skip to main |
skip to sidebar
Aloha,
Santa brought me a Starbucks card, let the battle begin. Foodland French Vanilla or Starbucks Egg Nog Latte with the pretty counter girls.
Why can’t anything come together, is it to test my patience or make me better appreciate it when the waves do actually get good and I swim away with gold on the card? Swell around this morning but wrong direction, unless I went to V-Land but I didn’t and don’t really want to.
It was good for a few hours but I didn’t shoot, wasted my time waiting for a phone call.
Moved into my own room today, YEEHAA, bags unpacked so no more living out of a wheelie bag for me, atleast for another 6 weeks that is. And in those 6 weeks please oh please let me score it good, I need the money shots.
Sunset got to redeem itself this arvo. With a 6’9 under my arms I stroked my way out to the lineup with Brent who was talking himself up but walked the walked when he paddled into a sizey one straight off the bat. Well done Brent. Time ticked by but I eventually got onto one, it sure is difficult swinging around a sizey board so I just gunned for the channel. It wasn’t heavy Sunset but it was fun Sunset never the less and earns abetter review in my book of opinions.
Yes it is a very thick book.
So in honour of my Sunset Surf you get a Sun Set with a surfer.
Until tomorrow . . when you see other postcards, imitation is the highest form of flattery. Or is it compliment. This is the real deal baby.
Mahalo
Aloha,
I wish you a Merry Christmas I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, . . . . Jingle Bells Jingle Bells Jingle all the way, oh what fun it is to ride in a World War II Jeep..
Hawaii is 12hrs behind most of you so whilst you were stuffing your faces I was sleeping, so excuse my belated cheer. Santa brought me some doodads and I bought myself some doodads. Starbucks card will be christined tomorrow. 1 times Egg Nog Latte please.
Merry Christmas Bog Roll & Egg Nog. What more would expect from the land of opportunities.
St. Peter however didn’t deliver the waves promised, infact it was the polar opposite and all which was delivered could be compared to a sack of potatoes. Howling Kona winds, waves of decreased size with the odd squall now and then.
A dip in Lake Waimea Bay was required to up the Christmas Cheer. Now it is time for sandwiches and left overs.
Until tomorrow . . Bring on the Egg Nog
Mahalo
Aloha,
Last minute shopping is always a treat, self checkout is even better. If only Pick n Pay would adopt Walmarts way of thinking. Get your goodies, swipe your goodies pay for your goodies, you even get to pack your own goodies! But then something goes wrong and you stand around waiting for assistance while all the other last minute shoppers glare at you with utter contempt.
The forecast was a little off but there were some waves to be had, Jordy and I were trying to get some barrel shots, it didn’t really work. On this occasion the lip tried to shut him down, all he did was mock it and launched into a fair sized air, he better get used to all the cameras pointing at him ‘cos next year is gonna be a circus.
The other photog is Sebastian Rojas, famous for his girlie shots.
Until tomorrow morning when Santa delivers . . . or he doesn’t.
Mahalo
Aloha,
So many surf checks are being performed these days that there are more footprints than waves along the 7mile wonder. There may be a little bit of swell teazing us but the strong Kona winds have no shame mocking us direclty to our faces.
Check this out : http://www.surfingthemag.com/surfing-photo-video/surfing-photo-dept/north-shore-week-in-reveiw-121607/
And now check postcard pcard032_111207, that’s correct, I am not only behind the lens but infront of it too.
All the folk in South Africa will be having Christmas Eve tonight, play safe and whatever you do, dont drink and drive. And my surf buddies, you better uphold the Christmas Hat Surf tradition.
Until tomorrow . . . all I want for Christmas is an 8 foot pit.
Mahalo
Aloha
You might have heard photographers rant on about “Golden Light”, ladies and gentlemen this is the reason we love it so much. This was shot with no filters, no special effects, just pure Hawaiian afternoon golden light.
Moved into the White House today, the Kennedys are my neighbous and we had fantastic home made hamburgers for dinner.
Conditions were slightly improved today and tomorrows forecast shows a bump, could be worthy of dusting off the gear yet again.
Have an early morning airport run, gotta get Kirstin shipped off to Roo land. Spending Christmas in a backpackers is not my cuppa tea but work is work so they say.
Until tomorrow . . . when it’s only two more sleeps till Christmas.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Surfed today, actually surfed twice. First at Laanies, does it not irritate you when your told it’s head high and off-shore. It was off-shore but it was not head high, the session was miserable. Second surf was out at Backyards, I got a little Barrel in 2 feet of water, I never made it out but I got covered never the less. It was a better session until I had to come in over the urchin infested reef.
Swell forcast looks favourable for the following week.
Here’s to the sun finally setting on days of no shooting.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Guess what . . HAHA YOUR WRONG, still no waves. This is from the archives.
This is how blue the water can be when there are waves. Now imagine a barrel shot in crystal blue magic.
The pimping pad rocks, it has great access to the flat ocean at Backyards. Gonna have to build my house with this setup if and when I can afford to.
Had a nice burger at Teds Bakery, Jordy & hisDad joined us. Good to see we can still have lunch with future World Champs.
What else, oh yes its raining again.
I will endevour to bring you more satisfying news besides the continuation of Groundhog Day.
Until tomorrow when we wake with the hope of the Groundhogs shadow . . . christmas time is the silly season, don’t drink & drive.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Groundhog day number 42, I think. But there was a break to the routine today. I moved from the Bay of Turtle back to Sunset, now Im snowys neighbour.
This is what the waves are supposed to be like for a Pipeline Masters but the ocean had something different in mind.
For the followers of Tila the girl with sexual orientation confusion, she has found love, and with a guy! 1-0 to the men of the world.
