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Ola,
I’ve written this 68hrs in advance but doing a slight re-write before breakfast before leaving.
Two months of Euro Tripping have taken their toll me. A few kilos heavier & a greater discontent towards humanity & my severe pregnant woman mood swings have left me in dire need of a proper cuppa tea. Mom put the kettle on get the 5 Roses Black Spiced Chai tea. I’M GOING HOME.
In the last two days I have come to accept two things. I c0cked up my “60 seconds with Slater” shoot. I never boosted the ISO rating & thus it all came out seriously underexposed, but it was a gloomy day and the pull back achieved in Photoshop ties in with that gloomy effect. That is what I am telling myself. I have also come to terms with the fact my reverse angle crapped out on me & in doing so I am sure a few old sea dogs have cottoned on to the Pocket Wizard angle, we shall see at the upcoming events. But I now know, use fresh recharged batteries EVERY time.
Kirstin & I went into the Euro leg with one goal in mind, shoot these disgruntled naysayers out the water. By the numerous complements we have received I think we achieved just that!
Well done all round.
I have three weeks at home before Machu Pichu, Peru, Hawaii, maybe Canada, Australia & then back home in March 2009.
Until then . . . how can you fly like an eagle with feathers clipped like a parrot?
Ola,
10hrs45mins & counting till I am outa here. Sorry but I am ready for home, 3 weeks to recharge my travel batteries & then I hit the road for 4 months. Do you blame me? HAHA I hear you cries.
This is San Juan de Gaztelugatze, it is a tiny island on the coast of Biscay belonging to the municipality of Bermeo in the Basque Country. On top of the island is a Hermitage dedicated to San Juan, it dates to the 10th century possibly the 9th. The small church is usually closed (it was today) & dates back as far as the island & appears to have come from the Knights Templar. It has been witness to numerous fires, attacks and ransackings but today stands proud 200 and something steps above sea level.
**all information gathered from wikipedia**
If you think this is great you should see the 20 and 10 frame stitches I have done. Thanks for the idea Casino, it makes up for the raw steak you have served me night after night.
It rained all day and I packed my bags in an hour.
Yes I am excited to be going home.
Until tomorrow . . winner winner chicken dinner.
Toodaloo
Ola, HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM
This is Mundaka from the water. Real old school architecture with a deep rooted history. Just walk through the skinny streets to feel it.
Not sure if it was a special day or a first weekend of the month tradition but yesterday if you were hungry and had an appetite for fish you just had to pop down to the harbor. There in the baking sun were trays of sardines on the braai. FOR FREE!! You give away complimentary sardines in Durban and you will have a queue stretching from Pheonix to the airport with flights from Deli completely sold out. Now I am not a crazy fan of fish nor sardines, in fact I would never have eaten them if I had to pay for them but they were so salty that if left in the sun any longer it would have been sardine biltong.
Never the less I enjoyed them with the white wine, complimentary too but I smelt like the harbor for the rest of the day. Even after showering.
Didn’t do much today, caught up on a few emails etc etc and procrastinated some more while fully embracing the siesta tradition.
Until tomorrow . . tell me 5 things you like about my body.
Adios
Ola,
Picture it, your last victory was 3 years ago. You’ve never won a World Title despite being touted as a sure fire thing upon qualifying for the tour & only achieving runner up status twice despite being a 2X Jnr. World Champion & you have a style so slick it makes spreading melted butter look difficult.
I’ve been trying to write this for too long and each sentence is coming out forced.
Enjoy the photo.
Until tomorrow . . I am outa here in 68 hours.
Ola,
This is what winning is all about. Happy Days Happy Faces. CJ Hobgood – 2008 Billabong Pro Mundaka Champion. Possibly the last Mundaka Champion.
We only needed 4hrs. 20 minutes into the first heat of the day, Quarterfinal No.1 we didn’t think it was going to happen. “Swell is dropping quick, tide not dropping quick enough”. That was the locals call. Obviously he doesn’t have LOLA on his side, she told contest directors its good to go. Even if it wasn’t the boys wanted it done.
And finish in style it did. Four Quarterfinals, Two Semifinals & 15 minutes later the final was taking place in all time Mundaka. Barrel for barrel one Backside one Front side Screw side CJ & Joel were surfing possibly the last Billabong Pro Mundaka final EVER.
60 seconds to go Joel blocks CJ with priority, the wave is ok. CJ then strokes onto the 8 point something gift from above. Only the whistles from the cliff indicted there were two waves in that set, if only Joel knew he should have taken the second. Imaging leading for 34 minutes only have what could have been your first victory in 3 years stolen from you. I’m sure I would also have bypassed all do gooders and words of sympathy to make my way up the slippery stairs & smash my head into the window, punch the walls & vocally vent my anger all while the poor medics sitting in the room turn their backs as an offering of privacy.
Work done, images out party time. Hit Bar Txopos, the only bar, the local bar. Getting one drink at a time proved to be futile so it was a jug of Sangria I walked around with until my hand got sore it hit 3AM and I wanted my bed.
No hangover today, yes this is for yesterday so I could do another to show the looser. Why do we refer to someone as the looser when they place 2nd, one place behind the winner but 31 ahead of those who couldn’t make it past Round 2 & received an equal 33rd. No, not the looser but the other finalist.
Incase you don’t understand this photo, it is tradition in Mundaka to toss the winner off the harbor wall.
Until next time . . . Like WOW.
Ola,
It’s over K9LLY SLATER or the weird symbol proclaiming 9 world titles is official. He is smiling now but if you were blind & had someone describing to you his level of ecstasy at rewriting the history books yet again you would be forgiven for thinking it was a bed time story you were being read.
I lost sleep over today, the thought of missing this shot or that shot & the only reason the photos don’t reflect the emotion of a World Title is because there wasn’t much.
But I am suffering from mood swings equivalent to that of a pregnant woman, I got hailed on in Mundaka, I got wetter than a drowned rat & my feet felt like ice-blocks & I’ve been Euro Tripping for close on two months. I’ve had enough I’m ready for home & a PROPER cuppa tea. YES I am a spoilt traveler.
I did however witness my surfing hero claim number 9. Does he need 10? I have two answers for that & not enough space left. But I did get this exclusive photo op despite Slaters “f*** did you miss all the photo ops” when I asked him to do the finger thing. I got it though!
