stone streets deliver wishes of time travel and yearning for peaceful times. Peniche was never built for modern days and thus you will see a lot of washing hanging from windows and walls. You could create a gallery solely of interesting door photos. Some so old they would fall off their hinges if creaked open. Some so new the contrast against old is painful. And some made interesting by their owners selection of door knob.

It's not butterfly season and a big one came flying straight past me. Love you mom.

Portugal - update 3

Portugal - update 3

Kelly Slater won the 2010 Rip Curl Pro Portugal/Peniche. In doing so adds his first win in Portugal to the book of accomplishments. Jordy Smith took second in the final. The contest is over now and I have till Oct 19 to do nothing in Peniche.

For my personal run down of the event you can read the blog on theBOMBsurf website.

Portugal - update 2

Portugal - update 2

I've been in Peniche/Portugal for over a week now and while I do have internet connectivity in land of the Sardine I have been slack. It happens when working. Since arriving in Peniche the womens part of the event has come and gone. Carissa Moore defeated Steph Gilmore at Lagide and now we are into Round 4 of the mens. We have run at Supertubos and Belgas. In all likely hood we will finish tomorrow back at Supertubos.

Sardines are not my first choice of fish and thus haven't sampled the staple local diet. I have however eaten octopus and whole squid but I did go for the "cleaned" option versus the "natural" option. The difference? Going natural would involve cooking the squid with its entrails still intact.

A 50 year storm was meant to strike last week. While the exaggerated 20ft waves failed to appear the gale force winds and horizontal rain made their presence very much known. Working in rain is never fun and now we have sunshine and I got burnt yesterday. Remember to pack suncream.