Can you believe it, another house without a kettle. I did wait in high anticipation for my stove kettle to whistle away as it always does inthe movies. What a let down when it didn’t. Moral of the story, don’t believe anything the movies tell you.
Only problem with being back at Sunset is that Teds Bakery is just a hop skip and a jump over the road, and they have quality Chocolate Eclairs.
No more bus rides for me, yeehaa.
Until tomorrows groundhog day . . . never borrow swim fins without asking.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Pocket wizards or new iPOD? Decisions Decisions.
Everyone enjoyed their first day off after 6 weeks stress that is Triple Crown. Me? I just enjoyed another day of island life and breakfast at the Haleiwa Cafe, Such a sucker for Tattoos am I that I will have to become a regular, another cuppa Tea please Heather.
It was strip down day and the North Shore can begin returning to life that was normal before a few extra hundred people decended upon its sandy shores. The airport should be packed with all those bailing. Me, I still have 51 postcards to deliver.
I said I would focus on the good things but I have two gripes on top of the crappy swell.
* I don’t agree with $6 dolla beers
* I don’t agree with R14 rand one way 5 minute bus rides, $2 dolla a pop.
Until tomorrow which is your today because the internet failed us all day . . . . Orange juice always tastes better before brushing your teeth.
Mahalo
Aloha.
Two World Champions for 2007, Pipe Master and Triple Crown Champion.
The Aussies need something to gloat over after loosing the Rugby.
In all seriousness well done Durbo, you surprised a few and stuck it to many, good on ya mate, put some shrimp on the baabie.
It is a bit unfortunate that he will have an asterisk next to his name in the minds of those who view the Pipe Masters as the be all end all. You see, it was not classic Pipe Masters by definition, it was more like the Back to Bakio Pro. There were a few barrells tunneled through but it was mostly a hack here an air there a 260 to finish.
Two Pipe Masters, Bede Durbidge and the legend that is Mr Gerry Lopez. Sometimes words are not needed, it’s in their eyes,
Sad luck to Grego, sorry dude but as we said, it all happens for a reason.
I was torn between a shot of greg and a Pipe Master shot, Greg will appear never you mind.
Until tomorrow when all the photogs start bailing. . . Murphy will deliver.
Mahalo.
Aloha,
For Sale : 80GB Video iPOD, 11months old : R2000
No I am not a skin head, it’s only #7
No I am not getting married, I am still on the market, any takers for used goods?
Some people partied hard last night so there were a few groggy faces when they felt like pranking everyone about the contest being on. Really, would they ever run the Pipe Masters at the Beach Park? I think not.
A little showdown between the pros and the groms just for a spot of entertainment. Imagine being told, sure little grom ride my board, sure little grom you have full permission to drop in on me. And all that from the 8X World Champ.
Where ever Kelly Slater goes heads turn, the gawkers do get irritating but then they also make for nice compositional frames.
Well that surmises today, not much in the land of food and island life.
Until tomorrow when the rumor is they will try complete the masters . . for great middle of the night entertainment leave bubble wrap on the floor. Someone always wakes up for a pee.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Not much went down today, strong winds made for a messy playground and no swell made for a lay-day, for everyone.
I got up, had breakfast put the telly on started watching a movie fell asleep, got up and pretty much did nothing else. Great island life isn’t it. Oh wait I went for a haircut, clippers #7 thanks. My theory is it will have grown back all shwave style by wedding time in Feb 08.
Got the zoom port for my housing but it’s giving me headaches, hopefully after playing with it a while longer I wont be cursing so much.
Oh yes something very important. One of my photos has been selected in ZigZags top ten photos of 2007, Check it out, I’m not trying to influence you in any way matter or form, but mine is number 5. GO VOTE.
http://www.zigzag.co.za/site/awdep.asp?dealer=6364&depnum=23643#
Mahalo
Aloha,
Music is an important thing, I was singing yesterday while swimming under pounding OTW in a state of mental confusion.
Grego Emo Emslie getting into the right state of mind for his Round 4 encounter here, that was until competition got called off & he didn’t have to get wet. Greg is borderline requalification, make or break when he faces CJ Hobgood, He can do it, he is from
Slummies!
I had to go for a swim this afternoon to wash off a foul mood attempting to envelop me. Bouncing off a few rocks while bodysurfing cured that.
Until tomorrow when I hope to get some better photos . . My pizza is in the oven.
Mahalo
Aloha,
I often have to tell people not to confuse confidence with being cocky, today I was not too sure about myself. Was I being confident because I am learning more from every swim at OTW and Backdoor or was I being cocky because after 3 hours of swimming I hadn’t taken a single beating.
I was leaving the swim under as late as possible to get the best photo. At times I was letting the wave break over mesince it was barreling enough to do so. But towards the end I was getting nervous because nothing had happened & started thinking it was time to go in before something did.
Today even Mr. Achiner didn’t pull rank on me as he did the other day. Pulling rank was nothing verbal or physical, he just flexed his muscles and powered past me to get a shot, his legs are like propellers. Today he just said hey hows it going. I must have been doing something right.
I love this angle but it doesn’t give a proper indication of wave size. Not sure who this chap is either, seems to be the story of my swims.
Pipe Masters actually got waves today, barrells at Pipe AND Backdoor. There were some serious rides going down, it was fantastic seeing the water angle of a well ridden Backdoor.
Swell outlook appears very bleak for the next few days.
Good on ya Steph for taking the Womans World title, Good on ya Rosie for knocking out Lima, now do the sam to Abooobooo.
Till tomorrow . . there was no hangover this morning.
Aloha,
I took the day off, didn’t shoot.
