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Aloha,
This is where the magic happens, like a Caped Avenger plotting the next feat I sit in Hawaii waiting with baited breath, hoping, thinking this string of abormalities has to come to an end.
As with all new years, it’s cleanup time. The mailing list needs a dust and vacuum. I’m not going to ask who wants on, I’m asking who wants off. Don’t feel ashamed to ask for your removal I won’t egg your house upon my return. If you suddenly get cut off it’s because I feel the time is upon us for you start guessing what I’m up to.
I think it has been 3 weeks of wind and rain now & I’m starting to get slightly ticked as my time left in Hawaii draws to the 4 week mark. But that also means my time in Australia sneaks upon me like a chicken thief in the night.
Until tomorrow . . when the cliches get the better of you it’s time to cut your nails.
Mahalo
Aloha,
MERRY NEW YEAR!!
I will admit I was ready for bed by 10pm but I held my head high and stuck it through. Throwing some crackers around helped. The Rose and Sacha joined us later with their Polaroid Camera and now I want one of those things. You can’t go wrong with a $3.99 instamatic.
As with all New Years it rained but that didn’t stop a ton of Gun Powder going up in flames.
The New Years swell was around but so was the New Years wind. Fun and Games.
Until tomorrow . . 2008 is the year I will have been on earth for 28 years, but only in 90 sleeps.
Mahalo
Aloha,
All horrible things I have said in the past about V-Land, Velzies for those in the know, I do apologize and take it all back.
That place has potential. I surfed it on a 6’6 and had super fun even though it was not throwing.
Hawaii is a state of the USA so as with all things American, we go LARGE. Use my feet a size 9.5 and figure out how big these packs of fireworks are. Just think of how much gun powder this is.
Pyro delight tonight!
Until tomorrow . . when the New Years swell cleans up.
HAPPY NEW YEAR MAY 2008 BE A HELL OF A SHINDIG FOR ONE AND ALL.
And yes, these are my famous slippers.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Idle time makes for an idle mind, where is the Sudoku.
Woke up this morning thinking I was still dreaming. Blue skys and no wind, surely this must be dream land. Nope, but what I also had was a swell of no significance and nothing to shoot. So I surfed 3ft Backyards on a 6’6. Fun and Games.
Since I couldn’t show off my Jordy or Chad barells I will show you this guy, I have dubbed him Wilbur, in honour of Kookmeyer. A small piece of advice from the person behind the camera, when faced with a nice hollow Backdoor fun box do not make a face of sheer amazment or death defying gawk. Simply put, do not do the Goldfish.
As you can see from this example we got some, as they say, sick pits. So just image what the super A-Grades look like, mwaaahaaahaaa.
New Years is up, we all know my rant about this Tick Tock of the clock so I won’t prone your ears to my misgivings. Australia you are up first for New Years celebrations, have fun be safe. South Africa you are next, have fun be silly but don’t be stupid, catch a cab, wrap it if you have to, but don’t stack it.
Until tomorrow . . . While I listen to the clouds flush their bowels of rain I wish you all a safe and happy evening of festivities.
Mahalo
Aloha,
I am no longer boardless! I have a chunky 6’3 and a fantastic looking 6’6. Thanks Jordy, enjoy your 19hr flight.
Picked my boards up this morning, helped Chad relocate to the Bushman abode, had a rest then we headed to Backdoor again. It was nothing like yesterday but Chad still went for it and got some shots, one or two pretty darn good ones at that. It was verywindy though which kept blowing water drops on my dome, housing dome. This as become something of great irritation for me. The number of photos I’ve had ruined by my arch nemesis the water drop equals those which it has not.
Anyway this top angle can only be acquired by going over the falls, which I did. The shot is messy but I love if, the fruits of my labour.
Surfed Backyards and thus now I am very tired. I was ready for bed but forgot I still had this to do, count yourselves lucky.
Until tomorrow . . . I’m sleeping in.
Mahalo
Aloha
Echoing the words of Jerry Maguire . . SHOW ME THE MONEY!
My conversations were heard and my people delivered, it may still have been rainy and cloudy but Backdoor was working today, so good and gaping it was.
What does one do in order to get the best shot? Go over the falls twice, bounce the reef twice, get pinned to the reef twice and those were each on seperate occasions. But you see, it’s all good, besides a new scratch on the water housing no bones are broken.
Legs are very tired but no broken bones.
No this is not an A-Grade shot of Jordy, infact from the Gold and Silver I have in my bag from todays shoot this is a C-Grade, There is one Super A another A and one or Two Bs. I just love this shot. Besides showing off the goods would decrease their value, SHOW ME THE MONEY!
Patience my friends, patience. I’ve been here for 7 weeks and finally I am happy with what I have in the bag. Jordy may be heading home tomorrow but Chad is still here and now it’s his time to shine.
Until tomorrow . . . when the swell sticks, charge your batteries.
Mahalo
Aloha,
The fro works for this guy and he had a stylish bottom turn, he also reminds me of Buttons Kaluhiokalani.
Actually shot today and I actually got some B-Grades worthy of showing to some people who might seem interested in dishing out some cash, sing with me people I want to hear it ringing in my ears . . . Chaching.
This monotenous wind and rain is getting the better of me but today I was not going to give up. With my makeshift umbrella in the form of a towel I sat through three downpoars to get my shots. Besides it was better than sitting indoors all day, I have another 6 weeks to do that.
Starbucks won the first round, Egg Nog Latte was offset by a Foodland Corn Dog. They are very tasty and very fatty but oh so tasty.
“I want to talk you on a walk through a field of wild flowers and then search you for ticks”. You gotta love country music!
Until tomorrow . . . when the sun don’t shine, create your own.
Mahalo
Aloha,