The contest WILL finish tomorrow, the boys want it done with.
Until tomorrow . . contest wrist bands decapitate nipples.
Ola,
Mundaka Udala delivered, & it delivered good!!
Despite being unceremoniously pissed upon from the skies above throughout the day thus having one of only two pairs of jeans & shoes soaking I was in high spirits. But that was only after I figured lets give the 500mm a go from the boat. And that was only after someone suggested it. And that was after I hadn’t thought about it despite spending so much on a good lens with stabilizer.
Never the less I digress.
Royden scored the barrel of the day to receive a perfect 10, his only 10 in his entire surfing career. Not bad at all.
The morning started out crap that’s for sure. Pretty much none of the shots from the morning session were useable.
The dual format system was used much to my & many peoples delight. Did you know a few people wanted to use it in Jeffreys but it was given thethumbs down by the people who now rave about it. We could have had a final in glorious conditions!
Anyway. tomorrow is a big day. Many shooting decisions need to be made. I think it’s somewhat assumed K9lly will happen. He has a wildcard but wildcards have proved his Achilles heel in the past. We shall see, I shall see live & in person thus being one with history.
Until tomorrow . . there is not a single good photo on the ASP website. HAHA naysayers make me laugh, they obviously didn't hear our compliments.
Ola,
Okay it’s official, the Billabong Pro Mundaka is on. Just incase you were one of the many who were confused by the reports of it being cancelled & then reading withdrawal statements regarding their inaccuracy.
It’s back on & today Round 1 ran at Sopolana, I won’t even bother you with the crud that was on offer, all you need to know that it is now officially known at Slopelana & I am begging Mundakaka not to fail me now.
Imagine knowing the world loves you, Imagine knowing your peers hate you. Imagine knowing you were only one point away from a ninth world title. Imagine knowing you are now only one heat away from a ninth world title. Imagine waking up every morning knowing you are K9lly Slater. Imagine knowing your hair will never grow back and it just makes your more marketable.
Slam me with propaganda, slam me with biased opinions but when you can pull a 9.00 & a 7.33 out of the bag in onshore 3 foot mush then you can sing me your version of imagine.
I didn’t have any worthwhile photos to show off today. No wait I do but they are too good for postcards!!
This new processing technique of mine is going to be my dead goldfish. You the kind, we all had one, you love it so much, you poke it with your finger till it eyes budge & swims upside down. Yes, this processing is going to my gold fish of Photoshop.
Until tomorrow . . I have no background in surfing I just make photos
Ola,
It’s Kirstins birthday today so Happy Birthday let the grey set in.
This is S’l’opelana. I have seen photos of this place firing so this sloppy lineup doesn’t do it justice but it does show off what a fantastic backdrop it can provide. The call was at 8am this morning, we were provided a map on how to get to Sopelana. We didn't get there with the map.
I will never doubt the GPS again & you can be guaranteed that tomorrow we will get there in 30 minutes. Tomorrow looks like it will be a go as the latter part of the week Mundaka is looking promising.
What started off as one photo has turned into a little project I have fallen into, it is fantastic and the resultant photos are too good to be shown on a postcard. It is bringing me the joy that I have never found in doing portrait work, perhaps that is because I only need my subject for 30 seconds.
We are all going out for dinner to celebrate Kirstins 27 years of Hatch Day so I need to get joojed up and practice my Ola Scenorita.
Until tomorrow . . Es Ka De Gas Koo
Ola,
Straight off the bat, Yes, there is a bit of trickery going on here but it was the only way I could show off something I have become very fond of doing. Panoramas, stitching anywhere from 5 to 28 photos together is quite fun. And then turning them into nifty black and whites is the Apple Pie.
I just might send out two today you never know because I am making up for yesterday.
We drove down to Mundaka yesterday, a feat which should have been simple but proved a slight headache. A good lunch in Biarritz turned into a u-turn festival. The GPS wanted to take me where I wanted to go but the French deem it fit to block ALL main roads in the city and then close all petrol stations so those sniffing fumes better get their tekkies on.
It is beautiful weather in Mundaka, The Basque Country today but alas no surfing going on and tomorrow is an 8am call at Sopelena the backup venue because Back to Bakio Pro was just not an option. Lets just hope it does not become a Slopelena Pro.
This the Mundaka Harbor, that jetty effort below is where the winner gets tossed off, I am certain we will be seeing K9lly Slater being thrown into the waters of Mundaka to be baptized a 9X World Champion.
The food has been good this year so far. Let us see how long it stays that way.
Until tomorrow . . OLA
Bonjeur,
It is time to bid farewell to France for another year, maybe more who knows.
Started with a Hot Rock ala French Style, it was fantastic apart from the sauce that looked good but tasted not so good. It was Tar Tar Sauce. Who has fish sauce with steak? The BBQ mixed with the Cheese sauce made up for the poor French palette.
I did say there is always an A$$hole everywhere in the world & always two in France. Well yesterday on a fun surf Kirstin had a run-in/paddle-in with one particular small penis syndrome ASP Europe photographer who decided to drop in on anyone & everyone with the excuse that this is his country & he can do what he likes. Try your leash pulling and water splashing frog antics in Africa Mr. Poenoet and see where it gets you. I however surfed a quieter peak up the beach & had fun on the little biscuit of a board I borrowed.
This is the Hossegor town square with a giant wave mural splashed on the side of a flats building. They had a Tony Hawk skate demo here, I missed it because parking was like finding a Dodo bird in the Arctic. It also played home to the main event site which saw absolutely no action what so ever, which is a pity because it was a rather nice one at that.
Down to Mundaka today with a start only looking set for Wednesday. At least Round 2 has been abandoned, unlike Mundaka.
Until tomorrow . . Oh yes this was to make up for yesterday, someone ship me a proper cuppa tea please.
Bonjeur,
Finally I got to use my gadgets for one of the main reasons I bought them & made the cable I needed because I refuse to pay 1000 hairy lama testicles for a cable. Pocket Wizards my friends are just like sleeves of wizard, FANBLOODYTASTIC. You see me right below the word right, I was in the crowd firing my remote camera rigged to the scaffolding. Damn Frenchies, always two assholes remember, started to have too much of a close gander at my setup so I would fire it off & chuckle as they nearly fell backwards & then proceeded to stare into the crowd for the trigger finger. That & get two different angles at the same time. Who said you couldn't be in two places at once?
