Aloha,
PADDLE !! That is what i screamed, screaming does not sound manly so I will say I enthusiastically shouted to Dan the Man Redman just before taking a lip on the head. But you see, this time I didn’t have my helmet, this time I had TWO fins and this time I was a little wiser. I avoided the beating Dan recieved, it was the first time I actually feared for a life other than my own. I seriously thought we would be splitting his boards amongst us. Dan has become a photo sl*t and was going for the heaving pit shot, all he got was a lip on the head and a 5 wave smashing. He made it up with some smoker barrels this arvo.
So good are my new fins I get cramps when powering through the fingers of a backdoor Grinch. It’s not so fun having your legs seaze on you mid swim, I survived though, learning more every swim.
It was the Eddie Aikau cermony today and we have a South African invitee for the first time since the events inception. Quite an honourable feet, lets see if Jason can blow the competition away, Souf Efrika style.
The Lizzards leave on Sunday so I will be finding a new home to live in and have a new batch of guys to shoot silly.
As we keep saying in Hawaii . . Hey Bra go buy some bog roll and beers.
Mahalo
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