Surfed Sunset till the sun set, if I never surfed that place again I would condem it as one of the worse breaks ever. If your not riding a rhino chaser you have better luck finding the proverbial needle in a haystack.
I’ve had a Mai Tai, I’ve had a Marguerita & now I have a beer in my hand . . . that says it all.
Untill tomorrows hangover . .
Aloha,
Not sure what this kids name is but he did give me a nice photo! Thanks Kid whose name I don’t know but will find out tomorrow.
As you can see I got in the water today, it started off really cloudy and rainy but proceeded clean up nicely giving me some usable stuff as well as learning a possible trick so super sharpness with digital. It was a super treat to swim out and get a money shot in the bag first go.
I swam out to shoot Royden and Greg, Royden tells me the waves are useless and there is nothing worthwhile out there, 10 seconds later he spins around paddles drops and pulls in, Frame one Frame Two, Frame Three and Frame four Thank you very much. Royden paddles out “Don’t know where the hell that came from”. Also got some nice ones of Greg, good on you souf efrikans.
See that in the bottom left corner, yes down there, that is my second cover of the coveted ZigZag. WOOHOO, well done Wok and well done Me.
So while I have tired legs from all the swimming, until tomorrow . . . Cover Three is coming.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Not sure what this kids name is but he did give me a nice photo! Thanks Kid whose name
i don’t know but will find out tomorrow.
As you can see I got in the water today, it started off really cloudy and rainy but proceeded
clean up nicely giving me some usable stuff as well as learning a possible trick so super sharpness
with digital. It was a super treat to swim out and get a money shot in the bag first go.
I swam out to shoot Royden and Greg, Royden tells me the waves are useless and there is nothing
worthwhile out there, 10 seconds later he spins around paddles drops and pulls in, Frame one
Frame Two, Frame Three and Frame four Thank you very much. Royden paddles out “Don’t know where
the hell that came from”. Also got some nice ones of Greg, good on you souf efrikans.
See that in the bottom left corner, yes down there, that is my second cover of the coveted ZigZag.
WOOHOO, well done Wok and well done Me.
So while I have tired legs from all the swimming, until tomorrow . . . Cover Three is coming.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Even the Pros fall, they just make it more dramatic because no matter who you are one reef smear looks the same as another reef smeer, the North Shore is not picky. Joel Parkinson performs the aquatic tuck n roll.
Yes I am playing catchup on this postcard, let me think what went down . . if I can remember.
Wasn’t a very special day apart from getting some good photos whent the clouds parted the sun shone on the clean water. Word spreads quickly, what was two nobodys Off The Wall turned into a fully fledged Billabong Team showdown.
It was Canons “complimentary” dinner night for the photographers who made the trek to Hawaii. Thanks to all the Mai Tais I forgot to book my equipment in for a servicing, something I will have to do sooner or later if I want fully functioning equipment.
Nothing like a gathering of people who choose not to bestowe love upon each other.
Mahalo
Aloha,
The lengths I go to for a decent photo but Mick is becoming my favourite surfer lately so it is OK, I will survive.
Smelly fish are pesky things, they smell aweful and they attract my most hated creature, the Fly or African Budgie. The turbulant oceans washed up a puffy and something that had a beak so similar to that of an octopus but ten times bigger. Unsettled oceans also deposit sand back into places it is supposed to be removed from.
Oh well, it will come, oh yes it will.
Also found out where my bicycle has been stashed, chained to a street pole outside a garage. Hope its still there.
Nothing much goes down on a day of mediocre waves and multi season weather. Atleast I got to shoot again.
Until tomorrow a snippet of advice . . when the sun shines bring an umbrella.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Sing with me “rain drops keep falling on my head . . ” and if you know the rest of the words carry on because I don’t.
It was a somewhat wet day, wet enough to turn my freshly washed white trunks into mud stained material, the freshly washed white shirt completing my attire has a pattern suitable enough for the mud splatter to blend in. Riding a bicycle through soggy leaves is not cricket.
This is what the 7 mile stretch is all about, getting shacked. Gabe Kling getting a coverup worthy of an overclaim unlike young Hayden who proceeded to get a good barrel but not worthy of the over claim he performed at the end, Come now Hayden, it wasn’t
even a blow out, tut tut.
Complementary dinner and drinks tonight, sure beats packet pasta again. It was the 25th Anniversary Dinner/Cocktail shindig for the Vans Triple Crown. The girls who come to these things always amuse me, ‘Pro Ho’ is the term I have been introduced to. And when you hear one girl saying to her friends “If you two happen to hook up” I stopped listening there as I was nearly rolling on the floor in stitches of laughter.
Witnessed an inpromptu jam session Rob Machado had with the shindigs band outside the hotel. I caught myself in a moment of being star struck, it’s Machado for crying out loud give me a break.
Until tommorrow when cooking rice and not ice is nice. Say that 3 times with 4 marshmellows in your mouth.
Mahalo
Aloha,
When I graduated to 4 wheel transport never did I think I would miss a bicycle so much.
Dop Skyf & Snowy admiring the quality goods you can get off a desperate ice head, nothing beats a cruiser for street cred.
We had electricity today so that meant defying island routine and catching up on work.
Yes my so called cruisy job does entail work.
The water playground is still a field of turmoil and thus no playtime was had by none and all. However a swim on the east side was enough to remind the body it’s not on holiday.
Come close I’m going to whisper in your ear . . . . keep an eye out for the next issue of South Africas number one surf magazine . . . . Greg thats 2-1 matey YEEHAA
Mahalo
Aloha,
What do two little stoep kaks have to do with the North Shore you may ask, everything I may answer. The meaner your dogs the better your rep. The fact that these little yappers belong to a knee-boarder with one arm and one eye speaks lots. It’s not about your dogs its about the number of beers in your fridge.