The French fans are some of the most hectic as well as the most beautiful, they turn up in their thousands.
What did I do today, I cracked a 500 Euro note, just imagine holding R5500 in your hands in one note. Scary. I picked up my washing, no more unchoshure recycling of undies, never leave home in a dirrty pair. Went for a swim in the chilly waters of France, hell I am unfit.
Had a pizza Hans Solo style. Oh and I met a Swedish girl while having coffee. Had two cups just so I stay longer in the hope of those two biddies next to hear leaving so I could chat longer. But alas it didn't happen so I will be frequenting the coffee sop tomorrow at the same time at the same table. YOU NEER KNOW.
I am a fan of Steve Shermans work and I figured out his nifty little processing trick to get this look. It is way easier than you may think.
Until tomorrow . . remember there are always two.
Toodaloo
Bonjeur,
Every story as two sides, but what about the edges? Taj looses Ace wins K9lly is put on hold but lost in the scrum. The final was won by the better surfer of those 35 minutes. Don't get me wrong I am all for K9LLY but even his 8 point ride I felt was slightly over scored.
Right down the final seconds Slater was trying to pull it out the bag, had it been 5 minutes longer and he would have willed a 10 pointer to himself. His last wave only score a 2 something but the announcers were making such a fuss in French that I didn't know who won. No one was hoisting him on their shoulders & we couldn't see him amidst the scrum for a touch of Kelly. Then there, out the corner of my right eye up comings Ace. That's who won. Only the 2nd Top 45 surfer to beat him in 2008. And a deserved winner he was/is.
I saw him later in the night after I left the rock food (side note : i needed someone to party with but all faded - that's the story im sticking to) & he was off his trolly in true Aussie style. His head was surely paining a few hours later.
Until tomorrow . . wherever you are in the world there will always be an asshole. In France there will always be two.
Chow
Bonjeur,
I'd like to say I planned the postal strike so I could show you 3 photos at once but I've been enjoying my time off after ridiculous 12hr work days. Yes I hear you chiming in my ear "your job is not a job". That's why find a job you enjoy and you will never work a day in your life.
It's been a case of so close yet so far for Taj Burrow. For the last two years 'that' trophy, the title, the honor has been within a heats reach yet it's always just out of reach, one air short one barrel pinched on floater flopped.
Mathematically Taj still has an outsiders chance but there are too many this must happen that must happen this person must get food poisoning and that person must fall through their ass. The title is Slaters again, its just a matter of spit polishing the trophy for handover.
A bit upset it didn't go down in France but I spose it adds a touch of flair to Mundaka.
Until the next 10 minutes . . it's it a matter of when not if. Ace waited 3 years for his first win, Taj can wait a little longer for his first title. Perhaps after K9lly Slater goes for number 10?
Bonswarey
Bonjeur,
Yes it is difficult to read this from the postcard but that is why everything is in the email.
I woke up this morning feeling sick to my stomach about the chances of the World Title going down today. Got out of bed had my shower packed my bags and proceeded to have a lie down, this just after getting out of bed.
No World Title went down but Slater did let a wildcard think he would be the one to get one over him. By his own admission he was rattled by the thought of clinching a 9th World Title so my queezy stomach was for due reason.
This is the chaos that surrounds the man, the enigma, the legend, the King that is Kelly Slater. I want it on paper, I think the marketing wheels will spin out K9LLY SLATER.
All these people bitching about Slater winning all the time is burning my balls. It is simple, he wins all the time because there is just no one else as good. All the other surfers that bitch about him and say he must retire why don't they up their game and start winning some heats, work their way into the red jersey and start smashing K9LLY in the finals. Maybe they should all go back to being wildcards as it seemsthose are the only ones hungry enough to rattle him.
Just a little bit of surf nerd info - Slater has earnt $1.7 million dollars in career winnings, a career spanning more than 10 years. Tiger Woods wins half that in one tournament. Slater has a valid reason to have his rants and raves. How about the industry mafia putting their pockets where their mouths are and let the big spenders splash in the pond. Because that's all it is right now, a pond in the ocean.
Until tomorrow . . It is not a new World Champion, it is a re-crowning of the foundation.
Toodaloo
Bonjeur,
Why? Because I can.
This makes up for yesterdays postal strike.
It was a lay-day so I spent an hour of the morning getting my work done and then the rest of the day phaffing around. Should have renamed my archives from the event but you know my middle, third & fourth name is Procrastination.
I still haven't turned my iPOD into a semi-phone yet. After figuring out the back tracking method of downgrading the upgrades I achieved the installation of the old version of what I needed. Then proceeded to install the sip-voip from touchmods which now freezes during setting. All too complicated? I thought so too.
Tomorrow(today) will be on, could a world title go down? You will find out in 5 minutes.
Until tomorrow . . . it is rude not to look.
Toodaloo
Bonjeur,
I am a fan of Jihad (pictured)! Not because my first full page print in Surfing Magazine was a commissioned portrait, not because he "love you for free", not because he "wants to make better friend with Kelly", not because he bothers to show up for his do or die heat when a 3X World Champion is AWOL for "there is no official reason, the ASP has not from . . . he has not contacted us", not because he calls me his friend unlike the other TOP 40 (yes there are 45), not because he was previously banned from traveling in the US of A due to his name BUT because he KNOWS his granny could have won that heat and he also drinks Tequila.
Oh if only I could repeat the goings on of today, rumour mills working overtime.
Conditions were better this morning, just go look at the event website, oh yes sorry that's right, they don't use our photos rather go look at the ASP Website.
Not a single pair of baggets today, that must be because it is Holy Sunday. God created the birthday suit I remind you!! Still lots of lovelies to distract me from a layback snap here, a bottom turn there, a barrel ride here & a hook over there.
It might be on tomorrow, it might not. We will find out at 8:30AM.
Until tomorrow . . I forgot what Kirstin said but it was a good one liner.
Toodalooo
Bonjeur,
I'm becoming a big fan of this Reynolds guy. Not because of his surfing, yes it is good, but because he just doesn't care. What he doesn't care about I don't know, I don't care. I arrived mid-interview to hear him proclaim he didn't care, that's cool. It's also cool that he grows a beard, a ginger beard at that! He makes winning look sad.
