Aloha,
Santa brought me a Starbucks card, let the battle begin. Foodland French Vanilla or Starbucks Egg Nog Latte with the pretty counter girls.
Why can’t anything come together, is it to test my patience or make me better appreciate it when the waves do actually get good and I swim away with gold on the card? Swell around this morning but wrong direction, unless I went to V-Land but I didn’t and don’t really want to.
It was good for a few hours but I didn’t shoot, wasted my time waiting for a phone call.
Moved into my own room today, YEEHAA, bags unpacked so no more living out of a wheelie bag for me, atleast for another 6 weeks that is. And in those 6 weeks please oh please let me score it good, I need the money shots.
Sunset got to redeem itself this arvo. With a 6’9 under my arms I stroked my way out to the lineup with Brent who was talking himself up but walked the walked when he paddled into a sizey one straight off the bat. Well done Brent. Time ticked by but I eventually got onto one, it sure is difficult swinging around a sizey board so I just gunned for the channel. It wasn’t heavy Sunset but it was fun Sunset never the less and earns abetter review in my book of opinions.
Yes it is a very thick book.
So in honour of my Sunset Surf you get a Sun Set with a surfer.
Until tomorrow . . when you see other postcards, imitation is the highest form of flattery. Or is it compliment. This is the real deal baby.
Mahalo
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