I was fearing for my life some time in the early hours of the morning, I thought the roof was about to ripped from above me. The wind came through with reckless abandon at hurrican force snapping trees like tooth picks on a stubborn steak remain. No electricity for the North Shore the entire day. What does that mean when surfing and shooting were not an option? You sit in one chair for two hours drifting in and out of slumber, eat a choc chip blueberry pancake, go for a cycle to waimea and back. Then
top it off with strong marguritas and buffalo wings with blue cheese sauce, a spot of Starbucks followed by the cheesiest movie.
Only saving grace for “Hitman” is the gorgous Russian girl, maybe she was American but the accent and upper cheek tattoo worked for me. Not sure what her name was but I know she wasn’t Price?
Until tomorrow on the North Shore when the ocean continues to rumble . . . It’s too late to qualify.
Mahalo
Aloha,
I’m loving this color on B&W so much so that I had to do it again. Infact Rip Curl loved it so much they copied me, I wonder if their posters would be as they are had they had not seen my take on things . . .hmmm so much for originality in the industry.
As you can see Makua Rothman won the Sunset event. First time for a Hawaiian in a while, I think, but I do know it was Makuas first Triple Crown victory and thus his party is a rocking tonight.
I felt somewhat lost after the event, usualy when it wraps up and everyone heads off to their showers I head into the office for a few more hours of work, this time as I am not covering the Triple Crown I got to wonder around watching the winners stroll the path with their trophies, cabinet trophies and trophy girlfriends, like it was just another day at the office for them.
Anyway . . . .batton down the hatches, super gale force winds expected tonight, I can actually hear it already.
Until the Pipeline breaks like we all want it to . . . put another shrimp on the baabie.
Mahalo
Aloha,
What happens when you come home from a day out with a few hours of shooting Aaimea under the belt and every single image you have falls into the “Hate is a such a strong word, I will choose not to bestow any love upon it” catagory?
You get all vintage and they suddenly become your favourites with too many to choose from. Garrett MacNamara free styling.
In my new home so waking up early is something new to me, never the less I was roused from my intermittent slumber to head out to Sunset at 8am, maybe it was the fan blowing air over me at MKII or the extra comfy bed i wasn’t used to but I kept waking at a
frequency enough to irritate me.
As you can see Waimea was working, in the process half drowning a booger. Dear Mr. Booger : When the lifeguards give you advice you should heed knowledge from people probably better in the know than you, thanks for providing some entertainment at your
own expense. Not too many broken boards & enough large rouge sets to keep the lifeguards on the loud horn and closing the beach in the evening.
Until the clock strikes 8AM . . It will be back tomorrow.
Mahalo
Aloha,
What do you do on a day when your endurance for boredom is tested? Absolutely nothing but embrace the miserable weather, unruly ocean, the task of repacking and reality TV.
Since Corey is the only lizzard left on the island and still in the contest he gets pulled from the archives to brighten an otherwise wet and gloomy day.
Relocated to my new abode today, Turtle Bay. Not sure about the lack of an ocean view though. But the homelss can’t butter their bread on both sides and still sleep under a blanket.
Until tomorrow when packet pasta looks like nothing until you eat it
Mahalo
Aloha,
I seriously considered skipping the greetings today. It is the Lizzards final night on the island, well two of the ghekos cos Corey smashed his heat & surfs again tomorrow if competition is on, the meat was cooked and beer consumed.
Gav & Dave leave at 4AM, toodaloo safe travels don’t wake me.
It is 1 December today and officially the end of Mouvember so I figured, aggg mos snap a shot and show you the fruits of my labour. Three weeks down the line and I have a healthy Magnum Mou.
So healthy it is I am considering the Musty might be a permanent addition for a short while.
Gotta find something to compliment those grey hairs afterall. And that is my morning hair except it lasted the whole day. The dip in Waimea shorebreak this arvie added some natural gel and half the beach in my hair.
As I am saying tonight on the island . . . Shampoo is for tomorrow.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Motivating surfers for a spot of lifestyle shootiing is like motivating grass to grow.
You’d think flat conditions and the thought of getting out the house would be good enough, but no it seems hours of endless reality telly is enough entertainment, even for me. Nothing like watching a bunch of “Beautys & Geeks” slag each other and then fall in love, agg aint it sweet.
Flat today, from yesterdays heaving monstrosities to todays lake so this mornings conversations consisted of who’s going for a surf and the mornings activities after last nights oily dinner.
As with all things hard to motivate it’s also difficult getting something serious out of them. While Corey flexed his pex, Gav just grinning like someone with a few beers in them and Dave just couldn’t help pulling a Blue Steel.
Girls I expect great amounts of gratitude to follow my way.
Until tomorrow when the 15-20ft hits, as we say in Hawaii . . Who’s up for a game of S**thead?
Mahalo
Aloha,
PADDLE !! That is what i screamed, screaming does not sound manly so I will say I enthusiastically shouted to Dan the Man Redman just before taking a lip on the head. But you see, this time I didn’t have my helmet, this time I had TWO fins and this time I was a little wiser. I avoided the beating Dan recieved, it was the first time I actually feared for a life other than my own. I seriously thought we would be splitting his boards amongst us. Dan has become a photo sl*t and was going for the heaving pit shot, all he got was a lip on the head and a 5 wave smashing. He made it up with some smoker barrels this arvo.
So good are my new fins I get cramps when powering through the fingers of a backdoor Grinch. It’s not so fun having your legs seaze on you mid swim, I survived though, learning more every swim.
It was the Eddie Aikau cermony today and we have a South African invitee for the first time since the events inception. Quite an honourable feet, lets see if Jason can blow the competition away, Souf Efrika style.