What I do care about is some silly French Frog setting up in front of me after I'd been shooting a heat already. "I have 600mm + 1.4X", Waves are small so it doesn't matter you must move next to me. Then he shows me an over the top tight crop & proclaims "Good Photos yes". No mate. Photo showing hair on right testicle, crap photo yes, photo showing full size of small wave, good photo yes. And then there was the Bean Pole but he listened to me.
Along with the crowds come the girls, along with the girls come sleazy paparazzo style bum and boob shots. Yes I took them.
Slater had me worried for a second, 5 minutes to go needing 5 something in Round 2 & looking a bit wobbly. Why do I worry, Why? No problem Kelly he telepathically said to me, here is an 8 for your worries.
Until tomorrow . . "it would be an insult if you came to the beach and no one tried to chat up your girlfriend"
Trrrrrre Bien
Bonjeur, Ca Va?
Ca Va TreBien.
Say hello to Kelly Cestari the 2X Non ASP World Champion. Two in a row, last year in Brasil when Mick won & now in France where Should Kelly Slater win and his nearest rival get dealt a horrible hand of Round 2 I have held this fantastic trophy.
Arrived back in France on Wednesday, I love Taxis. No chance was I walking a kilometer with a 31kg bag. Gotta love taxis & expense claims at that!
London was London, wet, cold overcast, tan fading florecent lights. Back in France I can look forward to Croissants, testing my new found mastery of the French language in zee Fwench accent, "Baggets" on the beach and the beauty that is the French girls.
Oh, when you travel somewhere make sure you book a taxi online. Kirstin & I nearly had the honour & highly exorbitant expense claim from driving a Merc SLK soft top 'cos a Mini would just have been too small. If you don't book a rental the next best thing is the small local rental companies that has no queue at their counter . . . they always have cars.
Until tomorrow . . Greg Ewing got excited over a digital camera !! HAHA if only I'd recorded that 2005 conversation in Jeffreys Bay.
Howzit Sir,
Yes a Braai slash BabrieQueue in London. It stopped raining & the sun shone. We got some burgers, some vino, some buns & I got some lemon liqueur which no one else liked so I’m sipping on ice-cold lemons right now.
Russell is now a self proclaimed Michelin rated Braai Master. The chef is only a small fraction of the cooking equation – there is no I in Team but there is a ME.
I am becoming a Sudoku Addict, only because I can actually solve the problems now. I have a MENSA approved Sudoku. It took 10 minutes to figure out how to turn it back on once turned off. Very Mensa Like.
Hard to believe but its only 6 weeks till Hawaii time. The exact duration of the Triple Crown Stress Session. Things to look forward to in Hawaii
* Backdoor
* Backyards
* White House Burgers
* Pipeline
* White House Burgers
* Kelly Sauce
* Starbucks
* Backdoor
* Bikinis
* 3 months of the little big rock.
Until tomorrow . . Patience was a virgin 28 years ago.
Good evening Sir,
Because I can & I got more than one acceptable night shot.
Until tomorrow . . we give it bit of a polish.
**in the Queens English** Good Day,
First things First . . HAPPY BIRTHDAY MURRY. 13, hells bells.
Aaaa I remember my 13th Birthday. Not because anything glamorous occurred butmore because my parents forgot it. Yes parentals you forgot my 13th Birthday for most of the day.
A little history on Big Ben. The name refers to the bell inside the tower. It took 16 horses to transport the bell to the tower on a trolley. It took 18hrs to lift the bell 200ft. Big Ben can in fact be considered a set of twins. The first bell cracked after nearly a year of use thanks to an excessively heavy hammer. A new bell was cast which also cracked. This crack remains as the bell was rotated to hide the crack & a smaller, lighter hammer used. The name is derived from Sir Benjam Hall or a heavyweight boxing champion named Ben Caunt.
Apart from proving me wrong in my statement that the sound is actually a recorded MP3 you gotta love Google. If only I bought shares in the beginning.
It apparently rained today. I was down south & there wasn’t a drop.
I head back to France next Wednesday, can’t wait actually as I need a bit of sand between my toes even though I hate the stuff.
As Kelly Slater won his 5th event this year, 5 of 7 so far, it creates the possibility that he can win his unprecedented 9th World Title in France. If he does it is going to be chaos as the Frenchies truly love the King. If he does & i get hold of a particular lens you will be seeing an image no-one else on that beach will be getting, yes they will get the same fraction of time but now how I want to do it. If I don’t get that lens I will still be getting an angle no one else will.
Until tomorrow . . You are not the best by thinking your the best.
Good day,
Last night witnessed a miracle. No the French did not end the world by splitting atoms. In fact their machine will take a few year to be in full 100% complete, yes I was aiming for the redundancy, working order & only then will they accomplish their goal. that’s if the Russians don’t beat them to it or the Americans don’t bomb them. Last night I didn’t procrastinate, I actually did what I intended to do. Albeit loosing interest and hour into it. Never the less I stuck to and got some night shots done.
I nearly didn’t though. My tripod base plate is permanently fixed to my big lens, the lens which would have been useless on this night expedition. So as I was setting it dawned on me, crumbs what am I to do now. As you can see I made a plan.
The secret brotherhood of photographers was in full force too. A nod a wink a hello as one by one we all walked past each other doing the same thing. Tripod in hand, laughing quietly at those who hand held long exposures unwittingly sizing up each others lenses. It’s not the size that counts its the quality of the glass. AR AR
After all that walking & I did a lot, I felt like a Starbucks. After my Grande Vanilla Latte on Tuesday I once again have the hankering for Starbucks. Alas the BuckStar closes before 11pm. “Well a Guinness will do nicely then” I thought. Nope sorry can’t have that either, bars close at 11pm. So a bottle of water and it was on the tube home with Sudoku keeping me company. I have one more night session in mind. We shall see if I get around to it.
Until tomorrow . . . don’t walk through the underground in a Pink Panther suit.
Allo good Sir,
Where’ve you been Gheeza?
After some rough calculations I left France last week Thursday. To stay in France on my own pocket would have been too costly. Add the fact I don’t have a surfboard with me I would have lost my marbles as I had already done after spending the better part of a week staring at the walls of my hotel room.
So I am back in the spare room of some friends in London.
