Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Postcards from Hawaii : 240108


Aloha,

Welcome to the basement of my office. I got the focus thing correct this time.

This is the section of reef midway between Backdoor & Off The Wall. Today was small by all stds, not even normal world measurements would make it sound decent. Hence it looks peaceful calm even inviting. Even the fish found time to bask in the sun.

Increase the swell by just 5 feet and this is not the place you want to be near, not that you can help it when you are floating a mere 6ft above the solidified lava. Thankfully no lives have been claimed by the reef this year but there have been the fair share head meets rock occasions. On one such event Sacha & friends had to paddle a victim in, all while his scalp flapped open.

By tomorrow afternoon we shall be seeing some action again, until then I will be avoiding the cash registers of the Apple store. My new manta is “I don’t need a new iPod I don’t need a new iPod”.

The Monster Energy Pipeline Pro begins on Saturday but you wouldn’t think so due to the lack of some normally ever present scaffolding. Maybe that is due to the 3 star downgrade.

Also looks like I wont be working it, cool ‘cos it gives me more time to shoot OTW when it’s on. And oh yes it will be on.

Until tomorrow . . anyone for a game of chess?

Mahalo

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