Caribbean - update 1

Jesiah's Bay

Beauty in Devastation

My Euro Trip came to an end and decided to come over to Tortola, one of the British Virgin Islands in the Caribbean.

Yesterday we explored the island while driving to Jesiah's Bay. The mountain face here is hectic, there is no simply driving around the mountain as that would take a full day so what they have done is cut roads up the almost vertical cliff faces. The road zigzags right then left then right and you get to the top and all you see is open air until gravity pulls the car down and you go "oh shit I hope the brakes work". The bends have our car screeching as it is a little automatic jeep that drops gears very late and suddenly a burst of power comes through the wheels. A few weeks back the island, was hit by Hurrican Hugo so the roads are either breaking up, littered with debris or fallen away. Cars with wheels missing and broken windows, some still buried in mud are not an uncommon sight. The cleanup process seems to be getting underway but with so much damage the important things are taken care of first so you have to wonder when the little things like roads with branches and mud, fallen fences and long grass will be taken care of.

Jesiahs Bay used to be very popular. Well it still is if you want to drive to where the road used to be park on the side next to the trees and bushes, walk to the now newly formed swamp then to the old bar and jump over its fence. All that and you are onto a beautiful little bay. According to the lifeguards it gets really good waves. Looking out to sea to the left of the bay is a backdrop of rocks and trees and bush, it would be an amazing backdrop for a surfing photo if only the left that breaks there were actually surf able. There were small, about 1 foot waves, that broke next to the shore that looked like they have potential for an unbelievable wave but the guy said its too fast and breaks in really shallow waters. Every now and then a really good looking wave came through having me staring at it mind surfing wishing it was 4 feet bigger. But then I wouldn’t have had my board and I would have done my nut. So mind surfing I did and thinking of what an amazing photo it would be. To the right is a point which you can walk out onto and if adventurous like the two lifeguards were, get on a knee board and paddle to the other two beach enclaves. I’m struggling to decide if the intensity of color and clarity either matches that of Hawaii or betters it. Flying in it surpassed Hawaii, it really was something from the holiday brochures but on land you don’t see that and only have entering the water to compare. I haven't been snorkeling yet but there appears to be a tiny reef just offshore from our hotel. Once I have found a diving mask to purchase I will venture out there on one of my morning swims or a lazy day activity.

All days are lazy though.

Results of Hugos efforts

If only it were 4ft bigger

Portugal - update 5

Portugal - update 5

Today went to visit the Pena Palace in the town of Sintra. In todays day and age it is almost impossible to make a photo inside an historic tourist attraction without capturing multiple people in the photograph too. It is all quite irritating. Pena Palace itself was quite interesting. I could have spent hours walking through the various rooms dedicated to Kings and Queens of past but the snaking crowd puts pressure on you to move along. That and lack of being allowed to take photos inside shortened my stay. By the size of the ancient beds on display the old Kings and Queens of Portugal must have been dwarfs. I at 5'11 would not be able to fit in any of them.

Then it was to the town of Sintra. A very commercialized tourist destination where I satisfied my need to taste the local Sardines. That need is now over. Portugal is supposedly famous for its Peri Peri Chicken, I am yet to see a single food establishment offering the dish. I am highly disappointed.

Portugal - update 4

Portugal - update 4

Took a stroll around the side streets of Peniche. I enjoy quaint little towns. The cobble stone streets deliver wishes of time travel and yearning for peaceful times. Peniche was never built for modern days and thus you will see a lot of washing hanging from windows and walls. You could create a gallery solely of interesting door photos. Some so old they would fall off their hinges if creaked open. Some so new the contrast against old is painful. And some made interesting by their owners selection of door knob.

It's not butterfly season and a big one came flying straight past me. Love you mom.

Portugal - update 3

Portugal - update 3

Kelly Slater won the 2010 Rip Curl Pro Portugal/Peniche. In doing so adds his first win in Portugal to the book of accomplishments. Jordy Smith took second in the final. The contest is over now and I have till Oct 19 to do nothing in Peniche.

For my personal run down of the event you can read the blog on theBOMBsurf website.

Portugal - update 2

Portugal - update 2

I've been in Peniche/Portugal for over a week now and while I do have internet connectivity in land of the Sardine I have been slack. It happens when working. Since arriving in Peniche the womens part of the event has come and gone. Carissa Moore defeated Steph Gilmore at Lagide and now we are into Round 4 of the mens. We have run at Supertubos and Belgas. In all likely hood we will finish tomorrow back at Supertubos.