Firstly thanks British Airways for banning surfboards . NOT. Thanks BA for not adhering to my policy of banning all children under the age of two from flying. Thanks BA for the upgrade to Business Class & then placing two 2-year olds in Business Class with me. Thanks British Airways!!
I had an itch and I had to scratch it. The itch being I wanted a hat, I wanted a cool hat. The scratch being going to Camden Town & buying one. Now with my three favorite items of apparel, The Wooly Lizzard Joompa, my seeing eye glasses and my Delboy hat, I will be hitting London town tonight.
No not for a spot of pint drinking but a spot of night time photography. Now that I have the gear I can do those cool night shots I’ve always wanted to do. And the fact it wont (shouldn’t) be raining tonight.
Until tomorrow . . The Man Manners still prevail
Bonjeur,
I have a theory, a theory as to why the French guys are perceived to be a collective of 'Poefs'. Yes this is a stereotypical collective but bare with me.
The French woman have no problem presenting themselves on the beach topless. The majority of these are older woman who have long lived past the self consciousness worn by the younger female collective however there are still those who garner a double take. It is these younger females from which my theory is derived.
Every male loves a pert breast, those who do not have it blatantly staring them in the face each time they go for a surf or beach stroll have a greater love for them. Thus it could be due to the fact that the French male sees said Pert Breasts on a day to day basis that he does not appreciate the full beauty of them. It could be this lack of greater appreciation that they wear 'Man Panties' otherwise known as the Speedo as if it were their form of the female breast. Along with their love for the Speedo they have unfathomable fashion sense, yes it is something most woman wished a man would have but they also agree that the Speedo is a poef thing. SO . . When you add the subconscious dress sense with the Speedo you have a "2 the power of 2" mathematical equation which in the end results in . . POEF.
It is a long winded theory of no scientific backing which has a counter argument on the basis that if a collective is presented with an offering on a day to day basis which they are not interested in it then why do the Americans flock to MacDonalds like non-Euro teenagers to the shores of France with the latest in sunglass fashion?
Until tomorrow . . this theory is not that of the Authorities.
Bye
Bonjeur,
This was the break the event ran at, Les Bordaines. The tide would be wrong in the morning so there was time for a croissant or two & a chocolatine or three. Just image a pastry with chocolate inside it, so much of deliciousness.
I have managed to borrow a board once or twice while being here but as we all know everyone likes their own gear. BUT getting wet was better than sitting in my hotel room which has become a regular past time of recent. Yes Yes Yes Bla Bla Bla.
Is it just me or when driving on the "wrong" side of the road do you find yourself drifting into the "right" side of the road. I believe it is the brain trying to correct your incorrect behavior. It's like those times when just as your falling asleep your body twitches. Do you know what that is? It is your brain thinking your body is shutting down/dying and thus it freaks out and jolts you awake. Your brain is still functioning but your body is not.
Until tomorrow . . after a week I finally had a cuppa T. Proper drinking tea!!
Aahvwaah
Bonjeur,
Wie I am bored so I am catching up on Postcards. Three, crumbs what a task.
This is for Saturday 30th gone by.
Went shooting with the Rose and Nicola Atherton. This little shorey peak is a bit up North from where the contest was held. Have no clue as to what its name was or is.
All I know is that if this wave was two feet bigger it would have been pretty damn fun but also deadly. A 3.5ft wave deadly? YES. See that broken Pier there, as the tide was rising these broken pieces of pier would become submerged and it became a game of "whose who going to become a Frenchkebab".
It was also stinking hot I remember that much.
Until the next catchup in 5 minutes . . .
I have a theory.
Aavwaa
Bonjeur,
Happy Gilmore is back on top. Metaphorically & Literally. Steph is ranked No.1 on the World Ratings again & as you can see on the shoulders of her peers.
But if like me your mind is not always above sea level you will instantly know why I could never distribute this photo for world media use. I looked at the thumbnails instantly thinking THAT's THE SHOT only to open it for processing & realized . . . SACREBLUEE!! As great as the French are for getting their bits out it's just not cricket for ethical World Media. Hell I would have loved to have sent it out but alas the fear of my head on a chopping block with big bosses holding the guillotine I held it back for YOUR, yes YOUR viewing pleasure.
I have to say it again, I love the French beach etiquette. If it wasn't rude to stare I would have, if it wasn't rude to stare through my 500mm paparazzi lens I would have done it on a more frequent basis.
Never the less you get the best shots when least expecting them.
Right now I should be out on the party at Creme Cafe with the rest of the workers but mini heart attacks over failed messages prevented me from such activities.
Until tomorrow . . sacreblue oo la la
Bonjeur,
I am writing this from memory, I didn't do it yesterday because I was tired but I did have a good photo but this is better.
These two were & the darling couple of Les Bordaines beach. The film crews, judges, commentators, photographers (yes me included) just couldn't get enough of them. There were even a few brave souls attempting to break their bond of female love. It was not happening. God Bless them.
The girls event started today (yesterday) and finished today (today 'cos remember I am writing this from memory).
It was a long day, 16 heats in total & I got a bit sun burnt. Girls like tattoos - don't let them tell you otherwise, Pepper was out in full swing. Yes 16 heats is normal for Day 1 of a guys event. But this was a girls event & the norm for Day 1 on a Woman's ASP World tour event is 8. Which is why we finished in two days (remember I am writing this a day late).
Long day at "the office" and then it was home and dinner. Remember when next you are in France - When you order 'De Boef' as Medium Rare you will be getting it virtually raw. Order it dead and it's heart will still be beating. Good beer though. My attempt at being French did not impress the posh waitress. Un Beir Pinte was responded with a "oo a pint of beer". Well excuse my poor French I bet jy kan nie die taal praat.
And then somehow dinner conversation turned to how much porn stars earn. apparently Jenna Jameson makes ten thousand dollars a scene while Ron Jeremy only makes 2000 dollars a scene. Yes girls bits a prettier but come on, where would blue movies be without the fuel I ask you.
Any way it was home to bed after the posh dinner.
Until tomorrow . . sacreblue they are gay? Yes - Embrace it.
Bonjeur,
Yes I probably have that spelling wrong.
Today was another chill day getting to know the layout. Yes I was here last year but as you know banks shift, event layouts change and besides, last year the RipCurl event was held in Santander - Spain this year it is in Les Bordains - France.
