Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Postcards from Hawaii : 260108


Aloha,

Such a regular am I at the Foodland that I have been given the proper Maka’i. No longer will I be shamed by the paper card, I have PLASTIC!

Anyway so much for the bump in wave size today. It remained small and not so shootable. I tried to shoot but gave up after a short while. The contest has been put on alert for a possible 8am start, they must know something we don’t. Or they have their fingers crossed the swell pulls finger and rolls snake eyes.

This is from the last mackalacking day at Pipe. One times bodyboarder about to go for the spin cycle. I actually heard the slap when he hit the water. We all thought he was dead when his board came up without him. A few worrysome seconds later he came up hooting and hollering with sheer joy and a grin the Chesire would be proud to sport..

Until tomorrow . . when in doubt get honey bbq sauce, its good.

Mahalo

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