The Lizzards leave on Sunday so I will be finding a new home to live in and have a new batch of guys to shoot silly.
As we keep saying in Hawaii . . Hey Bra go buy some bog roll and beers.
Mahalo
Aloha,
People who talk in their sleep are scary, people who have conversations with walls in their sleep are scarier. My new roomie has this habit and it’s freaking me out. I heard you should never wake someone who is sleep walking or talking, does smashing a pillow in their head then pretending nothing happened count as waking them?
As buckets of rain pelted down creating some rather soothing sounds of sleep, as lighting flikered through the window ever so infrequently the rumbling ocean began to stir. And stir it continues to do right now, sssshhh listen, turn the volume down, tell your office to hush, listen carefully. Can you hear it, peaking swell, tons of cubic skull cracking pressure exploding upon the North Shore. Pity it’s all set to fade from first light. But that will not stop us from shooting, only thing with that power is a grey sky and rain. Please let it be sunny and clean in the morning.
It was heaving today, scary conditions for the inempt such as myself. Those not inempt had fun, some put their lives on the line some just provided entertainment. The Oakley house provides a great viewing of the arena from Rockies to OTW to Backdoor to Pipe, and great viewing it is with a beer in hand too.
As todays conversation went . . . Garret McNamara is one crazy mofo !!
Mahalo
Aloha,
Rocks don’t make for nice trampolines, loosing one fin/flipper is not so lekker either. But loosing one and then your replacement pair turning out to be way better is so lekker.
Hopefully all the dramas are over now and I can have a proper water session. The swim out was too good to be true, something had to happen and it did. I was trying to shoot Damien getting pitched with the lip, it was a sizey beast so it would have made for a great photo, I left the swim under too late with the result of said wave gripping my left foot like a granny at bingo night saying “Thanks for coming, goodbye”. It ripped the fin straight off, must have snapped the safety strap too no questions gone. I tried to swim around with one fin but that was like playing sack races with one leg so I ended up swimming just to keep my life intact. Eventually decided to head insearch of said lost fin but to no luck so I went and bought a new pair. Got back to shoot and the weather went belly up ruining the lineup.
Back at the house going through the few images I did get made me angry for all the images I missed.
But all good things happen for a reason and that reason was getting new fins which turned out to be the best thing and deciding I will not be using my helmet unless I really really need to. That thing makes me feel like I am going to drown.
Went out in the arvo with Dan, we spotted a kegging left perfect for barrel shots, headed over and got a few. But alas the lack of light rained on my parade. Never the less that is why Black & White exists.
I gotta get me a flash housing, the guys with one were lighting up those tunnels of love like sparklers at the spur.
Dilemma dilemma, such a coveted place has the postcard become that I am getting requests for the position but it is tricky when you have two shots worthy of contention. But it comes down to who has had one and who hasn’t.
This little nugget was my only decent shot from the drama morning, unfortunately the lip dribbled all over the show.
Till tomorrow, as they say in Hawaii . . . Cook Rice NOT Ice . . . . . . . Mahalo
Aloha,
Got to sleep in today, early morning surf check revealed flat, well small conditions. I even clocked in a surf, warm super glassy water at Backyards. I’m gonna start surfing with some swim goggles for a spot of reef viewing inbetween sets, and when those sets are very few and very far between that makes for lots of breath holding.
My surf wasn’t the best but after you watch Trilogy and Young Guns III for the the third time you try a few things. I managed a pull out pop the tail rail grab air. Felt cool, probably looked very kooky. Do you think I care, do rotten bananas taste good? Yes they do in Banana Bread but I didn’t care.
Go rock jumping at Waimea Bay, its pretty fun when jumping into about 4 feet of water. Compress, just remember to compress. There is a tunnel you can swim through under the giant rock, seems quite daunting before you do it and then it’s twiddly sticks after that, you might even get too confident. Also wintessed some activities saved for the nocturnal times brought into the public view, tsk tsk tsk.
The next three days are meant to be excellent, favourable winds, new swells arriving. I just might be bringing you those deep barrell shots I’ve been longing for, but that means bobbing with every uncle and his hydro-fins in the lineup . . . it’s all good.
Till tomorrow . . as I do in Hawaii, leave the toilet seat down.
Mahalo
Aloha
Forcasting is a tricky thing, look at the weather guy who said it would be a clear day only to have a tornado rip the town apart. Surf forcasting however has become something you could set a clock to. As predicted the waves decreased in size and then some.
Tuesday ‘should’ see the ocean upping the antee until it maxes on Wednesday with 18ft faces. Some guys in the Sunset contest are not looking forward to that prospect, 18ft Sunset is not a beast you want to tame.
A few of you would have expected a sunset shot from me by now, HAHA proved your assumption incorrect. This time I thought better to hold out till something other than the bog standard golden globe dipping below the horizon. Have you ever seen a green flash when the sun sets? Apparently a green flash occurs mini momets after the event, I am of the belief it is just your retinas being burnt and the green is the cinderings of your eye-balls.
Dan Redman claims the 2007/8 Maiden Sunset Postcard, what a special honor.
Oh Yes . . Well done Gav for popping 3 rental tyres, a fantastic achievment in its own.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Well the decision to surf and shoot later backfired, everyone got sucked into the lazy mode, reality tv shows, skype chatting and then Gav decided it was time to go shoot atthe waterfall. Now why would one shoot at such a pretty location when it is overcast?
In the end Trilogy was purchased & watched, some went surfing, some went to watch the surfing I had my gear and figured hell I can’t be sitting here with Dane Reynolds doing some turns and not shoot, so i clicked a few.