Thanks to British Airways I am now sporting a farmer brown vest tan because I am banned from traveling with surfboards. Well not just me but any ocean loving person who appreciates the joys of bobbing in sea salt. Perhaps if I carried a nine iron and putter I would be in happier circumstances but that is just my cynical humor because The Law of Attraction states I must think only happy thoughts.
Happy Thoughts Happy Thoughts. . . .
See that crowd down there, at least 15 of those humanoids are girls who have their kit out, of those 15 10 are worth a double look. Of those 10 at least 5 would have been gazed upon for far too long had I spotted them. Gotta love the French and their bare the boobs policy.
Just had dinner & who would have thought they would hear the words "it was a good fish dinner" coming from my mouth.
And to the right of that crowd, the far right is the event site, the site which becomes my office from tomorrow when in all likelihood Round 1 and 2 will be run which means at least 2 girls are going home empty handed.
And I have had the 4x4 removed from my possession, the ASP deemed it unfit for me to be driving such a man power on my own. Sniff Sniff
Until tomorrow . . . oooo la la
Bonjeur,
After four days in London I caught a taxi at just past five in the morning quickly shutdown any attempt the taxi driver had of chit chat with a quick snooze checked into my flight with a 30.5kg bag and was booted out of the business lounge despite, so much for gold card access. Nice Try she said. Arrived in Bordeaux was upgraded to a 4x4 rental because they knew they didn't have a small car which I booked, this after they tried to force my hand into paying for the upgrade. HAHA.
So here I am back in Hossegor for the Womans RipCurl event starting on Friday.
I would tell you about the horrendous journey that was my trip from South Africa to London but that would just attract more of it. Instead focus on the good and have a nice day, just as I did this morning after a wobbly last night. Not sure what it was but I got super ancy packing my bags.
Besides I am trying to keep these postcards clean of complaints but not nubiles like I saw at the beach during my quick visit down there today.
The green lines in this photo are actually cages for the mussel farmer, no not Russel.
Until tomorrow . . (1) observe the Law of Attraction (2) buy a GPS they are fanbloodytastic.
Orvwa
Howzit & yes this postcard is late.
I’m going to stick with the excuse that I was told the network had been shut down meanwhile it has been running all this time.
As you can see, Kelly Slater won AGAIN! Four out of Five, the man continues to make history despite being 36 years old and now that Occy has retired, or has he? since he is at 90% of the events, the oldest competitor & continues to win events “to keep the number above his age”.
The last time I covered and ASP event was back in Brasil when Slater handed over the world title reigns to Mick Fanning & proceeded to declare you we wont be seeing much of him on tour. That was nine months ago and now I was shooting the prize giving of the fourth event he has won in 2008. The ONLY surfer in the ‘TOP 45’ to have won an event this year, Tahiti was won by a wildcard. Slater likes to play mind games I am guessing, going from you wont be seeing much of me to well yes I am thinking of the 9th World Title.
JBay has kept to a few traditions and then not some.
* Event started with a bang then fizzled then ended with a bang – stuck with tradition
* Kelly Slater won - somewhat of a tradition, it is his 4th win here, I think
* I got sick – tradition since last year
* I developed an Aussie twang – tradition since I cant remember when, I hang with em I gotta speak like em
* I ate a lot of crap – constant tradition
* the surf has not fired YET but Monday and Tuesday are looking set for tradition keeping – could stick to tradition
* and a new one was that my housemates laptop got stolen out of the house - Umm that is what door locks are for & hopefully something not to be repeated
I am here for another week, a week of surfing and not shooting, but plans always change.
My last night of frolicking ALONE in a Queen-size bed before relocating to a couch.
My next ASP Event takes me globe trotting back to France and Mundaka.
Until next time . . . words are words, actions apparently speak louder
Toodaloo
Hoe Gaan Dit Maaaaaaate,
To date Jeffreys is sticking with tradition. 1st strike was starting the rounds with a bang & thenfizzling out. 2nd strike was is me getting the flu, last year I almost married the porcelain bowl. Let
us hope that strike 3 will be Supers firing all of next week with everyone going home or leaving the
shores & then my mates & I can enjoy the lineup to ourselves. Last year it fired for two weeks straight
after the event finished.
Okay lets clear up the miscommunication from yesterday. There was no random frolicking in my queen-size
bed with me then proceeding to use my personal hygiene products for her armpits or moustache. It was
all a practical joke which the girls with whom I have sharing the house thought would be perfect for my
pedantic ness. Yes it worked, YES you are all barred from sharing my house again!!
Last night my flu kicked in so bad that I skipped dessert after the complimentary dinner. Today it is somewhat
alleviated.
This was the lineup in the morning, I added the mist with a little bit of camera trickery.
Four calls today and the contest was off. Tomorrow is going to be a jam packed action day.
Till tomorrow . . if you’re already rubberd up, jump right in.
Toodaloo . . MAAAAAAATE
G’day Bruu
I figured it was time to fight the cold so I burnt the plastic & purchased some rubber.
No I am not trying to be like Mr. Slater with his gloves during a heat. It is cold & I am combating the problem of finger lock when shooting in the water.
But as Murphy the sod would have it I go get the kit & the water warms up. Warm to the point that I was cooking in my nice new toasty suit yesterday.
And I also have the sniffles, I’ve cut my feet, I’ve banned ALL girls from my En Suite bathroom. Today was the final straw, WHO and I mean WHO uses someone else's razor!!! And I fear toothbrush but I wont ask about that for fear of loosing the plot. And all this from a GIRL!!!!!!!!
Competition has been off for the last three days, conditions not good enough for these pros. If that is the case you would think they would let us mere mortal surfers have some waves. NO they just paddle out in their droves and take any and everything.
Until tomorrow when we are most likely back ON . . . YES I AM PEDANTIC ABOUT MY PERSONAL HYGIENE GOODS.
Toodaloo
Howzit Maaaaate,
Yes my annunciation is still be affected by the Twang.
Brent, Dane Reynolds is out and get was knocked by a Brazzo. Come now Dane, the whole hippie thing rocks but skipping events due to mystery illnesses and then being outed by a B-Nut, tsk tsk. In Heitors fairness he did get the biggest wave of the day.
