Aloha,
30 grams short of 1 kay gee of chocolate for 8 dollars. Gotta love the Makai card and it’s specials. 10 rolls of Rolos for 4 dollars. 10 packets of Whoppers for 4 dollars. My sugar kick is sorted for the next week, ok ok two weeks.
Now I didn’t want to do this but Chad gets to be the first “Triple Crown of Postcards” winner. He has a big mouth attached to his five foot and a ticky frame, but he also has a big pair of hairy donkey testicles to back it up. All five foot and a ticky of him surfing 12-15ft Pipe with three other people out. At one point everyone got out and he had Pipe to himself for a few minutes. AND the people on the beach cheered every ride.
Imagine pulling off one of the biggest waves of your life to look back and see another behemoth bearing down on you. He was very angry when I told him the barrel he was claiming was nothing more than a pinching lip. He was out there and I wasn’t so fair play.
Waimea shone in the full spector of glory aswell. I was going to swim out and bob in the channel to get some water content but Chad managed to convince me otherwise, so yet again I cannot bring you a water view. I am glad to note that I was not the only “Walker of Shame”. I wintessed first hand a number of people falling foul to the rip current protecting Pipe like a moat to the Kings mistress. One of them was even a fellow photographer.
Some people are making a call for the Eddie on Monday. Unlike what I have dubbed “Third Reef Thursday” tomorrow is going to be smaller and cleaner and dropping until Sunday morning when it is mackalacking again. I would love to see the Eddie, but I don’t think Eddie will go.
Until tomorrow . . . can you overdose on stale chocolate?
Mahalo
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