It wasn’t as big as yesterday but it was still wooly in the morning hence the decision of trying it later on. Swell is set to drop tomorrow and clean up. SO come first light we are supposedly on it, then it’s the waterfall and then its more surfing and shooting while Gav takes his better half to the airport for two days of travelling home to eFrika.
Till tommorrow . . I will endevour to be on the ball
Mahalo
Aloha,
Friday morning, swell rocked up, no where really surfable, Roy Powers grabbed the Reef Pro to lead the chase for the glory of Triple Crown Championship & back into contention for the WCT again, and then Waimea Shorebreak comes to life.
Not content with sitting on my bum inside the house all day I put my DIY skills to use and fixed the bike. Cameras in bag it was time to get sweaty and smell pretty.
After a while all big waves start to look the same, especially messy waves and those which look inviting are only that for a few seconds until they detonate and laugh in your face.
Waimea Shorebreak on the other hand looked super fun don’t you think.
Wind is up right now maybe it will surprise us with clean conditions and I can get back in the water.
Until then, as I say in Hawaii, maybe the wind will subside.
Mahalo
Aloha, gobble gobble gobble
Let us all give thanks to happy. Happy was a cheerful turkey who grazed upon the corn he was fed all his life. Today he fed me.
Thanks Happy for giving my belly the need to undo the top button. Thanks White House for feeding me Happy.
Yep, it was my first American thanks giving, and what a day it was. firstly woke up with a killer headache, you know how it is when your lying in bed and it feels like your brain is spinning. Last night we hit the Party Bus and ended up a club called “Next Door”. Upon first look I thought we were in China Town, ornamentals all over the show. It was 80s night so i hit the dance floor big time, it’s great when no one knows you and those who do don’t care. Such were the dance moves I was jamming I had a black man complement me on my prowess. “Brother, if you could see my room right now you would see the white man is my hero”.
And then came along Jenny-Lee. J-Lee as I will call her spoke the biggest load of nonsence and name dropped so much if i had a quarter in each pocket for every time she mentioned some recording with Erika Baaaaduuuu my pants would have fallen off. BUT you see, her accent is what got me, oh my golly gosh, if I was blind i would have been in heaven, and add the fact that I was sitting for most of the conversation while she was standing infront waffling on her black lacies were playing peekaboo. Jenny Jenny Jenny.
And then today I played plumber boy. Someone in the house has a habit of blocking the toilet and not doing anything about. Little ol me flushes the damn thing and splash splash get your wellies on it’s plunging time. I will be giving the house a stern talking to.
Then my bicycle, or the bicycle that was to be mine in the near future broke while riding to eat happy. Never the less retired the bike, was picked up, ate happy and now I bring to you todays eye candy. Amidst the revealing of flesh Royden here managed to boost, get the shot and still see the lovelies.
Untill tomorrow, as I say in Hawaii, Do not drink Budweiser, there is a reason they print the alchohol content on the can.
Mahalo
Aloha,
The North Shore is full of surprises, Surprises and groundhog Days, if I could think of an Oxymoron I would mention one but hey that’s the North Shore.
Yesterday evening the sets coming through at rockies were somewhat hefty, this morning we woke up to see white water through the palm leaves and when you can see the white wash from where we are, you know it is on. The contest was called on aswell but none of our guys were in it so they charged Sunset.
Nikita put some boys to shame, I wanted to paddle out but I know my limits & I pulled the gammy knee excuse, oh yes I also needed to make some photos. Gav tweaked his neck pulling into a freight train while Dave, Corey and Dan all had fun. I stood on the shore wishing I was out there.
I’m still deliberating about sending the lens back, if i do I’m water bound for about two weeks and it is going to cost a hefty packet to get it to them.
If I don’t i don’t get a straight swop out.
Decisions decisions, what to do what to do.
You’re getting this early ‘cos we hitting the town tonight. Party Bus down the Kammy.
Till tommorrow . . as I say in Hawaii, put the kettle on.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Check it out, the first session with the new 500. I’m left eye wonky from so much shooting today. And while I am happy with it I am also dissapointed with Canon for I fear I have to send it back. HOW can a lens of that magnitude be passed through quality control with dust and some form of residue on the INNER element. YES, the inner element meaning it is not my fault & they must therefore give me a new one. I don’t have the time nor patience to dilly dally in the ally and let them ‘repair’ it.
Other than that it is as sharp as a glass cutting nipple in Alaska.
Big swell expected for Friday, now (A) do I set myself the possibility to work on Saturday which is the last day of the waiting period which means Haleiwa will be cooking which means the rest of the North Shore will most likely be cooking and thus by working for a few dollars run the chance of missing the free surf money shots OR (b) Say sorry and shoot the free surfing. Are you thinking what I’m thinking ??
Oh yes this is Jamie O’Brien, the chap who won the event I was covering in Jan/Feb when I was last in Hawaii. Never did I think I would make it to Hawaii and here I am twice in one year.
Till tomorrow, as we say in Hawaii, go away rain let the ocean turn blue and waves pound the shores.
Regards
Aloha,
Have you watched the movie Groundhog Day”? Well that is what this weather is turning Hawaii Island Life into. Wake up the oceans and the sky is throwing a wobbly then the sun shines and golf ball size raindrops fall from the clouds above, sometimes from the empty skies above, go figure that one.
Then hit spin and repeat.
This is what happens on a wobbly day, wind blows you loose your board on an air attempt alla Dave Richards style, whilst that happens in the water the other happens on land. Show some sun show some skin.
TAAADAAA got my goodies today, no more borrowing lenses for me. Yes the 500mm does look on the small side but it will sure deliver the gold. Thanks Shannon for being on UPS watch.
Till tomorrows rise n shine for the wobbly, as we say in Hawaii
Kukua on the dry floor.