It fired all day, there were the quiet periods with long lulls, one of which I experienced while swimming for two hours. At one point a seal popped up in the lineup, I made sure it wasn’t one of the other sea creatures I wish not to see while wading in the wallows. Once I clarified that it was a seal, I attempted to communicate with it but it didn’t want to know, good thing or bad thing who knows. GHAAAR GHAAAR *clap hands doing that while donning 6mms of rubber*.
Tonight could be a large one, I doubt they will be running tomorrow as there are only two days left and there are two days of cooking surf expected next week, just check the charts. In fact . . THEY WILL NOT RUN TOMORROW and I get to surf and test out my new suit and do some shopping and eat healthy dinner and and and not be up at 6AM.
This is the view from water, as you can see, of the Key Hole. It is a gully which is so clean cut into the rocks it looks man made. But it is not and it is a fantastic paddle out spot despite the fact that on my first surf on Wednesday I snagged a few muscles and new ding in my board. BUT fear not I have two brand spanking new ones waiting for me!!
Until tomorrow . . you with the loud mouth . .BE QUIET.
Toodalooo
Gdaaaay Maaaate,
It is a habit, for some reason when I’m around Aussies I start to speak with a twang, Maaaate. So bare with me if you are on the receiving end of it.
Without blowing my own trumpet too much, how often do you see barrel shots from Jeffreys Bay, no not the ones you see all the time from the land but the water angle barrel shot. How often?? Tra la la la la la la laaaaa.
This was from yesterday afternoon when if they had their way contest organizers would have run Round 1, but I am gathering the locals said “We are having NONE of that”. Not sure why they objected it’s not like they got too many waves for themselves. Oh yes this is Kai Otton.
Today all of Round 1 was completed. I did shoot from the water and I did freeze my ass off, at least until it thawed out. Kelly Slater wore gloves during his heat, no the man is not a panzie, he is just a clever 8X World Champion with a 9th on the way!! If you want a good chuckle watch the video of Neco Padaratz demonstrating from the water to the judges how he got four barrels on his wave that only score 4 point something. In his fairness he did give me one of my good barrel shots for the day.
Round 2 will probably run tomorrow, today ‘cos I am sending this late and your reading it now. And then it could be a few lay days.
Until next time . . glove up.
Gooi Mora Mens (yes my afrikaans is atrocious)
As you can see Jeffreys Bay is firing right now, its windy and as cold as a polar bears bum but it is firing!!
I am ‘back on tour’ if you wish to put it that way. My last ASP event was Brasil, a good nine or ten months ago. Crumbs that is jonks weg. Anyway. . . .
I was in East London over the weekend for a good friends wedding, must say it was a good shindig and goes down in my history as the best wedding I’ve been to so far. Cheap, and I mean CHEAP Tequila, R10 (yes TEN RAND) a pop. Needless to say I was downing them like water to a drain along with other dance shoe inducing liquids. AND to top it all off I never woke with a hangover!! Good stuff I tell you.
Yesterday I decided it was time to head to the J of Bay. I banked on a four hour drive, had I factored in the road works and their stoppages I would have banked on a 5 hour drive. I will admit, back road freeways result in a heavy foot but this time it didn’t cost me R200 to get out of a R700 fine. Corrupt cops, love em or hate em but that is another story.
AND THEN I had no accommodation, but Jeffrey always delivers and I didn’t had to sleep in my car.
Today it is firing mate, and on last count there were only 9 guys in the water the rest are already froze, so I’m going for a surf.
TOODALOO
Howzit,
Borrowing from Will Smith and Vanilla Ice: “WILD WILD WEST JIM WEST DESPERADO AND ALL I HEARD WAS SHELLS FALLING TO THE CONCRETE STEEL FAST”.
Okay my hearing isn’t that good to hear the shells falling but it is good enough to have heard the 9 rounds being emptied into this vehicle. That’s what I heard while sitting at my desk and then 5 minutes later the hovering a police chopper above.
As the story goes, this car had been hijacked & then the occupants decided to break into a house or steal stuff from a house whose neighbors saw what was going on and called the cops. Then there was the off duty cop or something to that affect who lived in the area or was driving by and proceeded to take action. BANG BANG BANG . . . BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG . . . BANG BANG . . . . screeching of tires oops BANG.
That green roof is my aunts house, I live less than a kilometer away. Now on the other side of the building the car is resting against is another hill which she saw some guy come rolling down, stand up dazed and disappear into the night. I counted 7 bullet holes in the car. Again as the story goes 1 of the 4 was dead, 1 injured and 2 escaped. Bugger, they should all be dead!!
Yes welcome to Africa, but we are not the only country to have such wrong doings. Just watch those TV shows from the States with outrageous car chases. Hell one guy can murder his wife with all the evidence pointing towards him yet still gets off and then goes on to write a book saying how he would have done it if he had done it.
Oh and the waves have been cooking, finally.
Till next time . . . so much for ABS.
Howzit,
South Africa is truly buying into the touristic tag-line of “Deepest Darkest Africa”.
For those not in the know E’ish’Kom adopted a policy of “Load Shedding”, Some felt a bit of optimism and dubbed it “Power Sharing”. Me? I called it the case of idiots in charge of the light switch. Nothing like screwing up your job and still getting an 8 million rand bonus.
Where did our power go, sold to the neighboring countries. I can hear their cackles all the way to the shabeen “Eisha screw our people check all my zeros, bring on the eight hundred thousand quarts I can buy”. Quite funny how Black Label fits with the Black Outs.
Anyway . . last week E’ish”Kom decided to announce that all Load Shedding will cease immediately. My municipality must not have received the memo as my power went out today. Again before I could boil the kettle.
So I found something constructive to do with my time. I will admit I “borrowed” this idea, stole is such a strong word. I borrowed and improved because the version I saw was a good idea badly executed.
Howzit,
After a somewhat chilly evening on all Durban standards Gav thought it was time to ring the early bells this morning.
The Fruits of the Labor “Super Shack Gav”.
Just a little something something for those like myself who on many previous occasions have missed those sessions thanks to sleeping in or hungover (why is it called being hungover, where does that analogy come from. I will bring it to you next installment). I digress though, this is what you missed out on.
Till next time when petrol will cost R9.50 a liter . . . How much tea would a Totaller drink if a Tea Totaller drank tea?
