Aloha.
Good thing I had some practice taking a few on the head out at Backyards yesterday. Today the swell picked up and today I swam out and today I took a few more on the head. This time meaty ones on the head, the kind which make you rethink your logic in being out there, the kind which test your lung capacity. That is until you calm down and begin to figure out the lineup.
The intial paddle out was ok, it wasn’t a piece of cake but it wasn’t scary either. The first set to catch me off guard taught me a big lesson, don’t get caught off guard. Staring up at an 8ft slab of water about to implode upon my head I remembered the words of
Van the man “Don’t try swim under rather just take a beating and swim back out”. Bugger this I can swim under, WHAM on the head and the first test of the left lung, second wave WHAM on the head first test of the right lung. Okay Van must have spoken wise words, I took the beating tested both lungs kept telling myself to calm down relax your ok.
Next thing I was swimming like an Olympic Champion and out back again. This time round I was never in a position to take a beating as I managed to swim safely from the clutches of white water wishing to deposit me into the bank of North Shore Reef.
Dave Richards here got a few crackers, this angle does not let you fully comprehend the size of the wave, it was bloody big and bloody powerful, 4 frames and half a second later I was sucking in air and heading for safety below the ocean.
My body is quickly learning the paces I’m going to put it through and is fighting back with cramps, I will conquer it and I will come back with the gold.
Till the next deposit in your mailbox
Mahalo
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