Aloha,
Okay so I dipped into the reserves, I blame injury, I blame no waves I blame everything except for the very lazy day I had and today I bring you something a little different.
Woke up late, I had a sore knee ok! I lazed about all day, I had a sore knee ok! I never stepped foot outside for most part of the day, I had a sore knee ok!
This is one of the finer hotel establishments in Waikiki, as you can see the Ornamental visitors LOVE their limmos. Stretch limos, hummer limos, any limo as long as its extravagant looking your bound to vind a family of Ornamentals in it. If they are not in it, they are all standing in the sand cameras pointing at the waves of Sunset Beach.
We went to the movies tonight and watched SAW IV. If your into over indulged imaginations of gore go watch it. If your not into head squashing ice cubes, don’t.
Better swell expected tomorrow and through the week, i think there will be good stuff in the morning. So hopefully, fingers crossed here, I will have some cracker shots tomorrow and finally get my goodies from UPS.
Till tomorrows sand between the toes . . .
Mahalo
Aloha,
We spent the day in Waikiki since we were tired of sitting in the house on the laptops while watching “A shot at love with Tila Tequila”. As fun as it is watching grown woman, whom are lesbians, fight over the affection of a sexually confused woman while competeing for her “love” with guys on a reality TV show, we had to venture out for McDonalds.
One Big Mac and Quarter Pounder later I was not satisfied but the calling of a Hagen Das milkshake held me off from testing the chicken burger.
A dip in the waters of Waikiki revealed some exceptionally salty water, why I don’t know but I can tell you really warm salty water attracts lots of ornamentals. Tons of Asian girls milling about, Love em or hate em they don’t float my boat. Very odd weather too, rain, sun, clouds, repeat cycle 50 times.
This is Waikiki from the often unseen angle, to the right you don’t see him but there stands the statue of THE Duke Paoa Kahanamoku.
Right now I lie in bed being eaten by mosquitos for the first time since Spain listening to the rain with a throbbing knee. You see from here we strolled through the market and then ventured down to Sandy Beach on the East Shore for a splash of Body Surfing in the shorebreak. It was good fun, but as our parents tell us it’s fun and games until someone ends up in tears. I have a habit of pulling my knees up when going over the falls, this time i drove my left knee straight into the sand.
Needless to say thanks to poker night and the free flowing beers i couldn’t take any pain killers.
Lets see if this African Potatoe Cream works, no word of a lie there is such stuff.
Well done to RED Yamaha for taking a clean sweep in the Supermoto Championships.
Mahalo
Aloha
Why is it I can link up with everyone except with those I actually need to? Kirk Flintoff here : right place right time.
So much for no more sleeps till my goodies arrive, it has taken a few steps back. They tried to deliver, no one was available to sign, i now wait till Monday. BUGGER!
Swell dropped today so our expidition to Log Cabins proved fruitless, I didn’t cop a beating on the head too many times though. Instead i smacked my tooth straight into the middle of the fish dome but luckly it doesn’t show up in the photos, then thanks to super shallow waters i smashed the fish dome straight into the reef, luckly it’s right outside the fisheye and doesn’t show up either. Are you thinking that I am meant to be shooting from the water? Well how could I without any land gear so I think I’m still meant to be in the water.
Congrats to Gav and Lolanthe on their engagement. Gav did the dirty and went on one knee infront of the Waikiki Duke.
Yesterday evening i threw together a fantastic dinner, Lays Onion dip works wonders as a base for flavour. Tonight it was Cholos, so glad they had Chimi Changas, hmmm tasty.
Okay bed time now as I must be up super early for Supermoto distribution.
Untill my gear arrives . .
Mahalo
Aloha,
I made a pakt with myself that I would never dip into the reserves to bring your daily update but todays images just didn’t cut the cheese and this was just to good to leave unseen.
This is my mate, his name is Mikala. I have no idea how old he is but he’s the son of the mommy who let me use her towel when my camera went for a coffee break in the middle of an important shoot the other day.
How’d you like that for a bunch of superflous words?
I’d just come in from the session of questioning the reason for swimming these waters, buggered from the swim and racked with cramps I tossed my gear in the big beach puddle left by one of the bigger waves to wash the shores. Mikala comes over asking if my camera is working, I tell him to push the button to show him it is and what it does when it works. He must have fired of 30 frames, tight trigger finger the little gremlin had. He strolls over picks up my gear and well it was a perfect photo op.
Who knows, maybe in 10 years time he will be ripping up the north shore.
Today we surfed Rock Piles again, big mistake crappy waves useless photos. We should have gone to Off The Wall.
Live and learn.
I am supporting MOUvember and growing a tash for the month, I will bring you a weekly update on the tickler growth.
Till tomorrow when the MOU has grown a little bit more . . . Mahalo
Aloha.
Good thing I had some practice taking a few on the head out at Backyards yesterday. Today the swell picked up and today I swam out and today I took a few more on the head. This time meaty ones on the head, the kind which make you rethink your logic in being out there, the kind which test your lung capacity. That is until you calm down and begin to figure out the lineup.
The intial paddle out was ok, it wasn’t a piece of cake but it wasn’t scary either. The first set to catch me off guard taught me a big lesson, don’t get caught off guard. Staring up at an 8ft slab of water about to implode upon my head I remembered the words of
Van the man “Don’t try swim under rather just take a beating and swim back out”. Bugger this I can swim under, WHAM on the head and the first test of the left lung, second wave WHAM on the head first test of the right lung. Okay Van must have spoken wise words, I took the beating tested both lungs kept telling myself to calm down relax your ok.
Next thing I was swimming like an Olympic Champion and out back again. This time round I was never in a position to take a beating as I managed to swim safely from the clutches of white water wishing to deposit me into the bank of North Shore Reef.