Sardines are not my first choice of fish and thus haven't sampled the staple local diet. I have however eaten octopus and whole squid but I did go for the "cleaned" option versus the "natural" option. The difference? Going natural would involve cooking the squid with its entrails still intact.

A 50 year storm was meant to strike last week. While the exaggerated 20ft waves failed to appear the gale force winds and horizontal rain made their presence very much known. Working in rain is never fun and now we have sunshine and I got burnt yesterday. Remember to pack suncream.

Portugal - update 1

Portugal - update 1

Yesterday we arrived in Portugal for the Rip Curl Pro in Peniche. It is my second visit to the Sardine town of Portugal. It smelt bad upon arrival but you soon become accustomed. First objective is to fine a laundromat and wash my jean pant which should by now be able to walk themselves to the washer.

The drive down was pleasant. Hundreds of kilometers that are a pleasure to drive especially when in a car where cruising at 170kph, sometimes 180kph, feels like the new 120kph. There are still some crazies who come sit on your bumper virtually pushing you out the way. Along the way we stopped for coffee and two men, apologies for the generalisation, from Azbhekistan tried to sell us fake iPhones. My interest was peaked when he showed off the box mentioned 200 euros, he communicated the price by spitting on his finger and writing on my dashboard, until I grabbed it out his hand and saw it was nothing but an mp3 Japanese rip off.

First night in Peniche and I ate octopus. The prices here are very welcome after nearly two weeks in France. 10 Euros for my dinner and 5 Euros for a litre of red wine.

Mundaka

Mundakako

Tall tales of swells calling Mundaka to be all time circulated as the 20 year storm bore down on Hossegor. On Sunday the decision to make the drive down to the Basque region and spend a night in one of my favorite little towns was made. That decision was very nearly put to rest by Mother Nature. I woke up with winds strong enough to topple pine trees and send economy sized garbage bins wheeling across the road. We were warned not to venture forth from the safe confines of our hotel rooms. We were told "get down here immediately". Mother Nature took a lunch break and hit the road. It was the fastest I had ever repacked my suitcases.

We arrived and it was the biggest Mundaka I had ever seen and this was my fourth year visiting the town. It was big but it too was lumpy. That didn't stop the numerous surfers, average joes the pros, locals and foreigners from having fun. One brave soul drifted with the rip out to the proper take off spot, took one wave and had all those lining the shore cheering. Instant celebrity.

Tuesday morning was a hoax. The swell had dropped over night sufficiently to turn the wave into an inconsistent fickle 3ft on low-tide. The norm for Mundaka.

I strolled the streets hipstamatic in hand just as I had done the previous night. Mundaka holds a special place in my heart and sours my feelings to see modern day developments taking hold of the small cobble stone streets. A beer, insalada mixta and cafe con leita con baileys at the casino. A beer at Bar Txopos. Hugs from Giuseppie. Photos of the town without contest paraphernalia and it was time for the drive down to Portugal.

It was a short visit. A visit that made me smile. Like old places and familiar faces I will return.

France - update 4

France - update 4

The final of the French updates. Mick beat Slater in the final in some "pro-only" conditions. Mortal behavior would prevent average surfer joe from paddling that. That and the lack of a jetski. As after parties go people get drunk and injuries occur, I was the wildcard injury for the night. After a fantastic hot-rock, aka Le Boef, we took the few short steps across to Cafe Paris. My bladder felt it was time to evict the few beers I had consumed and so off I went for a pee. All was fine until the last step of the stairwell on my way back to have another beer. Shiny wooden floors with a mix of beer, sweat and urine do not make for a surface with the most traction. Slip goes the foot, ass and elbow on the floor. A dent in the pride is only saved by a thumbs up to the acknowledging crowd along with a split elbow. It was a big cut but it was split to the bone, enough to drip blood on my favorite shoes.

After heading back to the hotel to rinse and wash the wound a soldering on approach was adapted. Rock Food was full and charging at the door and Dicks Tavern was a sweat pit enough to convince me my night was over. 20 minute walk back to the hotel for an uncomfortable night of sleep trying not to bump the egg my elbow had turned into.

Contest is over and a sleep in will be had.

France - update 3

All good things French

Bonjeur from France again. From Monday to Thursday afternoon I have been lazing about drinking Cafe Au Lait, eating Sucre and Lemoen Crepes and the odd Croissant. I love France but some of these natives are rude. Say "no no no no" with a nasal twang while wagging your right index finger. Or just look into the mirror with the rudest death stare and that will be your 'Blue French'.

Hossegor is only a surf town. You can do shopping but mostly surf stores with the odd trinket shop.

You can read my contest blog on theBombsurf.