Aloha,
I often have to tell people not to confuse confidence with being cocky, today I was not too sure about myself. Was I being confident because I am learning more from every swim at OTW and Backdoor or was I being cocky because after 3 hours of swimming I hadn’t taken a single beating.
I was leaving the swim under as late as possible to get the best photo. At times I was letting the wave break over mesince it was barreling enough to do so. But towards the end I was getting nervous because nothing had happened & started thinking it was time to go in before something did.
Today even Mr. Achiner didn’t pull rank on me as he did the other day. Pulling rank was nothing verbal or physical, he just flexed his muscles and powered past me to get a shot, his legs are like propellers. Today he just said hey hows it going. I must have been doing something right.
I love this angle but it doesn’t give a proper indication of wave size. Not sure who this chap is either, seems to be the story of my swims.
Pipe Masters actually got waves today, barrells at Pipe AND Backdoor. There were some serious rides going down, it was fantastic seeing the water angle of a well ridden Backdoor.
Swell outlook appears very bleak for the next few days.
Good on ya Steph for taking the Womans World title, Good on ya Rosie for knocking out Lima, now do the sam to Abooobooo.
Till tomorrow . . there was no hangover this morning.
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