Thursday, August 5, 2010

Where it all started

The letter that started it all


You'd be amazed what treasures the bottom draw holds. Today while sifting through a pile of paperwork for some all important tax return documents I found this, the letter that started it all.

In 1997 a good friend, Darryn Mountford, and I purchased a waterproof disposable camera. During the school holidays we set about surfing and shooting and now that I think about it I never used swim fins. Crazy but true. It was a "disposable" camera but being the MacGuyver kid/person I was/am I proceeded to ignore instructions dictating the camera should be returned to the store in its whole. I pried it open, wound the film back into the canister and off we went for developing. I remember the day, we finished the roll and went off to Vincent Park mall in East London. While waiting for the one hour developing and printing we had a lunch at Wimpy. I also clearly remember the disappointment when looking through the photos. What at the time seemed like a perfect barrel shot was in fact off centre and soft. With the developing and printing came a free roll of film which found its way back into the "disposable" camera thanks to my early understanding and makeshift darkroom inside my bedroom cupboard at night with all the lights turned off and strict instructions to all in the house that access to my room was forbidden.

There were one or two acceptable photos, when you are 17 finishing school and never seen a photo of yourself surfing, the most average of photos makes you smile and cringe. Smile because you finally have a photo, cringe because you realise how kooky you look.

The few acceptable ones, which I now understand go straight to the editors bin, were shipped off to ZigZag Surfing Magazine. There was no scanning of negatives, there was no scanning of photographs and there was definitely no email with the subject "check these shots". For months as soon as the newest edition hit the shelves I was flipping through the pages. At times I was phoning the surf stores to see if they had sneak peek editions. When told no the next phone call was to CNA because CNA had everything. I'd given up hope. I'd finished school and moved back to Durban. I thought I was never going to see those photos again. I hadn't even touched the "disposable" as I didn't have a friend to surf and shoot with anymore then one day an envelope arrives in the mail. It was from then editor, Jeremy Saville. The next issue I had my first ever surf photograph published.

I can't find the photo at the moment but I know I have the negative somewhere in my box of negatives. That was 1997 and now 2010 I am an ASP World Tour photographer. I've swum my home waters of Durban shooting New Pier, North Beach, Cave Rock the South Coast. I've balanced in a rubber duck shooting a semi-secret reef 5kms out to sea, I've bobbed in a boat shooting South Africas best big wave surfers at South Africas premier big wave break - Dungeons. I've swum Hawaii's Sunset, Off The Wall, Backdoor. I've swum out at Pipeline to "enjoy the scenery" on days I've just not wanted to shoot. Here I am 13 years after that first roll of film all high-tech using 10 frame per second digital cameras and recording high definition video with a camera the size of a matchbox. Here I am 13 years down the line having heard Confucius.

Find a job you enjoy, and you'll never work a day in your life

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Hipstamatic Jeffreys Bay

Hipstamatic JBay


Whilst my visit to Jeffreys Bay for the Billabong Pro was cut short I did put my unhealthy Hipstamatic iPhone application addiction to good use.

A slideshow is currently featured on theBOMBsurf Magazine website.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Surfers Against Nuclear

Surfers Against Nuclear T


The absurd idea of a Nuclear Plant at Thuyspunt, too close to Supertubes for anyones liking - that's not saying anyone even endorses the idea of nuclear plant apart from E(ish)KOM, has brought about great opposition.

A t-shirt has been created in support of this opposition and one of my photos of Casey Grant has been silhouetted for the graphic.

Support the Supertubes Foundation in their quest to expel this mindless thought.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Feeling nostalgic

Sean Holmes post Billabong Pro R2 heat win


Today far away from any surf competition I feel a little nostalgic. Up till the beginning of July I'd been "unemployed" if you wish. The Mr Price Pro was my first event I'd worked in 3.5 months. From there I headed down to Jeffreys Bay for the Billabong Pro where I was forced to bail the event mid Round 2 for a family emergency. Family comes first! Down in Cape Town today Greg Emslie won the O'Neill CWC keeping all three South African surf event trophies in South Africa.

2010 - Mr Price Pro Ballito - Jordy Smith
2010 - Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay - Jordy Smith
2010 - O'Neill Cold Water Classic Cape Town - Greg Emslie

My next event now lies two months away in France.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Shooting the Moon

One day late of a full moon


Yesterday whilst sipping a beer on the uShaka Pier the moon stopped me mid sip. It was one of those "have I got enough time to race home 20kms grab my gear and race back 20kms in time" moments.

Today I went back to the pier and the moon wasn't there, strange but true. Departed after buying a bag of sweets for my sour sweet quest. Leaving my friends house I see this glowing orb above the trees. Guess what, the moons up.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

First International Cover - Swell#23

Cover of Swell#23


Swell Magazine is a Belgian surf culture mag, the cover of Swell#23 features a photo of mine from the Hawaii 09/10 Winter season. It is also my first international cover.

Being the season it was of big swell after big swell I took to shooting Waimea from the channel for a change of scenery when I felt comfortable. The surfers are (left) Bart Willems and (right) James Taylor, both from South Africa were there chasing waves in the Norther Hempisphere.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay 2010

Jordy Smith and Sean Holmes


Morning pull back and Morning close-up


VIP aerial view and Boardwalk view


Jordy Smith - 2010 Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay Champion


As we all know along with the entire surfing world and mainstream media, Jordy Smith won the 2010 Billabong Pro in Jeffreys Bay. Not only did he win his first ASP World Tour event but the first South African to win a modern day World Tour event since Shaun Tomson in the 1980s and his victory coincided with Nelson Mandelas 92nd Birthday.

I had more pressing family issues to attend so I bailed JBay on the second day of competition but from Day 1 to Day 4 conditions were what you would hope and expect for a surfing event of professional level whose swell window spans 12 days.

Sean Holmes was the other South African standout where others faltered. In one day he demoted 12 ASP World Titles to the sidelines. First he upped his tally, Sean Holmes 3 Andy Irons 1 before finally having his chance against Kelly Slater. All in a days work with a sore back sending Slater back to the dry deck and giving Jordy a helping hand to number one in the world. This time saying Jordy is #1 is legit.

Next stop Tahiti.

Sean Holmes Wildcard of all Wildcards


Standard Jeffreys Bay Golden Morning


Two water views not many spectators see


Opening Ceremony Dancing