Two posts ago I related the story behind the letter. Today I show you the photo. Above is the first surf photo I ever had published. It is actually the first photo of any kind I ever had published. My friend Darryn Mountford in the barrel, a tiny barrel, at East London's Bonza Bay Beach. The wind was a stiff NW Burg which kept us warm in the icy water.
The magazine was ZigZag Vol 22/3 May/June 1998 on page 14. When a certain day of the year becomes fateful for some catastrophic reason be it human action induced or Mother Nature response the statisticians play around with numbers and coerce them into meaning something. This particular issue the cover featured a photo sequence shot from the water at Pipeline Hawaii, my favorite place in the world since I live there for three months of the year. The photographer credited with the photo is my part-time boss and friend Pierre Tostee. I am of the belief the photo credits were mixed up as I have never been recounted stories from the boss about water shooting in Hawaii, and I too have been miscredited on numerous occasions. Sometimes to my credit sometimes not.
Flipping through the pages you see faces of current and gone, surfers I love photographing, places I love visiting and some now good friends.
Time is a strange thing, without it you wouldn't need a watch.
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