Aloha,
Got to sleep in today, early morning surf check revealed flat, well small conditions. I even clocked in a surf, warm super glassy water at Backyards. I’m gonna start surfing with some swim goggles for a spot of reef viewing inbetween sets, and when those sets are very few and very far between that makes for lots of breath holding.
My surf wasn’t the best but after you watch Trilogy and Young Guns III for the the third time you try a few things. I managed a pull out pop the tail rail grab air. Felt cool, probably looked very kooky. Do you think I care, do rotten bananas taste good? Yes they do in Banana Bread but I didn’t care.
Go rock jumping at Waimea Bay, its pretty fun when jumping into about 4 feet of water. Compress, just remember to compress. There is a tunnel you can swim through under the giant rock, seems quite daunting before you do it and then it’s twiddly sticks after that, you might even get too confident. Also wintessed some activities saved for the nocturnal times brought into the public view, tsk tsk tsk.
The next three days are meant to be excellent, favourable winds, new swells arriving. I just might be bringing you those deep barrell shots I’ve been longing for, but that means bobbing with every uncle and his hydro-fins in the lineup . . . it’s all good.
Till tomorrow . . as I do in Hawaii, leave the toilet seat down.
Mahalo
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