Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Postcards from Hawaii : 090108


Aloha,

This is what I came here for, this is what you spend 48 hours travelling for. THIS is what the North Shore Pilgrimage is all about. Today, for a few hours, the Banzai Pipeline was absolute perfection. The swell came together, the winds were in a good mood and Da Hui held their Backdoor Shootout.

Funny thing isn’t it. The Pipemasters runs mostly at Backdoor while the Backdoor Shootout runs at Pipe. Go figure!

Why weren’t you in the water I hear you say. Well I was, at least I tried. I tried and the ocean spat me out to perform the Walk of Shame. I swam, attempted to swim, out from infront of Pipe but ended up way past Ehukai Beach Park and near Rocky Rights all within 5 seconds. I timed it completely wrong, completely. I hung my head in shame, walked back kicking the sand sat down and contemplated it again. There were a few occasions had a I become Aqua Man I could have made it out but I paid heed to the spooky feeling I had all morning admitted defeat and shot from the land. Had I not you wouldn’t be seeing this perfect lineup.

Until tomorrow . . an alarm clock means get out of bed.

Mahalo

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