** I’m not answering questions as to where this was.
Howzit,
Today the Goodwave ran, I wouldn’t say it was Goodwave quality but it was good never the less. Not many barrels going down, not many boards broken the wind messed up the afternoon session. My theory is to split the event over two days, make it “The 2 Day Goodwave”. Anyway, Shane Thorne pocketed R75 000 for his efforts. good on ya Shaneo.
This here is North Pier, the piers are fantastic when you’re feeling lazy or when there is a bit of size to it. But, and that is a big BUT, get your timing wrong and you will know all about it. I have done the walk of shame on numerous times and I have snapped a board before having even ridden a wave. Today was no exception. With the Lemmings stacked up some were left scratching their heads as to when is the right time. Sometimes there is no right time, you just take the plunge and paddle.
Until next time . . . hot coffee burns your tongue.
Howzit,
Picture it boys :
* A glorious sunny weekday, yes a Friday but still a glorious sunny weekday
* 7:30 AM
* Breezy offshore winds
* Warm water baggie surf
* 4-5ft high
* 4-5ft wide
You don't have to, I made a picture of it for you this morning.
Aloha,
Just as a wave develops from a pulse, an idea from the ocean it breaks, closes ending its journey my Hawaii 07/08 winter season has come to an end.
Pretty cheesy I know but nice analogy don’t you think.
Hawaii didn’t want to give me a nice going away pesent, instead I got blustering winds and rain squals but I wont let that rain on my parade.
I may not have sold as many images as I thought I would and my bank balance may be very flat but I will put this season down to learning many things. What I learnt about shooting from the water, positioning, fitness, awareness and how to find my happy place when the ocean is playing rag dolls with me would have taken years to accomplish in the waters of Durban.
Hawaii is still the proving ground and I know I can come back for the 08/09 season in 10 months knowing I have earnt a teaspoon of respect from the old dogs and won’t be the kid getting in the way.
Kathy, Scott, Murry, Brent & Shannon thank you once again for opening your house to my sandy feet and making me feel more welcome than I can put into words. Now Brent remember, I have two witnesses, you promised not to ride MY 6’6.
Australia here I come In 12 hours I will be Sydney bound.
Until tomorrow . . if it doesn’t fit, make it.
Mahalo
Aloha,
70% of my time is spent at the beach, in sand on sand around sand. Yet I can stand the stuff, it is one of my pet hates. And the sand in Hawaii comes with no exceptions, this stuff sticks like the proverbial sh!t to a blanket. I probably still have a grain from my first day in Hawaii, a whole 82 days ago, glued to some obscure place of my being. And whatever you do, DO NOT get it near my bed!
I may have arrived on this island 82 days ago but I can remember it like yesterday. With Gav at the airport cracking a beer “Welcome to Hawaii Brudda”. But don’t get me mistaken I am ready to leave. What, leave Hawaii, but it’s paradise. All things I’ve had work their way into my ears. Yes folks one can get tired of paradise. What is that noise, oh yes it’s rain again, the tropics come with a love hate relationship.
Tomorrow I spend packing after I spend most of the day procrastinating about packing. Again I will talk to my belongings and the extra 20 kilos of doodads I must convice the airport authorities are mere figments of their scales imagination and again I will be the packing guru.
Today I went to a sinful place, so bad yet oh so good. The Apple Store. One times iPhone on its’ way to South Africa but alas it is not for me. Come the end of 2008 I will have one though. Oh yes I will.
Until tomorrow . . . After Teds‘ Bakery is done and dusted for one more season, don’t argue, you know you wanna.
Mahalo
Aloha,
Pay back’s a female dog, unless your on the other end. Recover fifteen thoushand files, know how to fix a faulty camera, setup FTP and change the res of an image and you too will get ribs n mash at Lei Leis.
Who knew my computer geek skills would come to use one day after ditching that career.
Laying down on the job is a perk common to the street worker but I took my lazy photographer to another level by literally laying down. You see I felt like getting something different, a little sand on the bottom of the frame but all the early season banks have been washed away. So there I was twiddling my toes in the sand getting the job done.
Matt “Terry” Bromley bottoming into a sand dredger.
Until tomorrow . . Yes it is infact ESkom who cuts the electricity, but TELkom is also run by the govt. so whats the diff.
Mahalo
Aloha,
A rather ominous looking North Shore isn’t it.
Woke up this morning because I didn’t hear any wind. It was so quiet I actually got out of bed to check the shoreline palm trees from my bathroom window. They where gingerly flapping in the breeze. Had some breakfast, had some tea and woosh the wind slipped in just as easy as Telkom slips the electricity out.
I seem to have a beacon on me which indicates the skys to open. I go outside it pours, I go inside it stops. Needless to say I didn’t stay too dry on my first shooting expedition so I gave up.
Sixty dollars for a snapped nose repair, and a very ugly repair at that. That is cheap apparently. But I never paid for the board in the first place so I can’t complain too much.
Hopefull tomorrow I will actually get in the water but alas not with my new full frame fisheye. Need to manufacture a new port for that. Another reason I can’t wait to get home.
4 sleeps till Kangaroo burgers.
Until tomorrow . . . GET THE GUN.
Mahalo
Aloha,
I am not a member of the community but I cab still question the logic of the North Shore Council. If there is no alternate parking why stop motorists from using what limited areas are available.
Along the Kam Highway, from the point where the Sunset Beach parking commences to just after the entrance to The Banzai Pipeline / Ehukai Beach Park parking lot ends I counted 32 of these No Parking signs which were secretly errected overnight some time last week. I understand the ground is being ruined by cars driving in and out of the mud. But that is the councils own fault. Instead of wasting money on these signs, 90% of which have already been tagged by Banzai Sushi, invest the money which you spent on the blasted things and the money you will be using to create employment for the “Anti-Graffiti” cleaner uppers, yes they do exist, and spend it on a proper drainage system. Rain is one of the cons of living in a tropical climate so come up with a long term solution rather than a quickfix.
You want “those damn” tourists to come spend their money but then you also want to fleece them with parking violations.
I was Barbeque King tonight, Braai Master for the unknown, with some home made pattys. The secret is . . then it wouldn’t be a secret. They were super I tell you!
Until tomorrow . . who is going to be the only photog in South Africa with full frame digital in the water . . ME!!
Mahalo
