Sunday, August 16, 2009

Postcards from Hawaii : 040207

Aloha,

It's Sunday evening and I have salt in my ears. YES competition commenced and I braved the beauty of Pipe.

Trusted Sponge Jack (I have given the sponge a name and Bob was already taken) was put to use and this is the result. I will admit . . I was scared when I first paddled out. For those who saw me sitting alongside the shoreline for a good 360 seconds I WAS waiting for the heat siren to go off. I was NOT saying a few quick words to the fairies.

Everything was all good. The housing only hit me in the head twice and I only got sucked over the falls once and I only got in the way of a surfer once. Wiggolly was cool about it so I wont count him as twice. Upon going feet first over the falls the camera dislodged so I had to head in and reseat it. Made my way out again got some crackers then proceeded to get too close to the barrel rider and well, I did apologise.

He was probably thinking damn foreigners.

As you can surmise Round Two took place today and not soon enough. No sooner had heat 16 finished when the wind blew Pipe to crap again. As I sit here tinkering away I hear waves pounding and no wind. Can you say glassy in the morning?

Good night all.

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