Dave Richards here got a few crackers, this angle does not let you fully comprehend the size of the wave, it was bloody big and bloody powerful, 4 frames and half a second later I was sucking in air and heading for safety below the ocean.
My body is quickly learning the paces I’m going to put it through and is fighting back with cramps, I will conquer it and I will come back with the gold.
Till the next deposit in your mailbox
Mahalo
Aloha,
What a day What a day, I’m ready for bed but I endevour to bring to you your daily fix of North Shore activities.
Two water session make for very tired muscles & since tomorrow is expected to be bigger bra (just a little inside info, it’s always expeced to be bigger) I need the ability to take another 6 wave 5ft - set on the head in 3 feet of water. Fun & Games.
Another warning, when Gavin Roberts jokes about going for airs before the session begins & states he will be aiming for your head, he is not joking.
This is how it went down :
* 1st Wave cracker turn infront of me, shot in the bag
* 2nd wave air attempted rail grab, lost board, board in the head, no gath.
That is how I have an egg which hurts when I chew.
Every session in the water makes for better photos in the bag and since my new 500mm only arrives on Friday we have a few more sessions to full up the trough before the option to join the 40 other Canon wielding photogs on the shore commences.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Glad to report I haven’t gotten myself into any further trouble, yet! Yesterday it was my turn to have someone get in my way but do you think i went ballistic on his Hawaiian ass? NO i just shrugged it off and said no worries brudda!
Shot Rockies again this morning & again error 99. However I feel I have full resolved it this time, for those in the know turn auto power off if you are constantly having the same problem.
But i did get to make some nice new friends, even if only for a few minutes. I came in & needed a towel to dry off the housing before opening, don’t want water drops inside, i do not want fogging to be my next issue. I so nicely asked some lovely ladies if i could use their towel and in the process has a nice conversation with a few tiny tots explaining to them the finer workings of a camera.
Saw Jack Johnson on land & in the water, alas he escaped the view of my fisheye.
Surfed again today, Backyards is a good playground. Attempting airs is my new thing, no matter how spastic they look. Bottom turning over 1ft of water with rockboils being your next best friend is quite scary, however I have not been dinging my borrowed board, whoever says that is telling utter filth and lies.
Oh ya, for the first time I woke at 5am to hear the rumble of the ocean, ITS ON!! bigger stuff expected tomorrow.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Doesn’t it just aggrivate you when something brand new gives you problems. Brand spanking new fisheye lens causing “error 99”. Not once but twice, twice i tell you and not in a place where you want to be having such problems.
However don’t you love it when you think you have lost something and then you find it. One of my fins got ripped off my foot whilst swimming in due to the first episode of “err 99”. After beaching myself i saw said fin bobbing in the foamie. On que i pranced into the water, the Hoff would have been proud.
This was at Rockies, before first error and fin loss. It was somewhat shifty but live & learn. At least I got wet on the North Shore again.
First proper day in Hawaii yesterday and already causing trouble. A small altercation with what i can only assume was a local getting aggrivated by the haoulies encroaching on HIS North Shore. It was a case of paddle left get in the way, paddle right get in the way, push under hit the rocks so hope he goes straight over. He could have gone straight over but he kooked it and blamed it on me, I apologised & got a mouthful. F*** off don’t F***ing paddle here, what the F*** is your problem, F*** F*** F***. I figured best apologise and paddle in the opposite direction. I still had
good waves.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Just for those who thought I might be lying about being in Hawaii . . here is my proof.
Two 10hour cattle class flights straight after each other makes for fantastic jet lag.
Mahalo
BON DIA, 2 DA BENG
Okay I have connectivity at the airport waiting to head to Dallas and so happy for Mick have I become I had to get out one final postcard from Brasil, besides an action image has not featured in this set of cards.
Now that the chapter of Slater VS Irons is good and closed here are my predictions. I want theM noted and down on paper so to speak.
The NEW battlE for the ASP Championship = Mick VS Jordy
Jordy will crack top 10 in his first year on tour, 2008.
Jordy will crack top 5 in his second year on tour, 2009.
Jordy will be bringing the championship to South Africa in 2010.
It has been noted now let it unfold.
Till Hawaii tomorrow, or 3:30 Saturday morning SA time, as we say in Imbituba . . . TO DA BENG.
2DaBeng2DaBeng
Why was I emotional yesterday? I witnessed the end of an era. My hero growing up, the guy I wanted to surf like but never could so I opted to photograph him instead. The guy who made me realise my name was COOL!!
I had goose bumps watching Slater walk out the water after Round 4, besides the Pipemasters in December I doubt we will be seeing him don a contest jersey on a regular basis from 2008 onwards.
But see that smile there on his face, that makes it all ok for me. To see how stoked he is for Mick, so happy to hand over the reigns to a worthy contender. Then listening to Mick at his small & intimate press conference I was moved to borderline tears listening to him describe how although he isn’t all “spiritual n stuff” he ended up talking to a dolphin who could have been his brother who passed on when he was 17. There were dolphins in the contest area for the last two days and in the final it was circling Mick & Parko.
I fought the tears, I swapped them for cold shivers.
Enough of my soft side. Hawaii in 2 sleeps baby! North Shore here I come. Pecking order of water photogs, I have shots to take and money to make. I will earn my place amongst you. If not I will return to SA ten shades darker.
The next postcard will be from Hawaii . .
oh and this is my favourite girl from my entire stay in Brasil, she was absolutely smoking. Or to be polite, she was gorgeous with a nice peachy bum.
In advance, from Hawaii . . . Aloha
I’m too emotional to type anything.
Say hello to the 2007 Fosters ASP World Champion Mr. Michael Eugene Fanning
