Aloha,If there was ever a song titled "surfing like a kook in a tank top" it would be the theme song for the day. Surfing boards which are not your own SUCKS & does not aques as to your request of pleasing the hallowed North Shore ocean. However . . . it is a far cry better from being a scurveyd land lubber.
Today I did the chicken run, literally! Apologies to all lovers of our featherd friends. The chicken run under the car, it was not my fault he was under great duress of living in Hawaii and not being able to surf. Dropped the kids off this morning, yes I played moms taxi. It's a simple request for the great pleasure of being in Hawaii.
Did I mention I am in Hawaii?
Today I ventured into the great chamber known as Pipeline. I won't like, I was scared. Very scared. It's not until you are bobbing over the reef which was once molten lava millions of years ago that you appreciate the sheer intensity of this place. Be it either the foreigner like myself or the local fighting for his share of what he is by birth right entitled to.
And as you can see my first venture into the Pipe was fruitful. I can give you one word of warning . . DON'T GET COCKY over this sacred reef. I thought I had it wired since I had been floating and ducking and diving everything from foamballs to the spit balls of the locals. That was until the ground below me sensed the relaxation in my awareness and sent forth one small wave to knock the s*** out of me and pull me over the falls re-instilling the fear which had only moments ago vanished.
I have it from a good source that the swell is on a rise (the 2006 Mavericks Champion wouldn't like would he?)
Until then . . I bid you a good night.
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